Hey Kyle, I'll go ahead and say that that's not the same noise I have. But it's an easy check. Just a few things to get out of the way and the valve cover comes off.

To my ears (listening to a video on YouTube with my phone, mind you) it almost sounds like detonation (knocking, pinging). I don't have experience with that sound though, but it does sound like a diesel. I could be way off though. Maybe others will chime in.

 

Ended up going with the 4 piece front end kit from Engnbldr.com. In emailing back and forth the guy seems like a straight shooter with good quality parts. Can't beat that.

 

Just got the whole kit. Really good quality stuff it seems. Quick shipping and I like that there's a paper included with some other assembly info which says to call or email if I have questions. People who stand by their products is an important thing and something I really look for.

Will be doing this job this coming weekend. Will update with more info as it goes along.

 

I have today and tomorrow off as well and the weekend so I can get this thing done. Started yesterday late afternoon. Attached are some pictures of the rotted out frame piece under the front bumper (maybe I'll weld a new piece on), my coolant (which I'm going flush the bejesus out of and fill it with Toyota Red) and where I left off yesterday. So far so good.

I thought I had a manual but I must have given it to the guy who bought my truck earlier this year, crap! I'm looking for a manual online and I think I have one but it's just a bunch of folders with separate PDFs. I'm looking for a single PDF of a scanned Clymer, Hanes or Toyota manual that I can put on my phone. Does this exist anywhere? The one I downloaded: here

I would totally buy one but I won't be able to get it by this weekend.

Thanks!

 

This might help someone else to find TDC for cylinder 1. Cylinder 1 (cylinder closest to radiator) rockers should be loose. I also marked the rotor and distributor housing. Also, not sure if this helps, but I also scribed a mark on the distributor housing and the head. You can see the line on the head that points to the sticker on the distributor housing. I scribed a little mark right there.

 

Starter bump method of the crank pulley bolt. Beautiful. Truly beautiful.


I just put the breaker bar on and bungee it to the frame rail so it won't go smacking against it.

 

that frame looks hammered from rust.

 

That part, yeah. But so far that's the only place that seems to be bad.

 

Is there a way I can edit the title of the thread? I want to be more specific now that this is turning into a timing chain guide replacement thread. I can't find any way to change it. Maybe a moderator can advise? Or maybe just add "Timing Chain Guide Replacement" to it or something.

For this job I'm following this link from 4crawler.com: 22R/RE/REC/RET Timing Chain Replacement Instructions but on step 59 it says, "Install with engine at TDC for a 22R or 5° BTDC for a 22RE/REC/RET
Set the distributor at the 12 o-clock position
Upon insertion, it'll turn ~35° CCW and the timing will be close On my 22re motor, why do I need to rotate the engine to 5° BTDC? Can't I just keep everything as is like my previous three grouped picture and then just fine tune timing with a strobe? I'm thinking I want to install the distributor in the same position I removed it. Please clarify!

 

Damn this oil pan was a pain! I know some people raise the motor, or remove the front differential but I didn't. All I did was remove the front cross brace and lower the diff. Pain to remove the oil pan and also a pain to get it on. What makes it a pain is having to maneuver the oil pan up into place with the oil pickup halfway bolted down but then bolting it the rest of the way while keeping the pan suspended but without scraping off the newly applied FIPG or contaminating the sealing surfaces with grease or dirt. I was swearing a lot and there were kids playing next door.

BUUUTT, I figured out a way to easily install the oil pan after the oil pickup is fully bolted down to the block. By the way, this is just a factory raised 4x4. I noticed that the oil pickup hits the oil pan only on the rear of the splash baffle. All I did was use my angle grinder to grind away part of the baffle. That gives you the clearance to install the oil pan without ruining your gasket surfaces.

I installed the oil pan from the back. Under the sway bar and over the driver side axle. Since I lowered the sway bar by removing the sway bar mounts to lower the diff more it scraped off a little bit of the FIPG on the back of the oil pan. I just rested it there for a minute while I reapplied that area. You can see from the picture what I'm talking about.

Hope that helps someone down the road.

 

Just a final update. I think the truck is good to go. No leaks and it's now performing normally. Still kind of loud engine noise but zero of that same cam chain noise. I think these motors are just noisy so I'm not concerned. Maybe I'll adjust tappet clearance soon to see if that does anything. Do you always have to replace the gasket even if it's only about a month old?

 

You got it, it's the timing chain. I had the same noise on my 93 4x4 22RE and the driver's side guide was broken and pieces ended up in the timing chain area and in the oil pan. Funny though the passenger's side guide look unscathed, almost brand new. Thanks very much for the step by step post.

 

No problem. I have more of the sequence in my head if you have any questions. The passenger side guides usually are fine. I replaced mine with another plastic guide.