93 toyota pickup 4x4 front axel cv swap
08-14-2012, 05:51 PM
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93 toyota pickup 4x4 front axel cv swap
This past Saturday I decided to swap out my front half axles on the truck, the CV boots have been torn for several months, I really can't complain as they are the original ones!
I took a few pics and please provide some feedback as I am a only a weekend mechanic. (I did have 2 questions along the way, I'll put them in red below.)
1) Remove the tire and jack up the front of your truck. I used two 3 ton jack stands on each side of the front of the truck
2) Shot with the first tire off...
3) I removed the bolts that hold on the locking hub assembly.
4) Removed the one bolt there in the middle, not sure if it has a name but seems to hold a few things in place.
5) I used a small ball ping hammer to tap around the housing, it was the only way to shake the cone washers loose. I wouldn't think this is the preferred method, I did leave the nuts on there so I wouldn't loose them, they do seem to fly. If anybody has a trick to remove these let me know.
6) Removed hub assembly and used snap ring tool to remove the ring.
7) I used a large flathead screw driver and hammer to loosen the large axle nut. They were both snug but not tight. As I understand the spacer thing with the tabs is used in between the 2 nuts to lock or prevent the 3 from moving. Is there a general check for this? Can they work loose?
8) Using a box wrench (19 mm i think) and a breaker bar on the front I was able to crack these off with very little problem. I read the horror stories about these bolts and I don't have pneumatic tools so I didn't know what to expect. Taking my time and applying good even pressure did the trick.
9) At first I wasted an hour trying to pull the axle through the lower control arm. After I was abit frustrated I realized it was only 2 bolts to lower the control arm, so common sense kicked in.
10) Once LCA was free the axle was able to slide out. It didn't fall out, I had to play with the boot / knuckle position but once fully compressed there was just enough room to come out. When removing the LCA bolts I had to remove this long bolt here to the left. It was vertical and connected to what I think was the sway bar. The rubber grommets were in real bad shape, what exactly does the bolt / sway bar do for the suspension ?
11) Here is a shot with the LCA loose from the other part of the suspension
12) Old Boot and new boot
13) Don't forget about lunch...
14) Re install axle, and do the reverse order...
15) If needed, do the other ! As you can see the driver side was worse as both boots were torn not just the inner.
I started this @ 7 AM Saturday morning and didn't finish until 6 PM. This was my first boot / axle change and never had the hub assembly torn down. In fact all I have ever touched were brake pads. The driver side (second axle) took 2 less hours as I learned from the first. I was reviewing the FSM and I didn't realize I was that close to the bearings. I will check them in the fall when it cools off, as it was it was 104 and did this in the driveway in the Texas sun...
Any thoughts or feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I took a few pics and please provide some feedback as I am a only a weekend mechanic. (I did have 2 questions along the way, I'll put them in red below.)
1) Remove the tire and jack up the front of your truck. I used two 3 ton jack stands on each side of the front of the truck
2) Shot with the first tire off...
3) I removed the bolts that hold on the locking hub assembly.
4) Removed the one bolt there in the middle, not sure if it has a name but seems to hold a few things in place.
5) I used a small ball ping hammer to tap around the housing, it was the only way to shake the cone washers loose. I wouldn't think this is the preferred method, I did leave the nuts on there so I wouldn't loose them, they do seem to fly. If anybody has a trick to remove these let me know.
6) Removed hub assembly and used snap ring tool to remove the ring.
7) I used a large flathead screw driver and hammer to loosen the large axle nut. They were both snug but not tight. As I understand the spacer thing with the tabs is used in between the 2 nuts to lock or prevent the 3 from moving. Is there a general check for this? Can they work loose?
8) Using a box wrench (19 mm i think) and a breaker bar on the front I was able to crack these off with very little problem. I read the horror stories about these bolts and I don't have pneumatic tools so I didn't know what to expect. Taking my time and applying good even pressure did the trick.
9) At first I wasted an hour trying to pull the axle through the lower control arm. After I was abit frustrated I realized it was only 2 bolts to lower the control arm, so common sense kicked in.
10) Once LCA was free the axle was able to slide out. It didn't fall out, I had to play with the boot / knuckle position but once fully compressed there was just enough room to come out. When removing the LCA bolts I had to remove this long bolt here to the left. It was vertical and connected to what I think was the sway bar. The rubber grommets were in real bad shape, what exactly does the bolt / sway bar do for the suspension ?
11) Here is a shot with the LCA loose from the other part of the suspension
12) Old Boot and new boot
13) Don't forget about lunch...
14) Re install axle, and do the reverse order...
15) If needed, do the other ! As you can see the driver side was worse as both boots were torn not just the inner.
I started this @ 7 AM Saturday morning and didn't finish until 6 PM. This was my first boot / axle change and never had the hub assembly torn down. In fact all I have ever touched were brake pads. The driver side (second axle) took 2 less hours as I learned from the first. I was reviewing the FSM and I didn't realize I was that close to the bearings. I will check them in the fall when it cools off, as it was it was 104 and did this in the driveway in the Texas sun...
Any thoughts or feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by wescx005; 10-07-2012 at 05:01 AM.
08-14-2012, 08:40 PM
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"9) At first I wasted an hour trying to pull the axle through the lower control arm. After I was abit frustrated I realized it was only 2 bolts to lower the control arm, so common sense kicked in."
You need to compress the suspension as though it were sitting on the wheels (I use a jack under the rotor). Then the half-shaft will come right out, without removing the lower control arm, or the shocks, or the ball joints, or any other major surgery. Alas, the FSM isn't real clear on that point.
Don't forget that you now need to have the alignment done, since you loosened the bolts holding the lower control arm.
You need to compress the suspension as though it were sitting on the wheels (I use a jack under the rotor). Then the half-shaft will come right out, without removing the lower control arm, or the shocks, or the ball joints, or any other major surgery. Alas, the FSM isn't real clear on that point.
Don't forget that you now need to have the alignment done, since you loosened the bolts holding the lower control arm.
08-15-2012, 06:15 AM
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"You need to compress the suspension as though it were sitting on the wheels (I use a jack under the rotor). Then the half-shaft will come right out, without removing the lower control arm, or the shocks, or the ball joints, or any other major surgery. Alas, the FSM isn't real clear on that point.
Ok, this makes more sense. I will remember for next time...
Don't forget that you now need to have the alignment done, since you loosened the bolts holding the lower control arm. "
Yes, I was wondering why my steering wheel was alittle out of whack, also on step 10 the picture with the long bolt with several rubber washers. Is there a specific name for the rubber peices ? I took them off and they were in real bad shape. You mentioned this was connected to the lower control arm. I was ging to run by Auto zone to see if they had any in a bulk bag or something.
Ok, this makes more sense. I will remember for next time...
Don't forget that you now need to have the alignment done, since you loosened the bolts holding the lower control arm. "
Yes, I was wondering why my steering wheel was alittle out of whack, also on step 10 the picture with the long bolt with several rubber washers. Is there a specific name for the rubber peices ? I took them off and they were in real bad shape. You mentioned this was connected to the lower control arm. I was ging to run by Auto zone to see if they had any in a bulk bag or something.
Last edited by wescx005; 08-15-2012 at 06:19 AM.
08-15-2012, 06:33 AM
#5
it's for the sway bar. it inhibits body-roll while cornering. i took mine off years ago (the whole bar) and it rides a bit smoother. another benefit is added flex. some people like to keep them on for safety, which is fine and all, but i've never encountered a situation where i've thought, "gee, if only i had a sway bar..."
08-15-2012, 08:45 AM
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"but i've never encountered a situation where i've thought, "gee, if only i had a sway bar..."
Very true. I will have to play around with that. I may remove to see how truck feels.
"I thought they only drank Alamo beer in Texas. "
I think we drink anything in Texas...
Very true. I will have to play around with that. I may remove to see how truck feels.
"I thought they only drank Alamo beer in Texas. "
I think we drink anything in Texas...
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08-15-2012, 09:27 AM
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Get the whole kit. If the rubber is bad, it is likely the metal spacers are dinged up too. ($4 each x2 -- you can cover it.)
08-18-2012, 07:18 PM
#9
Hope you marked the camber settings before you removed the bolts holding the lower control arm to the frame. Those bolts attach the LCA to the frame and also set the camber. Looks like you were lucky to get the bolts out. Many times they are seized in the LCA bushing and can't be removed.
If I can't compress the suspension enough I prefer to separate or remove the lower ball joint. Saves having to get a re-alignment when done. Just sayin...
If I can't compress the suspension enough I prefer to separate or remove the lower ball joint. Saves having to get a re-alignment when done. Just sayin...
08-19-2012, 10:22 AM
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Just accomplished this feat myself, removing the drivers side shaft, don't have the new unit yet. One little tear in the outer boot was enough to fail safety inspection.
It went really well until it slid back against the shock and sway bar assembly, then there was alot of cursing, wiggling, etc and an hour or so, before removing the sway bar bracket from the frame, a little pry bar here and there and finally it popped out. The sway bar bolt is seized in the sleeve, that will be for another day.
Just proves even a woman can do this. One step closer to getting my ride on the road!
It went really well until it slid back against the shock and sway bar assembly, then there was alot of cursing, wiggling, etc and an hour or so, before removing the sway bar bracket from the frame, a little pry bar here and there and finally it popped out. The sway bar bolt is seized in the sleeve, that will be for another day.
Just proves even a woman can do this. One step closer to getting my ride on the road!
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