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Aloha Everyone,
I have read through the CV axle replacement threads and am still stuck. The diff side of the old cv axle keeps rotating even with the brakes pressed and I can't get the bolts to loosen. I have an impact wrench but it still isn't getting the job done. The CV axle on the hub side is completely disconnected/broke. Can anyone help me? Mahalo in advance
Hold on to the back side with a17mm wrench, or jam it in place with a long screwdriver. If you have the time, press out the bolts from the flange and grind off the ribs so you can take the bolts all the way out, makes removal of the axle way easier
I have the diff side of the cv axle fixed now. I put it in 4L and have my buddy hold the brake down. Still can't get the bolts to move. Stuck on there good.
I have the diff side of the cv axle fixed now. I put it in 4L and have my buddy hold the brake down. Still can't get the bolts to move. Stuck on there good.
"fixed" as in not moving? Those bolts can be on there pretty tight. Give them a good soak in penetrant and jack up the truck more so you can have room for plenty of leverage. First time I took mine off they were a pain but they'll break with enough persuasion
"fixed" as in not moving? Those bolts can be on there pretty tight. Give them a good soak in penetrant and jack up the truck more so you can have room for plenty of leverage. First time I took mine off they were a pain but they'll break with enough persuasion
Torch to the rescue, got the diff side nuts off, got the cv axle out (it was broken at the joint inside the wheel hub), now trying to figure out how to get the new cv axle in. I did not remove the hub. Trying not to if i don't have to.
Pressing out the studs and grinding the ribs down so they're pretty much just regular bolts makes it 10x easier. That extra inch of room once the studs aren't in the way makes a huge difference.
Pressing out the studs and grinding the ribs down so they're pretty much just regular bolts makes it 10x easier. That extra inch of room once the studs aren't in the way makes a huge difference.
How do i press them out? I don't know how to grind the ribs out either. I see how that will make a big difference but am not sure how to do all that.
Don't press out the bolts! They are shoulder bolts, with a diameter carefully matched to the holes in the flange. You can't (successfully) replace them with hardware-store bolts.
The "secret" to removing (and installing) the half-shafts is to compress the suspension, as though the truck were sitting on its wheels. If the hubs are just dangling, the angle is wrong, and you'll never get the half-shafts in. I hold the truck with jack stands under the frame, and then lift the hub with a jack until the weight just starts to come off the jack stand. Then the half-shafts will slide in very easily.
I think the occasional suggestion to grind off the bolts comes from those who don't know the "secret," get frustrated, and take a BFH to their truck. It's your truck, you can do that if you want, but you don't need to.
Don't press out the bolts! They are shoulder bolts, with a diameter carefully matched to the holes in the flange. You can't (successfully) replace them with hardware-store bolts.
The "secret" to removing (and installing) the half-shafts is to compress the suspension, as though the truck were sitting on its wheels. If the hubs are just dangling, the angle is wrong, and you'll never get the half-shafts in. I hold the truck with jack stands under the frame, and then lift the hub with a jack until the weight just starts to come off the jack stand. Then the half-shafts will slide in very easily.
I think the occasional suggestion to grind off the bolts comes from those who don't know the "secret," get frustrated, and take a BFH to their truck. It's your truck, you can do that if you want, but you don't need to.
I have tried this and the half shaft will not go in. I bring it up spline side first through the a gap in the lower control arm and get the spindle into the hub but the diff side of the half shaft does not clear the bolts. Please help I've been working on this for 8 hours already.
Edit: by try this, I mean i put the jack next to the castle nut on the lower control arm, raise it up almost horizontal and the half shaft still does not slip in.
Don't press out the bolts! They are shoulder bolts, with a diameter carefully matched to the holes in the flange. You can't (successfully) replace them with hardware-store bolts.
The "secret" to removing (and installing) the half-shafts is to compress the suspension, as though the truck were sitting on its wheels. If the hubs are just dangling, the angle is wrong, and you'll never get the half-shafts in. I hold the truck with jack stands under the frame, and then lift the hub with a jack until the weight just starts to come off the jack stand. Then the half-shafts will slide in very easily.
I think the occasional suggestion to grind off the bolts comes from those who don't know the "secret," get frustrated, and take a BFH to their truck. It's your truck, you can do that if you want, but you don't need to.
Got it in. Mahalo nui everyone for helping. Scope103 nailed it. Just had to fiddle with the height of the lower control arm and it went right in. 12 hour lesson today. Will go much quicker when i do the passenger side.
Last edited by surf4life; Aug 31, 2020 at 01:44 AM.
Can you describe the "fiddle"? Some on this forum have actually slightly lifted the opposite corner, in order to get a tiny bit more compression on the corner with the half-shaft.
I made this note when I did CV on my '91 Toyota 4x4. I strayed from instructions in Toyota repair manual. Note that "wiggle room" is our northern version of how you say "fiddle" On the tulip you want to turn the nuts as the bolts are pressed in. Hope this helps someone
Sigh ... Allowing the "rotor to drop" is exactly what you don't want to do. That's why you ended up taking the ball joint off.
Do this job however you fancy, just know that you don't have to remove the ball joints or the differential studs or anything but the out-board c-clip and the nuts holding the tulip to the differential flange. Compress the front suspension and you can pull the half-shaft right out.
Sigh ... Allowing the "rotor to drop" is exactly what you don't want to do. That's why you ended up taking the ball joint off.
Do this job however you fancy, just know that you don't have to remove the ball joints or the differential studs or anything but the out-board c-clip and the nuts holding the tulip to the differential flange. Compress the front suspension and you can pull the half-shaft right out.
Exactly, and in response to your other post, I used a secondary floor jack to raise the lower control arm up to almost the horizontal position in order to wrangle the half shaft in there spindle side first (see pics above). I placed the jack just inside the castle nut to the ball joint and raised it up and lowered it, raised it...had to find the sweet spot to get it in there.
Aug 30, 2020 | 04:06 PM
