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92 TOY's 22re / crapped out / gotta start somewhere / thread

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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 11:55 AM
  #1541  
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I just readjusted the valves I didn't replace the screws and the old nuts work just fine.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 12:51 PM
  #1542  
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when I did my rebuild Todd had mentioned if you can see the hourglass shaped markings on the screws to replace them and only with dealer parts not aftermarket. I opted to do that and replace the nuts as well. cheap insurance for the new head/valves and cam. In retro spec I wish I had bought a whole new rocker assembly including the upgraded oiling style shafts.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 02:27 PM
  #1543  
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done for today....

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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #1544  
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I replaced my screws. Ditto on wishing for a whole new rocker assembly, but they are pricey. I think Putney's was selling them for around $200. That was reconditioned Toyota rockers and the upgraded shafts.

Here's the wear pattern on an old screw.


Last edited by flyingbrass; Mar 25, 2010 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #1545  
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WOW that thing is gorgeous!!
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 02:39 PM
  #1546  
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
done for today....


Looking good Buddy!
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 02:48 PM
  #1547  
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
question on the valve cleaning thing.......

1 valve at a time eh?? or do I take them all out and clean everything and them put them back. I'm guess either way is fine, just have to keep one million parts in order.

suggestions .......


Oh and a shopping list.....

valve spring compressor thingamajig..
magnet thingy
very small bottle brush thing for cleaning the passages (see i was reading the FSM)



One valve at a time, for ease of rememberance. YAY!!!!
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 02:50 PM
  #1548  
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Originally Posted by yotarob2005
Save your 50 bucks because even if you did buy new ones you would still have to lap them for the sake of the valve seats matching the new valves just right.
Actually... you would have to have them cut and seated, not just lap them. That would be a machine shop job, around 250$...
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 02:57 PM
  #1549  
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Ok , so consensus is keep the valves, don't get new ones but DO get new screws??
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 02:59 PM
  #1550  
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thanks for the compliments guys.

did anyone see the head bolt wedge job?(hiding at the driver's side guide)

on the 2 water tubes that are on either side of the top of the timing cover, do you use a gasket there?

the timing cover gasket was actually itself a gasket for those....I'm just wondering if there was or is supposed to be anything else there.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 03:01 PM
  #1551  
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10mm bolts (not head size) are 29ft/lbs

8mm bolts are 9 ft/lbs

the passenger's side water tube I used 9 ft/lbs on as well.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 04:31 PM
  #1552  
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Love the look its almost over just think of that!
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 04:49 PM
  #1553  
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thanks man.

yeas, i'm at the point where I am reading and re-reading everything, hoping and praying not to have to un-do or re-do anything.

currently i'm worried about placing the head on and not being able to get the chain on it.....guess i'll have to wait and see/
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 05:00 PM
  #1554  
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
when I did my rebuild Todd had mentioned if you can see the hourglass shaped markings on the screws to replace them and only with dealer parts not aftermarket. I opted to do that and replace the nuts as well. cheap insurance for the new head/valves and cam. In retro spec I wish I had bought a whole new rocker assembly including the upgraded oiling style shafts.

I'm not finding that stuff on the dealer site.

where did you get your's from?
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 05:24 PM
  #1555  
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Yea but at least you have torn through it and have seen all the pieces fall apart. So if anything it should be a matter of looking at the pizza boxes and going slow to read and remember what each note means. Its straight forward! and just think, you get to drive it soon!
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 05:51 PM
  #1556  
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I don't know if you really need new adjusting screws. I used a new head and wanted fresh ones to ride against the new valves.

Adjusting screws are 90913-05019. I got mine from 1sttoyotaparts, but they may be cheaper elsewhere if that's all you're ordering. Shipping is 10% of the order cost or $10 minimum.

I reused my old nuts, but if you want new: 90179-08049.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 05:56 PM
  #1557  
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thanks CS..

Flying...thanks for the part #'s...we will see.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 08:12 PM
  #1558  
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92 Toy, I was reading rogermans rebuild and noticed you helped him out quite a bit. You come along way, I remember when you started on yours. Hang in there.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 09:43 PM
  #1559  
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
BINGO...

that's the part that has had me sick since last week. when I "pryed" it off and then put it back together, it did not seat flush again....half of my brain thought the head bolts would snug it down, the other half thought it would falsify a torque reading....so in that respect, I am glad i will be doing this little "side project"....how many of those have there been?????
Are you planning to take the rocker assembly apart and clean it out? If so, buy an impact driver. I bought one at Autozone for $10. IIRC, a #3 Phillips bit is the one needed to take out the 3 screws. Also, give the screws a decent smack to tighten when putting it back together. Here's a video from Putney's: http://www.youtube.com/user/putneysc...12/9Yr3-iBAtf8

Keep everything in order. Put it all back the way it was.

Check out Putney's other videos. I see they have added more since I last checked. The ring and piston installation ones almost made me sick. What that guy did in a few minutes took me hours. But, a big part of doing projects ourselves is to learn. Crawl, walk, run...
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 05:52 AM
  #1560  
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I saw that timing cover on and installed and it brought a little tear to me eye. Well done!!!
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