such a rogue problem! much better now after re-routing/insulating wiring from ignitor where it was touching the valve cover. but still with the rogue stall! worst thing is that it most often chooses to do so leaving stoplight clutch about half-way out. people are already laughing at the beat up, too-loud-to-not-be-a-complete-redneck beast, and laugh harder when it looks like I dont even know how to drive a 5-speed lol

when the issue was really bad, like when it wouldn't run for more than a few minutes, i would tape my timing light on and "watch" for missfires. the light would blink steady until my truck died and motor stopped turning COMPLETELY. no IGf to ecu 6-8 times causes fuel cut i believe. EFI IS KILLING MY TRUCK! someone please send me a carbeurator!

it does do it occasionaly at speed, accompanied by the "somethings wrong" light for the duration of the bucking.

at this point, im stuck on the idea that the government gave it a virus at the last smog-check so i will buy a new truck. my electronics are attacking my motor. my motor is wreaking havoc on the rest of the drive-train. and i am about to wreak havoc on the old beast that i got to know so well that has now COMPLETELY stumped me

 

what do i have to do to get one of those awesome smart guys that have staff/moderator in their avatar to post on here. should i have titled this wrong?

 

Its such an awkward/ random one its hard to give a positive answer, I'd try to replicate the problem. Which youve probably already tried to do but you have to, to get anwhere with it

 

i agree and thanks for the post. i just dont know. . . . . . its always intermitantly done this for the 2-3 years i've had this. it got much worse (happened more often) after cat replacement? sounds waaaaayyyyy too stupid to even make sense. but now that i put it in writing. . . . . . . shoot leme see what wiring is above that thing maybe something got burn't and itermitently grounds out, hahahahaha too off the wall to not be possible

 

trying my SECOND junkyard ignitor tomorow. if not that, then ecu, if not that, WHO WANTS A PARTS TRUCK?

 

ignitor?

there has to be a loose wire/bad connection somewhere

 

EXACTLY what I was thinking...

 

You've got an old wire shorting out somewhere.

:wabbit2:

 

I agree with Waskilly. I had a similar situation. Got to start chasing each wire at a time. Its not the funnest thing but something you have to do and it wont be much of a break.

You might could just move the wires around and see the problem somewhat goes away if it rubbing on body. If it rubbing another wire, it wont go away til fixed.

 

i would love to and thanx for the posts guys. thats what im thinking. . . . . however, what is the best way to re-wrap when im done? im scared because i know i cant duplicate the shielding that makes up the factory looms. . . .specifically that tacky tar stuff they used. any ideas? haha seal-tite flex conduit (black, non metalic) came to mind lol

 

also, since im getting code 14, does that limit my problem to the IGf wire? or could it be any ground, connector, wire, fart, sneeze, etc?

 

ok. removed upper intake (for the thousanth time since i've had the truck) and started checkin stuff out.

possible culprit one: GREEN wire at BLACK sensor at front of lower intake man. (coolant temp to guage? to ecm? cold-start injector switch?) some conductor showing right at plug, tough to fix. i dont think that wire would have near enough voltage to arc to ground anyway. nor do i see a short in that circuit KILLING the truck

possible culprit two: on top of pass. fender, underneath all other wires, is a splice with 3 2-CONDUCTOR WIRES. outer shields are 2 grey, 1 black/white. the outer conductors are spliced and wraped but had a teeny tiny bit of bare showing. inner-shieds are white for all three and splice very nicely. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THESE WIRES ARE FOR

possible culprit three: on a thread i found on here, it shows a ground bolting to the upper/lower intake mounting point. mine was on the fuel rail mounting point which i dont see to be a big deal because the bolts between all three parts SHOULD carry that current. whatcha think?

so, i guess the next job (while im there) would be to check all splices that happen to run on top of the intake. (fuel inj, grounds, those things on top of my valve cover, etc) but i happen to think that nasty tar-stuff they used factory at splices is very important and have no idea what it is. and more importantly, what kind of solvent would work well to remove it without compromising insulation. any ideas? WD40?

im mostly interested in this area because there is obvious wear on the fuel rail and lower intake where this loom apparently rides. and in my experienc, aluminum eats insulation before insulation eats aluminum

 

Did you think about testing your battery?

 

pics? can you solder GOOD?

and tear the loom apart! your gonna need this stuff:
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-roll...tape-6047.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...rap-66985.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...rap-66986.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...rap-66987.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-fl-oz...ape-36821.html

 

91muddog, you the man! thank you. and you know what, people talk crap about harbor freight, but as long as its not something my life depends on, (jacks, jackstands, chain-falls, come-alongs, etc) im game.

and can i solder? i solder pipe for a living lol. what kind do i use for electrical? and yes i know better than to do it with my bernzo-matic haha

 

alright fellers, think i fixed it (again). split harness from valve cover, between intakes, all the way to the firewall. found nothing other than previously mentioned

moved ground from fuel rail to intake adjoinment.

re-insulated like nobody's business. stole some awesome tape my bro uses at work. (high voltage, lineman/ sub-station builder guy). they have good tape lol

truck runs like a champ, only have a couple hours on her though. gunna take a drive to check snow level. that way i get a good moisture test to0 lol. and if it fails i guess im campin