The problem started last year...whenever the truck is under load like going up a hill or accelerating it seems to bog down and putter. Sometimes right around 50 mph it will shake the vehicle. I can mash down the gas pedal and 'force' it through the bogging but can't tell what is causing it.

Replaced vain air sensor in vain...lol No change. Wondering what else to try? I'm by no means an expert, just a guy trying to get his old farm truck working like it used to for the last 25 years.

It starts and runs like a champ...does not stall but sounds boggy when it has to work.

changed the fuel pump before changing the airflow sensor..now I'm just getting tired of throwing money at it.

 

Did you check the ignition timing?

 

Sorry to be an amateur...I've guess I've been spoiled by the truck working perfectly for 25 years never had to do anything other than change oil/brakes.

How would I check ignition timing Special tools? I can youtube just need to know what I'm getting in to. Is this something the average guy who can turn a wrench can do?

 

You don't even need a wrench (well, you will to ADJUST the timing). Just a $20 timing light. http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-t...ight-3343.html

You do need to put the truck into "base timing" mode. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/64tuneup.pdf (page 25) The "Special Service Tool" is a paperclip (at least, that's what all the cheap owners use).

This is by no means a guaranteed solution, but it is so easy and so basic it is always a good place to start.

 

Thanks for the replies!! @Scope Looking over the manual do I need a hookup tachy? Or is that a "preferred" way of doing it?

I should probably change the spark plugs etc as well??

 

a tach is "preffered way" but the range is 750-800 rpm, so you should be able to tell good enough on the factory tach. i would pull the plugs (make sure it's dead cold first) and read them. it's completely underestimated by so many what the plugs can tell you about what is going on with that cylinder.. it might simply just need a tune-up. these engines can go forever taken care of. mine is over 300k and very strong and fit for hard work. i had a 22r with over 450k still going strong in the rusted out body.

 

oh when you get on it and it's "boggy" is it a sputter, or smoothe hesitation?

 

Really more of a putter I can mash the gas pedal and force it through it. Sometimes it shudders the whole vehicle around 45-55 mph after 55 it seems fine.

I'm going to replace all the plugs wires distributor etc. Like I probably should have done in the first place.

 

yah, that indicates a rich condition, which could be worn plugs, corroded ign. parts, etc. i always go for the good ngk plugs, or denso irridiums if it's in the budget. stay away from champion and autolite. bosh platinum +2/+4 are a waste of money, but work okay.

 

Thanks!!

 

np. don't forget the "tune-up grease" silicone lube. it makes a huge difference around water.