Hi all,

91 22re M/T has an odd thing going on. The truck starts up an idles fine cold. Once driving the truck idle fine at red lights etc. The issue occurs after the trucks been fully warm driving 10 plus miles, shut it off to go into store for example. Once I come back out to start up it will fire up but the RPMs do not go up to a normal idle an the oil pressure is very low. It will idle rough like that until I tap the gas peddle an then it will come up to a semi normal idle.

I was thinking it may be a valve spec issue but I have not had a chance to check valves yet. I also wanted some opinions before I dove into that.

Also, the EGR and air injection have been deleted on this motor. Not my doing, was done when purchased. Have been thinking about putting it back on but the seller welded the exhaust port close. Not sure if this is playing a part or not.

thank you!

 

First thing I would try is do a thorough cleaning of the Throttle Body. Best way is to remove it to clean but you will need a multi-meter to set the TPS correctly, since that should be removed before using any chemicals on the TB. You will also need a new TB gasket.

 

Erratic throttle like this, mashing pedal fixes rpm, indicates a worn throttle body. You need to check the throttle plate returns to the same position and there is no play in the butterfly plate shaft.

Some of this maybe due to coking and build up around the plate but it could also.mean the shaft is worn out. You're going to need a machinist and new bushings for the shaft.. I don't recall of hand who has these, but once you need to machine the throttle body for a bushing they might as well make the bushing also. Expect 3-4 hours of machine time at $150-200 an hour. Or roll the dice on an used throttle body at $100..

..
Regardless some basic inspection of the throttle plate and some cleaning with kerosene/seafoam is only.going to run you $10 and some time.

 

there is a trick to setting the TPS without a meter...once you have everything reassembled. there's a definite point at which the sensor reads the throttle plate at idle position. with the engine running, when the TPS is out of range of that idle position of the plate, the rpm's will be high. slowly swivel the TPS just to the point the rpm's drop back down. that's where you set it. it means the TPS is reading the idle position/is in range. make sense?

 

this is inaccurate.

My idle rpm don't care where VTA is unless it's over 1200 with the brakes on or near 2k without.

If you're not going to use a meter just put it on loose and turn it till it touches the throttle blades.

 

I am sure there an abundance of videos out there on how to set the TPS sensor. Anyone have a particular one they like and deem accurate?

 

I used these instructions, do it when the TB is still on the bench. All you need is a meter & some feeler gauges:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

Also, here is a thread that covers a lot of reasons and fixes for the hot start idle problem in 22REs. I ended up buying a used TB in good shape and installed new seals from LCE. Seems to have mostly fixed my issue. Some are still struggling with the problem.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...20/index2.html

 

But what happens when you attach the throttle cable, it's important that it's done with the throttle body attached to the throttle cable because a little tension on the cable can change the "closed" position. Also just as important is properly setting the resting position of the throttle plate..

It's a 22re, which has slightly better access than the 3vze, but I've fiddled with plenty of 3vze tps and I still don't see why it's an issue to get access to the tps and it's screws on the 3vze or 22re.

 

My 92 has been doing the same thing for years now, but the idle is not rough. It's just a lower idle than the idle set RPM. I do believe it's caused by a worn throttle body or worn TPS. Keep tapping the gas, or raise the idle another 100 RPM. Mine does not do it all the time, so I am not spending money until it breaks.

 

well, all i can say is i've done it the way i described.....and described the best i can. maybe i could do better. also, it's not an idea original to me. lifted it from YT years ago. don't remember the original post.

anyway, it's really not any different than setting it with a meter the way 4crawler describes on his site ....except he uses a meter. whatever. in any case, i've done it without a meter, so....

 

Maybe I should have said incomplete instead? You seem to be describing the RPM change when the test jumper is in to set base timing, the rpm changes a bit due to the timing moving from 5° to 15°..

Shrug I'm the same guy that tweaked the tps, to get the VTA as centered as I could while meeting the FSM spec for IDL on off..
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52346202

 

no....not describing that. that's a completely different matter

i'll do some digging around and maybe i can find it. i seem to recall as related tidbit of info (again..years ago) that if/when you get the IDL position set, everything else should fall right into place and VTA was only a confirmation sort of reading. meh....it really has been a while....hehe