nbl300

iTrader: (1)

So I bought a decently clean pickup to tinker with That doesn't run. My check engine light doesn't turn off when I turn the key off and the fuel pump stays always on unless I unplug the efi relay circuit opening relay or the battery. I have access to identafix so I've got a good service manual. I've checked and changed the efi relay circuit openings relay and the starter relay still makes a dead click from the starter relay the efi relay clicks and receives power in both sides the circuit opening relay checks out all good but doesn't click when the key turns on. Also I can't get any flash codes. So I'm screwed on that portion. Any ideas I've jumped the starter and turned it over and got no spark at all.

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

Figured out why it wouldn't crank over bad clutch start cancel relay. Still don't know why the fuel pump won't shut off and why the check engine light stays on always even when the truck is shut off and key removed. Still can't get any trouble codes and still have no spark so the search continues

scope103

Is your COR closed (presumably, because removing the relay stops the fuel pump)? Is pin 4 (G-Y) grounded? If so, you have a bad VAF, Pin 3 shouldn't be at 12v, because that comes from the starter relay which you said was bad. Or you may have a COR that is STUCK closed.

When you turn the key to off, does the EFI relay open? IF it doesn't, that's what's powering the ECM and CEL; you need to find out why it is not opening.

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

well the cor relay isnt bad because i did the test with the battery power bothe sides an d check for continuity. it clicks on and clicks off with the battery plus i have 4 differnet one plus the one from this truck and they all do the same thing. so that runs back to the efi relay and to the maf sensor? also i read some guy with he same problem un hooks the middle connector on the ecu wich turns on the engine light and lets the truck start im going to try that but his issue ended up being that his maf/afm but mine is tested good and i have tryed other ones with the same result. ive pretty much tryed changing everything minus the ecu because i dont have a spare that has the same pinout.
so when i unhook the middle connector my engine light comes on and the fuel pump shuts off. hmmm

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

So now I still have no cel but my fuel pump doesn't turn on at all now tryed all the cor 's and 2 different mafs to no prevail

scope103

The fuel pump is powered by the COR. Yours is (sorta) wired correctly, because disconnecting the COR stops the pump. I assume your test of the COR is with it out of the vehicle. I also assume you didn't check that pins 1 and 2 opened and closed when you applied 12v to the COR.

What that tells me is that either the COR has the contacts welded together, OR something is wrong is the VAF/EFI circuit so that ground is constantly applied to pin 4, OR something is wrong with your starter relay so that 12v is constantly applied to pin 3 (less likely, as your starter isn't spinning).

The first isn't hard to (roughly) check; when you gently disconnect the COR, do you hear it click? If it doesn't, just stick your multimeter on pins 1-2 to check for continuity. If it clicks, check for 12v to ground on pin 3 (of the socket, of course), and check for ground to 12v on pin 4. While you're at it, check for 12v to ground on pin 2; that goes back to the EFI relay, and with key-off it should be disconnected.

Once you fix that, you still need to fix the EFI relay, as that powers the whole show. That relay should be open with key-off.

Note that these tests all require a $6 multimeter. Putting 12v on a relay and listening is a start, but you're dealing with electrons here, and ya can't see 'um (or hear them).

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

Ok I have a multi meter and atleast 3 of each and every relay I've tested all and tried all with the same result. I have fixed the fuel pump constantly on problem idk how but it did. When I crank pump turns on stop cranking pump turns off. On identafix it says the that the pump shoudl turn on when I open the afm wich I have 3 of and tried all so it's not the same problem. The pump doesn't kick on when I open the afm. But when I ground out the green yellow stripe wire on the afm connector with the test light the relay clicks and the pump kicks on



What does this relay do the round metal 3 prong one the is in the driver side kick panel

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

Also my efi relay never turns off ever I'm gonna try a different ignition switch

scope103

Huh? I know that you're posting from your phone. Leaving out all the punctuation and prepositions saves you, oh, 2 seconds? But it makes your posts unintelligible. Write your posts like you are TRYING to tell us something.

So ... what does that tell you? That all three of your VAFs are junk? Yes, pin 1 ("FC", which factory is a G-Y wire) of the VAF grounds when the vane opens. You've tested the wiring (good!), so you just need to test the VAF. Incidentally, having the FC line go bad isn't impossible, but is much rarer than having a problem with the VS line, which will make your rig run very poorly. Test all the connectors using your manual. (Note that this will take much less time than "swapping" the VAF even once.

Wow, do you have a mountain of junk parts? Or are you buying these parts?

At a minimum, you could have a bad EFI relay, a bad ignition switch, or maybe some bad wiring. Using your multimeter would tell you which it is in about 10 seconds. Can you swap an ignition switch in less than 5 minutes? Just put your multimeter on pin 1 of the EFI socket; that goes back to IG2 of the ignition switch (through a connector and fuse).

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

on a computer now! yes i'm in highschool alls i have is time so id rather just swap and swap and swap than actually check it because i actually dont know how to use the multimeter properly well i kinda do but i dont know where to look for the right things to test. yes i have mountains of parts starting in middle school i started buying toyota 4runners and pickups and running them in the woods till they broke got totaled or just didnt move anymore, then part them out to the "seasonal" workers which ship them to south america (met lots of cool and interesting people) but its currenetly picking/mowing season so everbodys at work and nobody buys parts but this year has been REALLY slow overall. that is why i have a surplus of things to try. LOL
i have another v6 to try with all sensors computer and interior harness but i dont feel like pulling a motor while its 100 degrees plus my dad said i should try and learn how to diag something and not just be an r&r man although i'm more of a d&r (destroy and remove) man myself . so i will start again from the beginning because i was just rambling.


At first i couldn't turn the engine over with the key though it was the wrecked wiring from a "custom" boom box and radio install plus one of those city shop alarm installs like come on an alarm system in a pickup is not needed most of them now adays you could just reach through the door or floor rust and unlock it. so i cut all that out and returned the wires to their designated routings. now that i think about it maybe one of those wires is grounding or shorting out on something (explanation later). gotta check that. I swapped starter relays and still no dice then i noticed that the clutch start cancel button wouldn't stay lit up unless i held it in. so i swapped that and bang turns over with the key. PROBLEM FIXED


The second problem was my fuel pump was constantly on and i mean constanly key off key out and the pump was still singing. i dont really know how i stopped this or slightly fixed it but i keft the battery plugged in all night with the cor relay disconnected. went out this morning and pump wasn't constanly on and i though oh sweet that was easy nope the toyota gods weren't letting me go that easy. so i checked the function of the fuel pump to see if it fixed its self. the pump powers on when engine is cranked over. pump does not power on when i open the flap on the vafm. when i ground the green and yellow wire with the test light the cor relay clicks and the pump powers on. question is why doesn't it power on with the afm. i am not using the afm that came with the truck i am trying it with ones i know work and are functioning properly. so what wiring could be bad or is it im not getting enough voltage through the vafm to jump the relay and power the pump?


PROBLEMS i haven't tackled which may be connected to each other all not functioning properly

1) my efi relay is always powered up connect the battery doesn't click, truck on clicks, truck off doesn't click off, disconnect battery clicks off. ive tested the relay jump one side on the battery and test the other gets a strong 12v on the meter. so the relay is good. what i think is wrong. start with the battery unplugged. go to the ignition connector with the test light 2 big white wires both have power little blue wire has power. key all the way on. key all the way off all 3 of those wires have power but now the little green wire has power that didn't before? faulty ignition switch?

2) my check engine light doesnt work if i unplug the middle connector from the ecu it turns on so i know it works plug it in shuts back off. key on light doesn't come on like it should. jump the ports to read trouble codes nothing comes on or flashes yes im jumping the right ports.

3) i have no spark.

scope103

Did you do this?

Uh, maybe look in that "good service manual"? If that doesn't work, here's the actual Manual: http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...92volumeai.pdf

I hope you realize how ... interesting .... this sounds! The only thing the VAF does on FC is ground it when the vane opens. You've already confirmed that IF the VAF grounded the FC pin, the fuel pump would start. But your fuel pump doesn't start. And yet for some reason you think you "know" that replacement VAF "works."

Figure out how to use a multimeter; it isn't hard, and it's actually fun. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/...aTech/h10e.pdf Read the manual you have; it tells you everything you need to know to test components with a multimeter. Stop swapping parts randomly; your mountain of parts may keep you from going bankrupt, but putting in one bad part after another will only make you more and more frustrated.

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

ok so if you didnt know what identafix is google it.

lets step away from the vaf afm what ever you call it for a minute.

yes i tested the efi socket the one has a constant 12v and the other has 12v when you turn the key. now heres where it gets interesting. when you turn the key off theres not supposed to be power in the other turn the key off pull the relay out check it 12v on one side nothing on the other but my efi relay never clicks off until i remove it so i put the relay back in unbolted the fuse panel and turn it on and off again. go in there with the test light the one that is supposed to have power has it but the other HAS power too makes the test light glow the coil not bright just glow. im guessing this is enough power to not let the relay click off. after this and other low voltages i decided to check the values on the ecu my power into the ecu is only 6.6 volts not the designated 10-14v also all my other readings on the ecu are way lower than they should be for example jumping ports idl to e2 should yield between 8 and 14v i only got 6v

i know the vaf works because i took it off a running 4runner. and then used it on another 2 years later. I also tested it with the ohm meter and tested for continuity all wich came back perfectly fine and within spec for the temperature it was outside

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

So ya know how it's really hard to find a top post battery that fits in a pickup properly. I bet the guy before me didn't realize it was backwards of the usual one. Hooked it up back fed the ecu and shocked it so now it's inputs and outputs are all skewed.

I need another ecu in the manual it says in trouble shooting remove and replace or try another ecu. I also tried grounding the purple wire or w to get the cel to turn on wich it doesn't do. Manual says remove and replace or try another ecu. But first check the wires and fuse wich are fine so. To the junk yard to buy the only part I don't have.