you probably got 5.29s. wana sell em? if they really are 5.29s. i got 4.10s id trade you. is the tranny goin into gear good? when i put my 2in body lift on my 95 p/u, i had to remove the shifter plate so it would go into the gears

 

i would love to get rid of these gears i have lol they rev way too soon, but i have no idea as of yet the cost and work of removing them and setting them back up right. ive heard its a pita and it should be left to the pro's? and tried4x2signN im pretty sure i have a 2 to 3" suspension lift because when i bought my new shocks a couple years ago i had to buy 3" over stock to make them reach does that sound about right? thanks guys for the help

 

oh and one more thing does any of you have a problem with the stock cigarette lighter? or is it the fact that i have a 3"BL every time i plug my cell charger, or CB in 3rd gear smashes the hell out of the plug!

 

Here's how to tell what gears you have: http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#ratios


And I can't see your truck so I don't know what you have... Body or suspension...


thissy there is a body lift. And as much as I hate them, they can serve a great propose... They let you equally, or less if you want, lift the engine and transmission. Leave it low for a low center of gravity. Or lift it to tuck every component above the frame rails. You can even lift the gas tank.

Notice the next body mount further back, behind the brake caliper in the pic. It's got a spacer on it to.

 

ok i found my Power Problem #6 cyl has 0 psi and 4 only has about 130psi i couldnt get the tester on #1 but by looking at the spark plug its running fine. so i guess head gasket and maybe valve job.

 

Darn, I hate it when I'm right. I'm sorry to hear about the motor problems. I don't know what kind of mileage you have on it, but when my motor finally went, I decided to go with a replacement motor from Japan Engine.com.

I weighed the cost of replacing vs. rebuilding. With a new motor, I don't have to rebuild, I don't have to have all the required tools, plus less down time, plus the new motor comes with a warranty.

Not only that, but when I got the old motor out and I started to tear it down for fun, a few of the head bolts were seized badly on the threads. 2 or 3 of the bolts finally snapped off between the threads and the head. If I was rebuilding, I would have had to figure out and spend all that time just removing those stupid bolts, plus who knows what else.

Also, I personally don't like refreshing the top end of a motor and leaving the old worn out bottom end. You're just asking for more problems very soon. If the entire motor is worn and tired, then you rebuild the head, all of a sudden the valves are sealing completely. Now you're all of a sudden putting a lot more stress on the bottom end.

That's just my opinion. Then again, I'm kind of lazy and I hate doing the same job twice.

 

ouch... been there before...


If you can get your hands on a set of heads, buy them and have THEM rebuilt.. Then it's a matter if just pulling your heads off and putting those back on... Then you can try and sell your old heads when you're done.

Two things that might help... Unless you're going to pay to have it done:

I remove the EGR and upper intake and just flip it over and rest it on the fender... But you MIGHT not have the 100 vac lines an earlier model came with.

2nd. I leave the entire cross over pipe in one piece. Remove down pipe, the exhaust manifold nuts and head bolts.

After the timing belt and all other things that can keep a head on are removed, I pick one head at a time up and place something soft under the head. Then I can pull each head towards the center of the truck to clear the studs and take them out of the truck.

Do not waste your time trying to remove the x over pipe. It is far to complex, requires special tools and in a VERY confined space.

And DO NOT replace the belt with an aftermarket one, and replace it while it's out. TOYOTA BELT ONLY!!! Replace the water pump and tensioner to.

 

if your gettin gears set up you should leave it to a pro. but in toyotas, you just unbolt the 3rd member in the rear, and bolt up the other one. the front IFS is a little tougher though. you can PM me if you find out they are 5.29s and interested in trading

 

You can also try adjusting the valves. I had an exhaust valve that was to tight and I had 0 compression in one cylinder. Inserted the correct shim and now I am good to go.

And yes gearing WILL ABSOLUTELY cause your speedo to read higher or lower depending on which way the gearing has changed from stock. I replaced my 4:30 diffs with factory 4.88's and my speedo was about 10-12 mph too high. (with 235/75/15 tires) I then upgraded the tires to 265/75/16's and now I read about 5-6mph oveer the speed I am actually traveling. A set of 285/75/16's will bring my speedo to almost exactly accurate.

To the original poster if you put a set of 35's on there your speedo would be almost accurate. Or swap the diffs back to the stock gear ratio.

 

NOPE gearing DOES change the speedo. I know, I changed gearing without changing tire size......