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88 P/U IFS 22RE w/ 33's...what should I regear to

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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 02:36 PM
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From: MD
88 P/U IFS 22RE w/ 33's...what should I regear to

I'm looking at a 1988 Toyota P/U w/ a 22re and a 5spd tranny. It has a 4" body lift and 33x12.50R15 BFG's. My whole purpose for downsizing in vehicle size is to get good fuel economy. But this thing just looks so sick!! haha. So my question here is what should I regear to for fuel economy(4.56's?, 4.88's? or what)?, I mean the truck cant be doin too well right now. The most offroading Ill be doing is weekends on the beach or in a mud pit, so I dont need a whole whole bunch of rock crawling strength.
Thanks in advance yall!

Last edited by bluecollar; Jun 24, 2008 at 02:40 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 03:07 PM
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well 4.88 is what you want but id be more worried about this 4" body lift.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 03:25 PM
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x2. Body lifts should never be higher then 3". Leverage gets to be too much after that point. I would think about chopping an inch off that body lift, and lifting the suspension to gain it back.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:08 PM
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4.88's and get rid of the 4"body lift
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:10 PM
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From: MD
sorry, Im only 17 so Im still learnin a lot about this stuff.
Im not so sure what you mean about the leverage?
but it seems like yall are definately against the body lift. I was thinkin the same thing myself...
And yall think 4.88 will give me what Im lookin for?
Thanks

Last edited by bluecollar; Jun 24, 2008 at 05:20 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:12 PM
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Any pictures of it?
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Think about this.

Try to remove a rusted bolt with a 5" long rachet, hard right? Now try one thats 15" long, easier right? Thats leverage. THe same thing happens when you lift your body off the frame (body lift). THe bolts must be longer to accomidate the lift, therefore they are not under more stress due to leverage. I have known a few people who ran 4" body lifts, they were fine. But I find it unsettling. General rule of thumb, 3" is the max for body lifts.

ANd yes, 4.88's will be good. That should put the truck right back to stock in terms of gearing.

You could go to 5.29's if you wanted more low end power at the expense of higher rpms on the highway...
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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From: MD
Thanks Jay.

And Hurley, here's your pix:









and this is what the guy told me about it....not buying the 20 mpg thing.

"a 1988 toyota pickup it has the awesome 22re 4cylinder with a 5 speed with only 131,655 miles! i have installed alot of accesories including a 4 inch body lift, 33x12.5 bf goodrich mud terrains mounted on 15x10 polished centerline rims, rancho rs5000 off road shocks,it has an aluminum tool box with cb antennas,also has a glasspack exhaust no cat,15% tinted windows, as for the inside the seats and carpet are in perfect condition it has a sony xplod radio and a cb. the only thing wrong with this truck is the normal toyota rust (not alot) i patched it with some bondo it looks alright better than it did. there is a dent in the tailgate that could be popped out easily. this would make someone a great daily driver as i am currently driving it it looks great with the lift and wheels and even gets about 20 mpg if you have any quesions just ask"

Last edited by bluecollar; Jun 24, 2008 at 05:29 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:45 PM
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From: MD
thanks for your help guys...
so all in all what do you think its worth?
I have more pix if you would like to see them.
They guy is askin 5 grand for it.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Hmm, looks like a nice truck. But its not worth 5 grand. Chances are he is trying to recoup the money he spent on the mods.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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From: PDX
4.88 gears are what you want

BTW, you can just fit 33's on an IFS with 1" body lift, 1" torsion lift -or- ball joint spacers, longer shackles to lift the rear a bit, and hammer the body seam in the rear of the front wheel well flat. A lower profile truck will get better fuel economy, unless you're really looking for the lifted 80's look . . .
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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From: MD
I'm goin for the 80's look, lift doesnt matter. I was originally looking for an 80's w/ 31x10.50's but I saw this and I liked it.
good gas mileage is my main concern.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 06:10 PM
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what do you guys think, $2,500/$3,000
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 06:15 PM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
3,000 sounds okay. Thats about as much as I would go.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 06:16 PM
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thanks for yall your help yall. I really appreciate it.
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 07:46 PM
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130K, 22RE, 4x4.

Theres 3,500 right there
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 09:37 PM
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I get 20mpg easy, he ain't tin ya.
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 10:00 PM
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From: chippawa niagara falls ontario
id keep looking for a pre 85 s.a there out there and worth the extra money..
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 10:22 PM
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From: Valley Of The Dirt
Not Trying to Go Against The Grain here But Just Curious Why You Guys Would Recommend 4:88's For Such A Small Tire? Here Is A Picture Of My Buddy's Rig, (Back When He Used To Drive It On The Street Still) 22RE 37's And 4:88's. Hits 70 MPH On The FWY And About 18-20 MPG



And Now On 39.5" Irocs, No Longer Driven On The Streets, Still Running 4:88's And Still Hauls Ass On The Lakebed
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Old Jun 29, 2008 | 10:48 PM
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4.88's with 33's bring the powerband back to stock (w/ 5speed, 5.29's w/ auto).
Yes you can run larger tires on 4.88's and yes, you can run 33's on higher gears (4.10's, what I still run with mine) and survive, its just not fun.

And the 20mpg, sounds right. I get about 19, mainly at highway speeds. In town its probably closer to 15 or so.

Take a inch out of the body lift then put some money into a drivetrain lift. Cleans up the underside and gives ya more ground clearance under the frame.

Last edited by EWAYota; Jun 29, 2008 at 10:51 PM.
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