88 dead after ign switch replaced HELP
#21
MountainGirl,
You have done TOO many things that you have not proven to be necessary, and are costing you money and time. Until you SEE WHERE THE ELECTRONS ARE GOING, you will get nowhere. The only way to SEE if the electrons are going to where we want them is with a multi-meter.
Stop buying and replacing and returning. Like we have been saying over and over above... measure, test, measure, test... cam be done with a $6 multi-meter.
You have done TOO many things that you have not proven to be necessary, and are costing you money and time. Until you SEE WHERE THE ELECTRONS ARE GOING, you will get nowhere. The only way to SEE if the electrons are going to where we want them is with a multi-meter.
Stop buying and replacing and returning. Like we have been saying over and over above... measure, test, measure, test... cam be done with a $6 multi-meter.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Aug 3, 2017 at 07:06 AM.
#22
At the risk of repeating the obvious (but in the hope of being complete and helpful), here's my favorite "$6 multimeter": https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-90899.html
#23
Good Morning, was just about to leave for town and saw your message
I cannot test battery with load by meter without someone to turn the key to start position. is that correct? is there some trick to do that?
I have checked the following over and over in case I have not been clear:
across batt + to - = 12.62v, across batt terminals= 12.62v, batt + to relay connector #4 black wire (in) =12.4v
batt to relay connector #2 black/wht stripe (out)= 12.4v, have not checked the other two #3 black, #1 black red stripe
fusible links check out good in and out
Please don't be angry with me, doing the best I can.
I have to go get food will come back here later
I cannot test battery with load by meter without someone to turn the key to start position. is that correct? is there some trick to do that?
I have checked the following over and over in case I have not been clear:
across batt + to - = 12.62v, across batt terminals= 12.62v, batt + to relay connector #4 black wire (in) =12.4v
batt to relay connector #2 black/wht stripe (out)= 12.4v, have not checked the other two #3 black, #1 black red stripe
fusible links check out good in and out
Please don't be angry with me, doing the best I can.
I have to go get food will come back here later
#24
batt + to relay connector #4 black wire (in) =12.4v
There should be zero volt. Relay pin 4 is same electrical point as battery +
Please don't be angry with me, doing the best I can.
I have to go get food will come back here later
I have to go get food will come back here later
#25
I LOVE YOU GUYS
It is 6:45 am, started over, while under the dash checking all the fuse connections, pulled loose the fuse box... found a chewed wire (NOT completely broken) and a dead vole dropped out that was stuck behind the fuse box. Fixed it and VAROOM.
Nothing wrong with my yota after all. Stupid rodent caused all this craziness.
Back on the road, NOW for the van, back to the tools.
HOORAH
thank you, for keeping me at it.
It is 6:45 am, started over, while under the dash checking all the fuse connections, pulled loose the fuse box... found a chewed wire (NOT completely broken) and a dead vole dropped out that was stuck behind the fuse box. Fixed it and VAROOM.
Nothing wrong with my yota after all. Stupid rodent caused all this craziness.
Back on the road, NOW for the van, back to the tools.
HOORAH

thank you, for keeping me at it.
#26
I am glad you got your truck working again! 
I have been following this thread and was interested what your problem was.
I never thought wire insulation was tasty, but the rodents sure do!

I have been following this thread and was interested what your problem was.
I never thought wire insulation was tasty, but the rodents sure do!

#28
As I always emphasize, Toyota components are bullet-proof. We should suspect wiring, poor assembly and poor maintenance before we doubt Toyota parts.
#30
RAD: you are awesome! Thanks for you patience
May I add that finding a real toyota mechanic/diagnostician these days (not a RnR jerk) is a rare event, and that aisin v.s. chinese crap parts is the way to go (if possible).
Back to work on van
Jaye

May I add that finding a real toyota mechanic/diagnostician these days (not a RnR jerk) is a rare event, and that aisin v.s. chinese crap parts is the way to go (if possible).
Back to work on van
Jaye
#31








