88 4runner brake problem
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88 4runner brake problem
So i have a bit of a brake problem lol this is my first 4runner i bought it in colorado and put all new brakes on when i went to bleed them the driver side rear would shoot air n spit fluid never could get a steady stream. my mistake figured dang it can wait. im in utah now and it failed a inspection because the emergency brake wont hold it. i adjusted and still nothing so today i figure lets raise and see whats going on i took it out of gear and spun the wheels and hit the brakes.. woah no brakes at all in the rear i got under had a buddy pump the brakes i could hear the passenger side moving but not the driver. i went to bleed from the piece up on the frame " yeah i forget what its called" and got a steady stream figure ok that will do it. did it again and still no brakes. so right now im figureing the wheel cylinder on the driver side is bad. any other ideas would be very helpfull i got to get this thing to pass inspection and make it safer to drive since i have to go back and forth to colorado. Thanks
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The "yeah i forget what its called" piece up on the frame is the "LSP-BV": load sensing proportioning-bypass valve. When you bled it, the fluid came from the front brake circuit, not the rear. If you look at the frame just behind the passenger front wheel, you'll see the "tee" that runs fluid back to the valve.
If you disconnect the long arm that crosses over and attaches to the rear axle, from the rear axle and let it droop, you'll get better fluid flow when bleeding the rear brakes.
Were it me, I would put a section of clear tubing on the rear brake cylinder bleeder, make a small loop up and then down and put the end of the tubing in a jar partially filled with brake fluid. Then I would open the brake bleeder just barely, and sit and wait. Gravity will pull brake fluid from the master cylinder down to the wheel cylinder... eventually. You have to keep an eye on the fluid in the master though to make sure it doesn't run dry.
If you disconnect the long arm that crosses over and attaches to the rear axle, from the rear axle and let it droop, you'll get better fluid flow when bleeding the rear brakes.
Were it me, I would put a section of clear tubing on the rear brake cylinder bleeder, make a small loop up and then down and put the end of the tubing in a jar partially filled with brake fluid. Then I would open the brake bleeder just barely, and sit and wait. Gravity will pull brake fluid from the master cylinder down to the wheel cylinder... eventually. You have to keep an eye on the fluid in the master though to make sure it doesn't run dry.
Last edited by abecedarian; 09-09-2012 at 05:37 AM.
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abecedarian. Thanks your info worked for the most part but barely got anything out of her. said to heck with it and replaced it now they work great stopped me with no problem from hitting a very big buck on my way back from colorado last week.
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