oregon_yota

basically what the title says. i replaced all the timing kit about a year ago and it has always sounded a little bit like rattling in there, and just recently it got much worse so i pulled the valve cover looked down in and sure enough broken guides laying inside (partially my fault for using the plastic ones).

on a side note, when i bought the truck the guy told me the oil light sometimes comes on bcuz the pressure gauge sending unit was bad, he gave me another but i never installed it, never really cared.
so now i've come to the conclusion he was a dick and just wanted to get the truck off his hands.

anyways, when the truck is running at idle the light is barely visible to off completely, give it a lil gas and it comes on fully, but when im driving down the road or revving at higher rpm's it is off. Is my oil pump bad too? i have one ordered but at 75 bucks i am kind of reluctant to go pick it up from the parts store. so i want to know if those really go bad. i have it pulled off and everything seems okay, no excesssive wear on any of the gears/case. one thing though i wonder about on those is that little arrow on the pump gears...do u have to line those up a certain way when installing?
Now, im also going to pull the pan to check for broken material and i want to take a look at the oil pick up tube. Could that plug up in a way to effect pressure at low rpm, but still work at higher rpm?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

If it was rattling right after replacement, the tensioner was either bad or when you installed the oil pump bolts you used the wront bolt in the hole thats by the tensioner and it pinched the tensioner open. You could always get a mechanical gauge to test your oil pressure? Yes a clogged sump can block or restrict your oil pressure.

oregon_yota

well i had bought the wrong timing chain kit in the first place, i ended up figuring out it is a pre 85 engine in the truck and the timing chain is longer so i have another tensioner im putting in there. as far as the oil pump bolts go, there are two short ones on the bottom corners that thread into the tc cover, two long ones in the top corners that pass through and thread into the block and one slightly longer than the bottom bolts right underneath the piece that sticks out over the pulley for timing. i'll have to pull the timing cover next slowly and check those long bolts but i dont understand what u mean by pinching it open. can u elaborate?

oregon_yota

well i pulled out the haynes manual and check clearances, the driven gear to pump body clearance is at the service limit, but the driven gear to crescent and drive gear to crescent were both within spec. the book says though if any clearance is out to replace the pump. also it says the relief valve should move freely when u pull the cap and spring out and when i did the valve stayed in there, i didnt think that would cause low pressure but either way i suppose thats bad.
throwin the new pump on in the morning, i'll see how she runs then

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If you have the wrong chain it is going to rattle.

Because it is to long.

You have to love these engines the fact the chain has not jumped time is impressive.

Don`t forget to prime your new pump.

oregon_yota

well i finally got it all fixed up today. looking at the tensioners i found my problem. on the bad tensioner there was check ball type plug "sealing" a casting hole, when i pressed in on the tensioner i can see bubbles coming out of that hole, thats where i was losing my pressure at idle.
on the new tensioner (2nd pic) there is a screw sealing that casting hole that actually seals. i ended up with the two different ones because i originally bought the kit for an '87 22r then found out i had an '84 block so the bad tensioner came with that older kit.

nothingbetter

and don't feel bad about $75 oil pump...mine was $200. Although it did bump up my pressure so it was worth every penny.

gLaMcamiLLe

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”The quickest way to double your money is to fold it over and put it back in your pocket.” - Will Rogers

MudHippy

Can you say dumbass?