overlooked the injector plug.now ive gotta go back and redo the timing belt for the zillionth time.thanks for all the help

 

I broke down and took my runner to a yota mech.he said my timing belt was on correctly but couldnt start it.finally he looked at the distributor and said it was 1 tooth off.now it starts fine.my buddy got the rollback and brought it home,now the battery was dead,so i jumped it off and it ran fine.when i took the cables off the idle dropped a bunch,so i kept the revs up hoping to charge the battery but when the motor started warming up it started to run bad,the warmer it got the worse it ran till it ran like total crap and died.

i told this to the mech. and he said it sounded electrical,does anyone concur?im pretty sure the battery is totally dead it wasnt charging at all.

any suggestions,comments,ideas would help greatly and be appreciated very much!thanks.

 

hey walker thanks for the help.in that pic you posted,2nd from the bottom.it shows the egr valve the is a wire connected/screwed into the valve pointed toward the passenger side of the car coming out horizontally,what is that my book does go into that detail,just wanted to know if i omitted something thanks.

 

was the alternator/charge light on when it was running? If so that's your problem, the alt isn't charging the battery and the engine will run like crap once the battery is almost dead as t doesn't have enough power to run the ignition.

 

[you might want to start a new thread -- you're a bit afield from the original title]

First, if you don't have a timing light you need one. If the distributor gear was off you were off timing by about 30 degrees. I'm going to bet your ignition timing is closer now, but still way off. The truck will start with the cold-engine advance, but as it warms up it is probably too retarded. Easy to tell with a timing light; very, very difficult any other way.

Second, if the battery is dead, charge it. Again, a battery charger is a "good thing to have," but you can pull the battery out and take it to a garage for very cheap. Otherwise, you're chasing a whole bunch of problems at the same time. Solve the easy ones, then go to the harder ones.

 

It was charging high like the battery had a dead cell.so i guess my question would be at this point would a dead(cell)battery cause the motor to run like crap,messing with cars with computers are new to me.i do want to reiterate that it runs just about perfect when its cold.

thanks for the help

 

could be battery or maybe the voltage regulator is bad in the alt as well. Was the alt light on? or no. I would still lean towards alternator though as not always will the alt light come on if the alt is bad.

 

check my son's thread a page or 2 back....the alternator checked out fine, the connections were corroded......causing a no-charge situation and the motor would run and then die too......runs fine now.

 

Running lime crap when warm but good when cold is an indicator of a vacuum (unmetered air) leak. Check intake hose for cracks & all vacuum lines for leaks. An unlit propane torch is an excellent way to check for vacuum leaks as the engine will idle up when you get near one. As you've figured out...there are MILES of vacuum hose on the 3VZE~

 

wow thanks for the response dont think its the alternator its charging pretty good,i have a gauge on it,i will definitely check the hoses its got a brand new intake tube so maybe somethings up with that.thanks 92,it has a brass connection on the positive side and lead on neg,both are clean thanks.ok battery and hoses and corrosion,thanks gents.