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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

88 22re starts then shuts off.

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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 07:01 PM
  #21  
scope103's Avatar
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Originally Posted by gsp4life
..., but isn't burnt insulation now partially carbon, which is a mild conductor compared to non-burnt plastic?
If all you do is burn the insulation without damaging the wire, you have the conductance of the wire (whatever that is), PLUS the conductance of the carbon trace. The carbon is in parallel with the copper, so all it can do is REDUCE the resistance. (conductance, measured in mhos, is the reciprocal of resistance, measured in ohms).

In fact, the resistance of an undamaged automobile ground wire is so low (milli-ohms) that the adding any reasonably possible amount of carbon in parallel won't make a measurable difference.

Kudos for thinking this through, even if you reached an unlikely conclusion.
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 07:20 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by scope103
If all you do is burn the insulation without damaging the wire, you have the conductance of the wire (whatever that is), PLUS the conductance of the carbon trace. The carbon is in parallel with the copper, so all it can do is REDUCE the resistance. (conductance, measured in mhos, is the reciprocal of resistance, measured in ohms).

In fact, the resistance of an undamaged automobile ground wire is so low (milli-ohms) that the adding any reasonably possible amount of carbon in parallel won't make a measurable difference.

Kudos for thinking this through, even if you reached an unlikely conclusion.
I've always been in full-focus mode while using a lighter to melt heat shrink! From now on, I guess I can use that attention elsewhere...
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 11:37 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Rooster316
Alright, i took the battery in last night, added about 16 oz of water to it and let it sit on the charge for nearly 24 hours it was at full charge. So I took it out. She fired on the first turn. (Faster than usual).

she ran great, I took it for a spin around the neighborhood, maybe a mile or so. Brought it back, turned it off, Tried to turn it back on and. Now it won't do anything but turn over slowly.

I am am now breaking out the wiring diagram so I can figure out what's the deal with the alternator/wiring.

This should be fairly simple right... the book shows red and yellow coming out of the plug for alternator and a white coming off the top of alternator.

my plug has white, red, yellow, and the black come off of the top screw. All going to the inline plug that goes into the harness. But it also has a separate white wire coming off the top screw and going to a little plastic box with a 10mm nut holding it together with another wire that comes out black and goes around the front of truck and to the fuse box. Best I can tell is it hooks up to the same fuse as the positive of battery. Should this hook directly to the battery instead of this fuse?
The three wire plug is red yellow and white, power supply, charge light, and battery sense. Key on you get battery voltage on white. Engine running at 2000 rpm you have a minimum 13.5v on yellow.

The lug connection should be heavy gauge white wire, with the a junction box.

i bet you get a big light show when you connect a battery?

That little black wire it comes out of the same section of the harness as the three plug connector and is maybe a few inches longer? That would be the driver's side ground wire and it doesn't belong there it attaches to the head. Refer to #2 Here to see where that goes.
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 09:05 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Rooster316
...

This should be fairly simple right... the book shows red and yellow coming out of the plug ... Should this hook directly to the battery instead of this fuse?
Unfortunately, the book does not tell you which does what.
Did you try searching "how charging system works"?
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 09:37 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by gsp4life
I've always been in full-focus mode while using a lighter to melt heat shrink! From now on, I guess I can use that attention elsewhere...
Uh, no, don't take it that way. Insulation is there to prevent a short (usually to ground), and if you convert enough insulation to carbon it no longer does that function.

Insulation on a ground wire is almost pointless; shorting a ground wire to ground makes no difference. (In house wiring, the ground wire is commonly bare copper.) But insulation on a power (12v) wire is quite important. If you turn enough of the insulation to carbon (or anything else non-insulating), if you bump that carbon trace to some metal you'll short 12v to ground. With spectacular results.

So do yourself a favor and ditch the lighter (you don't smoke any more any way). Spring for a simple hot-air gun; you'll be glad you did (also useful for warming ancient rubber hoses to make them easier to remove without breaking). http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-wa...112-96289.html
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 02:11 PM
  #26  
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So after a good bit of research and searching for parts etc.

I replaced the start relay, still had no luck charging the battery while truck was running. I removed alternator plug traced and replaced the wires. (That was a harder task than one might think) Rewired the ground for alternator and battery.

As for the lights i found a short in one of the wires going to the switch and I replaced it.

I beleive i had 2 separate problems but knock on wood she's running like a champ!! Thanks for all the input guys!!
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