87' Startup
#41
doesn't mean you're stupid
you can totally admit up one side and down the other that you are
and I won't agree. I may think you're ignorant, but won't consider you stupid.
and considering you're in college, you'll know the difference.
you can totally admit up one side and down the other that you are
and I won't agree. I may think you're ignorant, but won't consider you stupid.
and considering you're in college, you'll know the difference.
Last edited by abecedarian; May 25, 2008 at 08:41 PM.
#42
not even college, highschool.
but none the less, im taking your advice for that dextron/oil mix, i really hope that cleans most of the junk out of the engine.
Thanks for the advice man. Youve been such a good help. If i could have you over for a brew i would, but you live to far. haha
but none the less, im taking your advice for that dextron/oil mix, i really hope that cleans most of the junk out of the engine.
Thanks for the advice man. Youve been such a good help. If i could have you over for a brew i would, but you live to far. haha
#45
Nice truck!! Good luck with that!! :-)
a couple of tw0-cents worth here:
If your oil pressure comes up 'some' when the engine first starts, when the viscosity is highest, and then tapers off to nothing as it gets warm, and considering the number of miles on the truck, your bearings are probably too worn. The best way to get your engine clean inside is to change the oil on 3000 mile schedule, and then it wont disrupt things like seals and natural varnishes. 10w40 is the lightest weight you should use in the summer, unless you're breaking in a new engine. I had to run 20W50 plus oil booster in mine because of low oil pressure, loose bearings. Finally, I just built a new engine.
a couple of tw0-cents worth here:
If your oil pressure comes up 'some' when the engine first starts, when the viscosity is highest, and then tapers off to nothing as it gets warm, and considering the number of miles on the truck, your bearings are probably too worn. The best way to get your engine clean inside is to change the oil on 3000 mile schedule, and then it wont disrupt things like seals and natural varnishes. 10w40 is the lightest weight you should use in the summer, unless you're breaking in a new engine. I had to run 20W50 plus oil booster in mine because of low oil pressure, loose bearings. Finally, I just built a new engine.
Last edited by misterzee; May 26, 2008 at 07:02 AM.
#46
Thanks man!
i got it for a steal of a deal, theres bearly any rust on the outside, all the functions work on the inside and whatnot.
I love it
Yeah, i will defiantly take your advice and everyones else and put it to use next oil change.
ahh im going crazy, so this morning i went out to go take my truck around for a spin, and i turn on the heater, and all i got was this buzzing sound again.
So im thinking its some electrical? where do i start to narrow down the problem?
i got it for a steal of a deal, theres bearly any rust on the outside, all the functions work on the inside and whatnot.
I love it
Yeah, i will defiantly take your advice and everyones else and put it to use next oil change.
ahh im going crazy, so this morning i went out to go take my truck around for a spin, and i turn on the heater, and all i got was this buzzing sound again.
So im thinking its some electrical? where do i start to narrow down the problem?
#47
Alright this is starting to bother me, ive came down to the conclusion that i have the starter relay problem.
Does anyone have any info/pics tutorials on how to add an extra relay.
Thanks alot
Does anyone have any info/pics tutorials on how to add an extra relay.
Thanks alot
#50
hey just typed in "Starter Relay" and came up with I think the diagram you need. hope this helps, you can also google it, there's lots of Toyota specialist websites out there...
Good Luck
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/dead-145078/
Good Luck
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131/dead-145078/
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