Run through the spark test before replacing the igniter. The igniter is the last thing to replace on the spark test flow chart.

I cleaned up some of the connections on my igniter, so at least do that on yours. Mine were looking not so good. Clean the connections to the coil too.

 

I cleaned all my contacts today because my tach has been acting so strange, didn't help. I checked my FSM and there aren't any procedures for testing an igniter as far as I can tell. Seems like I am getting decent spark all around, so I'm going to hold off and see if anything else explains my tach issues.

I fiddled with the TPS some more today and just checked the computer. Code 7, looks like I fiddled with it too much. I'm going to fart with it more after work tomorrow but I feel like I'm getting closer.

 

Just to put a bow on this thread, after chasing down all my vacuum and exhaust leaks, the biggest problem was a poorly adjusted throttle body and a bad TPS sensor. Followed the instructions on LCE Performances PDF to the letter and after the initial rich idle from my broken IACV, she sounds great for an engine with nearly 300K on the clock. Next I am going to attempt to either clean or replace the IACV.

 

I'm looking at this Nissan part, and it appears not to use coolant to register a temperature. Does it just use an electrical signal? Do you have any more details of how this works? Thanks!

 

Yup. No coolant runs through. It is a bi metal valve just no coolant. I don’t have first hand experience, but the way I’ve seen it done is to fabricate a bracket and mount it to where the Toyota one was. Run new vacuum/air lines.
I did the later style intake swap. Updated design. No fabrication needed. Keeps everything Toyota.

 

Cool, thanks. I'm not sure if I'm ready to take the plunge and completely swap out the intakes, so I'm going to try cleaning my IACV and go from there. If you have any photos or links for reference I'd love to see. Thanks!

 

Previous post #16 of mine in this same thread has a great link for the swap