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ok 87 toyota pickup 4x4 m/t 22r will not start. starter is golden along with bat. when i turn the key over to start there is a clicking under/in the dash in the middleish. i wondering if there is so called start relay that is present in haynes manual. and if this said relay is located in dash. so my question is? is there said start relay for the 87 toyota 4x4 pickup m/t 22r? If there is said start relay were abouts is it located? and has anyone had this problem and have a p/n for said relay or a fix for said problem?
if you've got a voltmeter, pull the small wire from the starter and verify you are getting voltage at that wire (may need someone to turn the key while you check).
If you are getting voltage, make a jumper wire in order to apply voltage to that terminal on the starter and check that the starter spins when you do. If it does spin, then you will likely need to either replace your ignition switch or wire a relay into the starter circuit in such a way that the old wire from the ignition switch to the starter (the one you disconnected above) triggers the relay, and then the relay applies voltage from the battery to the starter (through an appropriately sized fuse ).
If you are not getting voltage, you'll have to start tracing wires back and checking continuity, etc., or your ignition switch may be bad.
Last edited by abecedarian; Nov 27, 2008 at 07:21 AM.
I have that same issue, PO put in a stand allown switch in. I have already replaced the ignition switch with no luck on fixing the original issue. So I'm stuck with the switch until someone has a better resolution. Sorry
have either of you figured this out yet ? i have an 87 also and the same problem
just wondering if anyone found a solution yet
The clicking behind glove compartment is your Circuit Opening Relay, controlled by ignition switch start contacts (ST1). Its clicking indicates that your ignition switch is working, but COR is not part of "cranking" system
What you want to know is whether your starter relay is clicking or not
As abecedarian suggested:
(1)When starter relay clicks, check voltage on connector that plugs into solenoid (picture below).
(2) If you have voltage in (1) above)... check solenoid...
Connect battery PLUS directly into connector on solenoid (below).
Solenoid should thunk and starter should crank. Solenoid draws around 12 amperes. Use at least 12AWG wire.
If you have (1) voltage on wire above and (2) solenoid thunks:
Possibly bad starter relay contacts, or bad ST1 (start) contacts of Ignition switch.
This is how I cleaned my starter relay contacts (just carefully take metal case off): https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51952166
There could be too much resistance in ignition switch-starter relay - starter solenoid circuit, because Toyota made BOO-BOO of passing both starting relay control(coil) current (green line in schematic below) AND 12 amperes of solenoid current (orange line) through the ST1 contacts of ignition switch. This would hasten demise of ST1 contacts.
12 amperes solenoid current should not pass through ST1 contacts. To eliminate resistance of ignition switch ST1 contact and to help extend its life, I moved terminal 4 of starter relay directly to fused side of 40A fuse- UPSTREAM OF ST1 CONTACT.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Aug 9, 2012 at 02:06 PM.
have either of you figured this out yet ? i have an 87 also and the same problem
just wondering if anyone found a solution yet
This is what the Hayes manual doesn't tell you. There are two hot wires going to your ignition. One white and red from the 30 amp fl and one white wire from the 40 amp fl in the fuse block passenger side behind battery. I had power at the white and red like the Hayes manual showed in the schematic still no start, no power to relay. I could jump start solinoid. Hayes showed no second hot lead going to ignition so every thing looked ok, not. The main 80 amp fl was bad. The 30 amp feeding the white and red hot wire to the ignition is cut in before the 80 amp so it will still have power causing a clicking from the fuse box as you try to start the motor. False sign of progress. The 40 amp is after the 80 amp so it had no power and created the no start condition. Thanks to the Fsm I was able to get the proper wiring diagram and immediately found the issue. So if your having a no start no crank issue take out the multimeter and check the fl or unplug the ignition harness on the steering column and verify you have power to both the white wire and the white and resources wire.
I have the same thing…The charge ligh on the dash board is dim but still no crank
Originally Posted by dealsnorth
This is what the Hayes manual doesn't tell you. There are two hot wires going to your ignition. One white and red from the 30 amp fl and one white wire from the 40 amp fl in the fuse block passenger side behind battery. I had power at the white and red like the Hayes manual showed in the schematic still no start, no power to relay. I could jump start solinoid. Hayes showed no second hot lead going to ignition so every thing looked ok, not. The main 80 amp fl was bad. The 30 amp feeding the white and red hot wire to the ignition is cut in before the 80 amp so it will still have power causing a clicking from the fuse box as you try to start the motor. False sign of progress. The 40 amp is after the 80 amp so it had no power and created the no start condition. Thanks to the Fsm I was able to get the proper wiring diagram and immediately found the issue. So if your having a no start no crank issue take out the multimeter and check the fl or unplug the ignition harness on the steering column and verify you have power to both the white wire and the white and resources wire.
I have similar but the charge light Is dim but no crank and no power to the rest of the accessories. Any tips in how to solve it?
Hi everyone I’m new to the forum. I have the same problem no start no click. Bought new battery new alternator new ignition switch. My fuse link burn from alter to battery…but there was also some smell of burn wire coming from the dashboard I have pull off almost all the passenger’s front dashboard. When I turn the key to acc the only comes on is the charge light. Can anyone help me with this issue🧐 There’s it is new alternator new fuse link fuse and the ignition switch This is the only light and is so dim…
Can you see the electrons in the wires? No, they're too small .... So you use your multimeter. (No multimeter? No excuse for that! https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63759.html) Start at the battery. You should have about 12.6v (temperature dependent). Move to the nearby fuses. The top of an ATC fuse has two metal tabs. Check voltage to ground on each tab. If one has battery voltage and the other close to zero, you've found a blown fuse. Keep track of each one. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" and re-test the ones that were both near-zero. Keep moving through the circuitry until you find where there is no (or less than battery) voltage.
An ATC fuse is a "standard" 2-blade fuse. These (as well as almost all 2-blade fuses) have the metal "testing points" on top.
The big 30-100 amp fuses are technically PAL fuses, but Toyota confusingly calls them "fusible links."
[While I'm talking about these, note that they are bolted in through the holes in the blades; don't try to just pull them out.]
An ATC fuse is a "standard" 2-blade fuse. These (as well as almost all 2-blade fuses) have the metal "testing points" on top.
The big 30-100 amp fuses are technically PAL fuses, but Toyota confusingly calls them "fusible links."
[While I'm talking about these, note that they are bolted in through the holes in the blades; don't try to just pull them out.]
Start from the fuse box behind the battery and proceed next to the fuse box inside the cabin driver side ( under the dashboard) Keep looking for the power drainage 12 volts or less right Scope?
Start from the fuse box behind the battery and proceed next to the fuse box inside the cabin driver side ( under the dashboard) Keep looking for the power drainage 12 volts or less right Scope?
Can you see the electrons in the wires? No, they're too small .... So you use your multimeter. (No multimeter? No excuse for that! https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63759.html) Start at the battery. You should have about 12.6v (temperature dependent). Move to the nearby fuses. The top of an ATC fuse has two metal tabs. Check voltage to ground on each tab. If one has battery voltage and the other close to zero, you've found a blown fuse. Keep track of each one. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" and re-test the ones that were both near-zero. Keep moving through the circuitry until you find where there is no (or less than battery) voltage.
I did as you said to follow the steps and check the fuses for 12 voltage and start from the battery and work all the way through the cabin. Thnx Scope.
Nov 26, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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