I did the GM control module conversion on my 87 22r.

It fires pup and idles just fine. But when I hit the gas, it revs slow and starts to back fire and sputter.

The question that I have is, do I have to use a GM ignition coil or can I use the OEM ignition coil? Right now, I am using the OEM coil.


Thanks in advance............



Freaking love this!!!!!----->

 

as long as the parts are name brand quality part they should be fine. no parts master or master parts. those brands look good but won't hold up. i know of two repair shops and myself that found out the hard way. you might recheck your connections and the distributor parts.

 

Right now, I am using wire splitter. But since I now know the OEM module is no good, I will solder the plug onto the wires going to the module, to make sure I have a good signal going from the dist, going to the module.

 

Oh and the pick-up coil, cap, rotor, and coil are all new from AutoZone or Advance within the last two weeks.

 

As I reach down And touch you, I say RAISE BROTHA RAISE TO THE TOP!!!!

 

it almost sounds like a spark advance problem

btw, freaky avatar

 

I know, but it does it, even when the vac advance is not plugged up.



Thanks, I kinda like it.

 

Here's the latest:

It's kinda hard to start, almost as if the engine wants to turn backwards. That usually means the timing needs to be retarded some. And once its running and I rev the engine, it back-fires. That also means the timing needs to be retarded some. But set the timing at TDC, per the label on the hood.

Any ideas? Has anybody ran into this with the GM conversion? And I have had two different distributors on the truck, with the same result both times.

Also, am I suppose to use some kind of condenser with the setup?

 

You said you replaced the pickup coil in the distributor, so Im assuming you set the air gap properly on it. Also Im pretty sure if you use the stock ign coil that you have to use a resistor. Ive been running pretty well on the gm conversion, but Im using GM coil too. I started with a oil filled cheapy canister type coil, but now run an Accel super coil #140008, the difference is noticeable. also try switching the wires off the pickup around.

 

Finally some more help!!!!


Yes the air gap is set properly. Where do I get this resistor? And where does it need to be placed? If I had to go to a canister style coil, I was going to go with the Accel also, I just wanted to make sure that's what is needed, before I go buy something else. I have been buying and returning parts for my truck during the whole ordeal.

And I did switch the wires from the pickup, and it made no difference.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/robb/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-5.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/robb/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-6.jpg[/IMG]Alright, if you want to use the OEM coil you need a 1k ohm resistor. Radio shack or any electronics store should carry them. It attaches between the yellow wire and the module. also make sure you have the module on some type of heatsink, or it will burn out. Also make sure you have good grounds to the module. To be honest I wouldnt even mess with the resistor and stock coil. Get that Accel coil and call it a day.

 

better yet go read this thread. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179253

 

Handy bit of info there.

When I get back home from the Memorial day weekend, I'm going to buy the Accel, and go for it. I'll let you know how it comes out.

And I'll grab a piece of AL and build a heat sink for the module. Right now, it's just bolted tot he fender.

Thanks again!!!!!!

 

So here's the update:

I removed the stock coil and added an Accel coil. And I get the same results. This time I put a timing light on it and watched it as I revved the engine. At idle it's fine. When I rev the engine, the timing retards to ATDC. The higher the engine revs, the further it retards.

I wondering if I need to add the resistor anyway.

Also, I gutted the OEM module, and used the case as a heatsink.

Any ideas?

 

Before it is said, I'd like to restate that I did try replacing the distributor. And got the same thing. Actually with the new distributor it seemed to be worst then it is with the old one.

 

Pirate 4x4 has everything you need to know. Sounds like you have the wires mixes up like a + & - on the module.

James

 

is it actually worth doing this? performance gain or is this pretty much strictly a cost per unit in case of failure?

 

SUPER TRUCK RIDES AGAIN!!!!!

 

And you'd be exactly right. I switched the wires from the module and it fired right up and ran right. And I am ready to go. Finally I can quit losing my shirt on gas. My SS and my Lexus drink gas compared to my truck.

 

I'd have to say that it's worth it due to cost at the very least. I'm not sure about performance yet. But I don't know how much performance there is to be had out of a stock 22r. But I used an Accel coil, so I am sure I'll better mpg.