TopDawg_43

There is defiantly performance gains as well. My truck has 328K miles on it. My dad bought it brand new, and it has not run this well is years. I might even fix the exhaust now.

DeadRabbitsYota

Sweet man glad you got it goin. So your telling me the whole problem was you had the + and - hooked up wrong? Ive heard of and actually hooked the pickup wires wrong myself but not that. j/k Glad you got it worked out man. I would also agree that there is a little performance to be had by doing this mod. Throttle response is better in my opinion as well as smoothness in the higher rpm's. I did a trip this past weekend and pulled about 19 mpg, mixed highway and alot of 4 LO. Might be imagining things but I think It also helped on the inclines, dont know if its just more available spark to help with flooding or what.

TopDawg_43

Well kinda. When I first read up on the conversion, the post said it didn't matter. And when I first got it to fire up, and it acted funny, I switched them to see if it made a difference. But that was when I had the OEM coil. After I switched to the Accel coil, the wires apparently has to be connected a certain way.

Now that I have it running, I'm going to pull the harness and solider all of it together, so it's more of a permanent setup.

Throttle response is noticeable better. I had a slight hiccup that's not gone. And I'm sure I have gain some power as well. It starts up better also.




Come on everybody that helped me out

TopDawg_43

Well, as I stated earlier, throttle response is better and acceleration is smoother. And also, I can do cheap bolt-on up grades like Accel or MSD coil. I went with the Accel. And I am sure I will get better mpg. However, I have not been driving it long enough to say for sure yet.

flyingbrass

I'm glad you got this worked out. The thread at Pirate has enough replies with unresolved problems that I was wondering if this mod is feasible for most of us.

Someone knowledgeable (and that's not me) should do a writeup aimed at those of us who aren't electrically savvy.

$300 for a new ignitor is nuts.

flyingbrass

I'd like to wire this up in parallel with my stock ignition. Put the distributor wire on whichever setup I want to run.

Two reasons for this: 1) to compare performance, and 2) to have a backup. One thing that can render us totally screwed is a dead ignitor.

TopDawg_43

Same thing I was thinking. I was just about to order an aftermarket ignition box. And it still would have less then $300.

DeadRabbitsYota

Bumping an old thread with some more info. Ive been running this setup for awhile now, and think that it is definately a worth while mod. Especially the fact that you can replace all the parts for under 100 bucks. Also you can get the parts anywhere. I did figure out a good piece of advice though. If you do this mod DO NOT LEAVE IGNITION KEY ON WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING. I'm not 100% possitive but I think leaving the key on will fry your new coil in short order. Pretty sure with the key on the coil is getting voltage. I burned one up one day wheeling at slaughterhouse. Luckily when I switched to the Accel coil, I left the old oil filled coil mounted for a backup. When my coil took a turd, I switched the coil wire and off I went. Got a new Accel through warranty, and havent had a problem since.

TopDawg_43

That's funny. I ended up having to get a stock control module ($50 on CL). When I was running the GM setup, my truck was definatly faster and stronger, but it would cut out on me after about 10 min of driving. I was running a Accel also. I determined the issue was the coil. I changed the coil and the GM module at least twice, and still the same. I have not tired it again since. But I'm sure I will one day.

DeadRabbitsYota

huh. Do you remember by chance if you left your key on too much? Like listening to the radio and stuff? Pretty sure thats how I killed mine. still on the original gm module though. I might add that ive read that high vibration could possibly kill coils too, which i do have alot of. So what I did when I replaced the coil is took some spare vacuum hose and cut 1/4 pieces and put one on each corner of the coil. When you screw it down it compresses and makes a nice rubber mount. Anyone else had luck with this mod?

TopDawg_43

I doubt I had the radio turned on, seeing as how I still had the OEM radio in the truck, at the time.

You may be on to something there, with the rubber hose pieces. I had the coil zip-tied to the fender. It ran fine at first, then it just wanted to die on me, and I could not figure out why. The vibration may have killed to coil.

wv88toy

hey all new to this site but need help. what is the right air gap on a brand new pick up on a 88 22r motor? can't find it my manual and nobody in my area can tell me any help will be great. thanks

xxxtreme22r

What manual are you using? If it's not the FSM goggle it and download it. The spec is there. And what does that have to do with a GM module conversion?

wv88toy

i'm using the haynes manual for information,i'm new to this and not sure if i'm at the right page to ask for information. hope i didnt go to the wrong place

xxxtreme22r

Your in the right place but not the correct section. Goggle up Toyota FSM and download one closest to your year. Actually the one available based on your screen name is exactly for an 88.

P.S. Let the mods move your post to a new thread under this section. Don't start a new thread with he same question.

And welcome to Yotatech.

TopDawg_43

.012 is what I found. But I'd have to look that my Haynes and Chilton manual when I get home to be sure.

http://www.toyotamotorhomes.com/tune_up_specs.htm

kelly1450

Hi, I did this swap today with the factory coil and did not use the resister but the truck seems to run fine, do I need the resister and for what reason? Thanks for your time, Kelly.

bloodtypeyOta

what is the part number of the ignition module you used?

Inferno451

Do you realize this thread is from 4 years ago? It's unlikely he's still monitoring this thread.

swampfox

A ignition module for a late 70's Chevy v8 will work. I think AutoZone's part number is dr100 for example.