86 4runner Air Valve help/diagnosis
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
86 4runner Air Valve help/diagnosis
Had the truck overheat because of a rusted out freeze plug, upon disassembly of the motor noticed a little bit of oil/water sludge in the Throttle Body. Found out that the sludge got to the throttle body by way of the Air Valve hose. Is it possible that whatever separates the coolant from the air inside the Air Valve has ruptured? There is no oil/water mix under the oil filler cap. The engine is a 22re.
#2
Registered User
The auxillary air valve has no coolent lines running to it. It's electric. The throttle body does have coolant lines however. I would suspect that the coolant in the air valve came from a leak in the throttle body.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
I dont know when I was pulling the ac pump and the harmonic ballancer I took a closer look a the air valve and it has an electrical plug at the rear of it and two coolant hoses then the big hoses in the front which are obviously for air.
Stole this from another site: Mentioned the coolant lines in the last 2 sentences.
The problem is most likely in the air valve or the hoses that route the
bypassed air around the throttle body. Check the hoses to make sure they
are still attached and/or not broken or cracked. Check the resistance of
the heater coil resistance of the air valve at the connector (should be
around 38-60 ohms). With the engine warm, restrict the airflow through
the valve by pinching off one of the hoses. The idle speed should not
drop more than 50 rpm. You can even remove the valve and inspect it
visually. Cold, you should be able to see through the hose passages.
With the valve warm, the passage should be closed. I have used a heat
gun or hair dryer on the coil portion of the valve to check this.
Removal of the valve is simple, just a bolt or two, the air hoses, and a
few coolant hoses. Some coolant will leak out, so be prepared to catch
it. Clean up any spilled coolant, animals love it (except my dogs, they
have "shop experience").
Now I'm really confused
Stole this from another site: Mentioned the coolant lines in the last 2 sentences.
The problem is most likely in the air valve or the hoses that route the
bypassed air around the throttle body. Check the hoses to make sure they
are still attached and/or not broken or cracked. Check the resistance of
the heater coil resistance of the air valve at the connector (should be
around 38-60 ohms). With the engine warm, restrict the airflow through
the valve by pinching off one of the hoses. The idle speed should not
drop more than 50 rpm. You can even remove the valve and inspect it
visually. Cold, you should be able to see through the hose passages.
With the valve warm, the passage should be closed. I have used a heat
gun or hair dryer on the coil portion of the valve to check this.
Removal of the valve is simple, just a bolt or two, the air hoses, and a
few coolant hoses. Some coolant will leak out, so be prepared to catch
it. Clean up any spilled coolant, animals love it (except my dogs, they
have "shop experience").
Now I'm really confused
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