How much does the timming switch cost? thanks

 

Have a 1988 Toyota that won't start. Have put 2 new relays that hasn't helped. No fuses blown. Took the cold fuel injector out, As soon as you went to start it would spray once or twice then no more. Took the cold time switch out, cleaned it, put it in cold water and it read 43.0 oms. In hot water it went up to 81.3 OMS The coolant switch did not check anything. Got any idea what my trouble is?

 

Thanks for the help. Here's a video of my problem and solution.

 

be nice if had pix showing how resistance was measured

 

there is a link on the video description to another video that shows you how to do that.

 

Hi guys,
I'm finally replacing my CSI timer switch. Cold-start problem occurred again.
CSI that is currently there reads 30ohms cold (below 86 degrees. within spec), but the plastic part of the housing has come loose from the brass housing and rotates a little with.
I was already able to understand and perform the test for the replacement from Chefyota.

Do you know if there is any specified torque for tightening it? Could not find any spec on the FSM.

TIA

 

Thanks-- your video is really helpful.

 

I'm not here for assistance but I am here because I am having the same issue..1986 Toyota pickup 22RE 183K fresh rebuild and ran great for about 1000 miles, Starts and runs cold, once warm has a nasty idle then dies I got stranded(4 times now) Went through all the usual symptoms and even picked up a LCE fuel pressure gauge.to see if it was a fuel pressure issue. Fuel pressure is fine and even jumps up(5-6PSI) when FPR vacuum line is removed. also picked up a new green plug coolant sensor and tested the ohms before i even left the parts store. Fuel pressure does not drop after engine is shut off. bypassed F&B+ pump works great. I did see somewhere that it might be the backpack that sits on the coil (ICM). Does anyone have a way to test the Ignition control module?

 

Hi Rick,
Got same issue here; Starts well in cold morning, intermittent rough idle when warm after parking for a few minutes (but does not stall). Absolutely not a CSI nor fuel pressure issue. Let's take discussion to "rough idle when warm" thread.
I suspect: Coolant temp sensor reading does not correlate closely with ignition chamber temp where it really matters. Liquids and metal may lose heat at different rates. Need to monitor coolant temp sensor input into ECU when problem occurs - haven't checked yet, but I think a simple voltmeter tapped into that input would work.

If thread doesn't exist, yet, please start one. See you there.
Cheers!

 

It says I need 15 posts to start a thread. but the rough idle can be so many things, timing, distributor, spark plug, Air sensor, AFM, and so on. I'm going to pull and see if my cold start injector is staying on and flooding the engine. If not im going to start pulling my hair out.

 

LOL!
OK, I'll start one if not existing, yet and PM you the link...

 

Awesome thanks.

 

Hi Rick,
Sorry, not exactly same symptoms as yours because my issue is RE-starting after parking, and mine smooths out after a few seconds (i.e., as soon as I'm moving in parking lot.
Just search for threads with similar symptoms as yours and comment there, OR wait for you 15 posts.
Re: CSI, note that it only energizes while ignition switch is in START position, but possible for the valve to leak. You can start, however, by disconnecting it when starting warm.
Re: Fuel pressure, we installed fuel ...Starts and runs cold, once warm has a nasty idle then dies I got stranded(4 times now)...[/QUOTE]]pressure gage piggybacked on CSI. I would like to someday change this to electrical sender with read-out on dash.