85 4Runner 22RE Engine Problems
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
85 4Runner 22RE Engine Problems
Hey guys, I've been on this forum for a while and I really need some help.
For the last 2 years I've been begging my buddy to get a 4runner and told him they're great trucks and very reliable.
Well he picked up an 85 4runner with 200k miles and a rebuilt engine and he hasn't had anything but trouble since.
So far he's had to fix a stripped out spark plug, replace the egr, replace the cat, O2 Sensor, fuel pump, and just recently the head gasket went and he replaced the motor.
He had a shop install the motor along with water pump and a new clutch. So we were thinking it should be smooth sailing from there. Wrong
We're having trouble with it cutting out now, for the first 5 minutes of driving it will drive great then it will start cutting out, then it goes again. It only dies for like a second everytime.
I have no idea what it could be, my first guess would be the fuel pressure regulator since it already has a new pump and filter.
Please don't flame me to search, I've been through alot of threads already and I'm only trying to help a friend properly diagnose his truck's problem so he doesn't have to dump anymore money into this then he needs to.
Thanks
Kelley
For the last 2 years I've been begging my buddy to get a 4runner and told him they're great trucks and very reliable.
Well he picked up an 85 4runner with 200k miles and a rebuilt engine and he hasn't had anything but trouble since.
So far he's had to fix a stripped out spark plug, replace the egr, replace the cat, O2 Sensor, fuel pump, and just recently the head gasket went and he replaced the motor.
He had a shop install the motor along with water pump and a new clutch. So we were thinking it should be smooth sailing from there. Wrong
We're having trouble with it cutting out now, for the first 5 minutes of driving it will drive great then it will start cutting out, then it goes again. It only dies for like a second everytime.
I have no idea what it could be, my first guess would be the fuel pressure regulator since it already has a new pump and filter.
Please don't flame me to search, I've been through alot of threads already and I'm only trying to help a friend properly diagnose his truck's problem so he doesn't have to dump anymore money into this then he needs to.
Thanks
Kelley
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, he replaced the cap, rotor, and coil. Still having the same problems.
I also forgot to mention that it only does it when there's a load on the engine. When you push the clutch in, it will rev fine.
I also forgot to mention that it only does it when there's a load on the engine. When you push the clutch in, it will rev fine.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
K there are no codes, and the fuel pressure regulator is good. The cutting out actually went away after we replaced the coil, cap and rotor.
It still seems like it's a little down on power though. I'm thinking the timing might be off.
It still seems like it's a little down on power though. I'm thinking the timing might be off.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
K my buddy took the truck back to the guy who put the motor in and he says that it's the injectors that are causing it to run crappy.
He needs the truck so we can't have much down time. Because of this I don't think we can ship the injectors to Witchhunt to have them redone.
Instead I was looking at getting some remaned ones from RockAuto for $21 a piece.
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1550023
Those ones in particular. Do you think this would work? I'm thinking worst case we could just ship back the old injectors to Witchhunt and those will get him through the week. Or if anyone has any injectors for sale too that would work.
He needs the truck so we can't have much down time. Because of this I don't think we can ship the injectors to Witchhunt to have them redone.
Instead I was looking at getting some remaned ones from RockAuto for $21 a piece.
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1550023
Those ones in particular. Do you think this would work? I'm thinking worst case we could just ship back the old injectors to Witchhunt and those will get him through the week. Or if anyone has any injectors for sale too that would work.
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#10
Registered User
before you buy the rebuilt injectors make sure they come with the gaskets and tips. the plastic(?) tip, originally green but probably not anymore, are not available from toyota. Purchased a set of injectors through LC for my 92 2wd and they included all the gaskets and the tips as well. Pricey, but got a core charge back after sending in my old ones.
#12
Registered User
yep, that's the beast. under the front insulator/gasket you can see the small plastic tip sticking out. they get brittle over time. It looks like the injector already has all of the gaskets and insulators preinstalled, so the second set would be extras. The thing about the small 'o' ring is that it can only be used once. if you have to pull the injector back out of the fuel rail for any reason you will need another. It took several tries before we found thew method with the best results for us.
first we pulled the front seal off, being sure not to damage or lose the tips second we installed them into the bores in the intake, third was rubbing a little gas into the seal itself so when we bolted down the fuel rail with the injectors installed they slid right in without compressing the insulator. That is the rubber bushing below the o ring and above the electric connection.
good luck
first we pulled the front seal off, being sure not to damage or lose the tips second we installed them into the bores in the intake, third was rubbing a little gas into the seal itself so when we bolted down the fuel rail with the injectors installed they slid right in without compressing the insulator. That is the rubber bushing below the o ring and above the electric connection.
good luck
#13
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Little Rock, AR
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True that, i replaced all the seals on my injectors and the rubber seats at the injector end cost me $18 for 4 of them from toyota. Not to mention they are hard to find, thats the only place I could find them locally.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well ordered a set of injectors from LCEngineering and they got here in a day! Great service!
Put them in. Took about 2 hours. We didn't drain the coolant, we just clamped the small coolant line going to the throttle body shut, then unclamped it and hooked it back up.
Needless to say we turned the key on and started it up, and it immediately shot up to high on the Temp. Obviously it wasn't overheating, checked the wire going to the temp gauge right by the thermostat housing and it's all good.
Drove it around, and after about 5 minutes of driving it went to low for about 10 seconds then jumped to high, then low, then high. I'm guessing that the thermostat is opening and closing and causing this? Thermostat is like brand new, but idk if there's a wire we might of missed or anything. Any ideas? Thanks
Put them in. Took about 2 hours. We didn't drain the coolant, we just clamped the small coolant line going to the throttle body shut, then unclamped it and hooked it back up.
Needless to say we turned the key on and started it up, and it immediately shot up to high on the Temp. Obviously it wasn't overheating, checked the wire going to the temp gauge right by the thermostat housing and it's all good.
Drove it around, and after about 5 minutes of driving it went to low for about 10 seconds then jumped to high, then low, then high. I'm guessing that the thermostat is opening and closing and causing this? Thermostat is like brand new, but idk if there's a wire we might of missed or anything. Any ideas? Thanks
#15
Registered User
sounds like there's a bubble in your coolant system. Pull the radiator cap when the engine is cold and let it run a little while it's trying to warm up, usually this lets the system burp itself and pull in coolant to get rid of the trapped air.
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