1988 22re, 187k miles, 4wd....5spd.

She will not run over 65 mph. Running a 32x11.5X 15 tire. As far as i can tell from the tag on the firewall, shes geared at 4:10.... The tire size the problem?
EGR delete, new plugs and wires, and a new TPS

 

Flat ground at sea level?

 

Yes at sea level on level ground. Doesn't seem to want to take fuel in 4th or 5th gear.... Have to shift down to 3rd to build up any kind of speed
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Advance your timing

 

Or at least get a base reading and then see what it advances too with open throttle (timing light or a shop can do this).

If your timing is within spec, I would look at the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) next.

 

ok gents, I'll try in the mornning with the timing... it has a new TPS, that is correctly set...work 2nd shift, so usually im asking questions when most are at work, then cant reply till most are sleeping... Another question, driving along, foot on the pedal, she seems to "wake up", then shift to third, and not so much

 

If you are checking your timing with a timing light and it's set at 5 degrees or 12 degrees... advance it a couple of degrees and see if performance improves... you can always go back to your previous setting if your not comfortable with how much you've advanced it.... but its been my experience with the 22r that the timing light is a good tool to check where it's set not not necessarily a good way to set it for optimal performsmce...
at 5 degrees i have terrible acceleration, no power up hill, fuel mileage suffers... at 12 degrees acceleration is better, it climbs hills, improved fuel economy... you have to find the sweet spot your engine likes and run it...

 

i advanced the timing a cple degrees... alittle better, but idles way high. I adjusted the idle using the idle screw, all the way closed, then 1 complete round... idles at aprox 1000 rpm. Still not happy with the way shes running. If the clutch was worn out, it would act stupid in all gears, correct?

 

Yes... you'd probably smell it if it was a slipping clutch...
Advance a couple more and see if it improves... if it doesn't then go back to your last setting...

 

im gonna assume, im supposed to jump the terminals in the diagnostic port, then adjust the timing... or just throw the light on it, and turn the dizzy....

 

I've done it both ways... now i just put the timing light on it and turn the dizzy... i think it takes the ECU a while to figure out what's going on but i have seen no ill effects...
for what it's worth, i set my TPS by ear and shifting points( mine is a A340F) when I finally checked ot with a multimeter it was dead on in the specs...
if you turn your dizzy very slowly you can hear and feel the engine get in a bind... going both ways... it's a little easier to discern retarding than advancing because it's speeding up with advancing but that doesn't mean it's not fighting itself... there is a space in the turning that the motor is free, no bind, coasting along, like a sewing machine... smooth and fluid... lock it down play with the throttle and adjust again if needed... should be responsive when you crack the throttle, if its back firing ot fragging in the deceleration it's too retarded... if you shut the motor off and it cadillacs... its too advanced... bump the starter and she fires right up and dies, dead when you shut it off, its pretty dang close

 

give it another go

 

Make sure the throttle plate is opening up all the way when the pedal is pushed. Also check that the AFM opens all the way. At 187K miles I would also do a compression check too.

 

well, broke down and took it to a guy that works on mainly toyotas,,,, he said the timing chain had a lot of play in it, should be replaced. He said he put the light on it, set timing ( i was off alittle ) and when you gave it throttle, the timing mark was all over the place... guess im gonna learn how to replace it. I hate to pay what he quoated. Im no mechanic, but not affraid to turn wrenches either.

 

It's pretty straight forward after you get the head off... that's the tough part... remove the radiator for work space... tons of how to info... videos etc...
LCEngineering, yota1, 22re performance i think all have kits...

 

 

1: This doesn't read as "works mainly on OLDER Toyota's"..
2: These typically do not run with just the oil cap removed, it stands to reason it would be the same with the valve cover off right(?), which means the chain tensioner is not under pressure from the oiling system if the pump isn't turning.
3: It has an electronic spark advance, this means the timing is going to jump back and forth as the computer tries to put it where it is programmed to put it..

There are two specifications you will want to find in your FSM. The first is the pad thickness of the tensioner. The second is the chain stretch.

You maybe thinking " well I've got it apart I might as well change it ", while this is your choice I will just point out that the one that is on it is already bedded in and likely has a nice polish on the moving parts.

 

85 gps on 4:11 31x10.5 is a valid baseline in cold weather. 22-re

https://youtu.be/vVuPe83NTUg

 

well, after a long week of waiting, finally got the truck back. After a new timing chain, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, tps, and fuel filter ( all needing replaced) Very little improvement in the way the truck runs. I was kinda hoping that maybe the AFM was bad.... nope, tested fine. IDK, at a loss for the moment. I havent had this truck very long at all, but tired of throwing parts at her.

 

not that im aware of