Also, you don't want to break in a new or newly rebuilt motor with synthetics.

 

Nope, I use 10K, thou many switch at 5 or even 3K... Amsoil says one reccommened oil change interval.... I just like 10K

 

Geez, there's so many opinions out there. I was told two fill and drains on a new or rebuild before switching. Hmmm....whatever's correct, I don't know. But, I suppose two couldn't hurt.

 

Yeah.... you probally cant go wrong with one fill and drain... I trust what amsoil says, but I just do 10K... helps with mileage alignment anyhow... I am OCD about filters on the 5K and oil to match.... even if I only get 11months out of it...

 

"hels" with mileage alignment? What's "hels"? And what's OCD?

 

hels=helps... OCD.. obcessive compulsive

 

Oh, okay....now I get it. Yeah, I'm a bit that way myself. Haha!

 

Interesting...
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...1&categoryID=1

Mind you, I'm not advocating one brand or another. Just thought this little bit of info would be informative.

 

More...
http://messages.yahoo.com/Recreation...9&tof=13&frt=2

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

 

Redline & Mobil One are both good synthetics; I use Mobil One and had an oil analysis done. They recommended I could go 10k between oil changes with a filter change @ 5k. I use the 15w-40 as it resists high oil burn-off. If I use the lighter weights, it just burns too much. After my current rebuild is done, I'll try a lighter weight oil.

You can get an oil analysis done for as little as $22 at http://www.blackstone-labs.com/<br /...o your engine.

 

They recommend you change the filter every 5, and the oil every 10?

 

That's correct. I also found this, which was particularly interesting:

By-Pass Oil Filtration

We receive many oil samples from clients who don't understand what is required to run unusually long oil use intervals in their engines. The accumulation of wear metals, blow-by materials, and oil oxidation products in their oils is alarming. It has been our experience one cannot simply add oil of a particular brand or base stock and expect it will be useful for an extended period of time, lubricating, cleaning, and cooling as required. Oils that become contaminated need to be changed promptly. In our opinion, there are no magic oils or additives.

There are, however, auxiliary systems you can add to your engine's lubricating system that will keep the oil clean enough to use over an extended period of time. By-pass filtration units are the most common system used for this purpose.

In-line oil filtration, which comes installed on your engine from the factory, filters oil entering the engine down to roughly 30-40 microns (millionths of a meter). This is about as finely as in-line filtration can filter, because when the oil is cold or the filter is partially plugged, a finer filter would cause too great a pressure drop, forcing open the filter by-pass valve and allowing unfiltered oil to circulate through the engine.

By-pass filtration works differently. When this type of auxiliary system is installed, some of the sump oil by -passes the in-line filter system, passing continually though a by-pass filter and then returning to the oil sump . Using this method, sump oil is constantly being cleaned any time the engine is running, and it can be filtered down to a very fine size. All you have to do to maintain the system is occasionally change the by-pass filter.

Not only do the by-pass filtration units cleanse the sump oil of blow-by and oxidation products, they also reduce wear metals and silicon accumulations, both of which are abrasive. Oil does not wear out. Its usefulness is limited by contamination. By-pass filtration removes most of the contaminates.

How long can an oil fill be run using by-pass filtration? We've heard claims of large (Class 8) diesels going 1 ,000,000 miles on the same fill of oil with no harm done to the engines. We have analyzed oils which have been in service 240,000 miles and found nothing unusual in the analysis, other than higher than average iron and lead (from steel parts and bearings), and these wear accumulations were not intolerably high.

After having run many tens of thousands of diesel engine oil samples, it is our opinion that a by-pass oil filtration system is one of the most important factors in extending oil drains. If you are interested in extended oil drains, we suggest you investigate adding this type of system to your engine.

 

On my 03 I run Amsoil 5w-30, change the filter every 5K and the oil every year (about 15K), havent had the chance to do an oil analysis yet, but I will.... I do plan on adding a dual remote with bypass...

My 07 will get a dual remote and bypass at 10K when I go to synthetic...


Thats great info TN.... One thing to add if you spend good money on oil filters, like the Amsoil EaO it filters 98.7% at 15 microns, better than any other full flow I have seen... their bypass filters 98.7% at 2 microns, and most soot at 1 micron (diesel folks)... wear starts at 5ish micron... so if you remove all wear causing particles how long do you think your oil/motor will last And the oil looks like it has 2K at 20K....

But you really cant run a good oil and a crappy filter, you wont get the service lift... but a crappy oil and a good filter is better than crappy oil and crappy filter, but a good filter like the EaO's is $15.30, so most people wont run it unless they run the good oil.... that filter is rated at 25K/1year... so match it with a 25K/1year oil and your good to go.. and thats without bypass... just a stock motor under "normal" service... shoot even under "severe" service your good for 12.5K/1year... so most of us can still change oil annually and call it good...

Here is the easiest by-pass to add...instructions

BMK-13

 

http://www.wefilterit.com/

I put one both my 4rnrs several years ago. I have one for the motor on the '86, and two on the '92....for the motor and one for the auto tranny. I have ones for the fuel for both, as well. I just haven't installed them yet. All I have to do to change the element is buy some toilet paper....once a month or so. Found a guy out of Allen, TX who sold me some used filter housings. He also set me up with all the fittings..... real inexpensive like!

To add, I recall it's also possible to run these units for the coolant system, but I don't recall enough about how it's done to explain it.

 

I'm just thinking of how much fun it would be to be underneath, twisting off the filter with hot oil running down my arm and gushing out while I quickly grab my new clean filter and spin it on. I would probably find myself using the F word once or twice. What, exactly, is the procedure? Or is this only for the newer engines that have the filter up top? :-)

 

you change it ib the morning... cool, and usually won't spill.

 

You won't get any more oil spilling whether the crankcase is full or empty. All that spills is what's in the filter anyway.

 

Roger that.