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4th Starter! Just "CLICK"

Old 10-21-2005, 07:08 PM
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4th Starter! Just "CLICK"

Starter problems - After each starter was installed ( just had 4th OEM put in), within 3 to 5 days just hear "CLUCK" with ever key turn. I have a 86 22RE. This problem began when low mil. engine was installed. Mechanic & I are frazzled. He changed wiring to battery, batt & alt test good. Last time battery drained as it sat 5 days with only click sound. Thanks for any ideas???
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Old 10-21-2005, 07:16 PM
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you check the starter relay?


pat
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Old 10-21-2005, 07:39 PM
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Mechanic hasn't mentioned RELAY

In all this , I've never paid him for a relay. I was just reading the other posts and it seems some engines don't have starter relays??? Or did I misunderstand, and if I did how do I know my 86 Dolphin 22RE RV would have one? Plus , Pat, what's the relay do? Sorry, I'm a woman, but would love to pass on any wisdom I gain from this....Thanks again!!!
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Old 10-22-2005, 11:21 AM
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i'm pretty sure 22REs did not use a starter relay in 1986. that is a bit of a design flaw, though.

you can think of a relay as a second switch that can handle a higher current than the switch you actually "flick" (or the ignition switch you turn to start your motor).

in high current circuits, you can't just use a regular switch because the current would fry it. thus, the switch you flick is actually connected to a relay. when you turn the switch "on", it sends power to the relay which is essentially a magnetic switch. the power creates a magnetic field that closes the relay and then the relay, in turn, sends power to whatever it is that is ultimately being powered (the starter solenoid in this case).

the current required to engage the starter solenoid is not huge, but also not tiny. if there is no starter relay, this current runs through the ignition switch. over time, it can wear out the switch.

(btw, the starter solenoid itself is a type of heavy duty relay. the current required to actually turn the starter motor is pretty huge. the solenoid is used so that that large current flows through it instead of a swtich or regular relay.)

i'm no sure if this is your problem, but here is a link that describes it in more detail and shows how to add a starter relay to the system. you might want to share it with your mechanic.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions

has your mechanic taken any of the starters apart to see what is happening inside of them? are the solenoid contacts getting fried? is something in the motor itself getting fried?
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Old 10-22-2005, 12:06 PM
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usually clicking is caused by burned starter solenoid contacts. you can file them and they usually work good as new.

though, i would be suspicious of other problems if this problem is happening quickly.
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Old 10-22-2005, 05:09 PM
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Thanks for the super easy teaching and other ideas too. I love reading this site!!!!!!
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Old 10-23-2005, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by LittleRedToyota
the current required to engage the starter solenoid is not huge, but also not tiny. if there is no starter relay, this current runs through the ignition switch. over time, it can wear out the switch.

(btw, the starter solenoid itself is a type of heavy duty relay. the current required to actually turn the starter motor is pretty huge. the solenoid is used so that that large current flows through it instead of a swtich or regular
While the solenoid current is nowhere near what the starter motor draws, it is still on the order of about 20 amps! Aside from the link on my page for adding (or rewiring) a starter relay, see also the section on a quick test to isolate the source of the problem:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
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Old 10-24-2005, 04:11 PM
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I told my mechanic. He said the solenoid is in the new OEM starter. He will look into relay thing. One $$$ step at a time. I suggested he look at your input on web.
If this doesn't work I'll post again. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 10-27-2005, 05:37 AM
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Any updates? Have you had the engine rebuilt at anytime within the last 2 years? If so I would check to make sure the ground wire from the starter is going to the block and not the frame. I had the same problems with my old Blazer after the engine rebuild and we just grounded the wires straight to the frame. Normally it would not be too big of a deal but remember where the main battery ground is.... the block right? From what the Master Tech told me was that the frame ground has many obstacles to go through to have a "good solid ground" such as bushing, rust, etc. The engine block has a solid ground to it with few resistance factors. Maybe this helps. If not keep us updated.
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