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4Runner won't start with new plugs/wires!

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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 11:51 AM
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JohnRaven's Avatar
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From: Minnesota
4Runner won't start with new plugs/wires!

Help!!!

1992 4Runner 3VZE with automatic tranny

I moved my truck this morning to put in my new plugs and wires.
After getting everything hooked up, I go to start it and it turns over fine, makes a funny noise though... She trys to start, but she just wont! One thing though... Plugs and NGK Iridium IX's and NGK Premium wires.
NGK has the wires numbered for which cylinder they go to, but wire #5 is too short to reach cylinder #5. So I just switched wire #5 with wire #3. On the plugs and on the rotor cap(?) w/e that thing is called.

Help? anyone??? what did I do wrong???? I need this baby running by tomorrow!

Last edited by JohnRaven; Mar 28, 2008 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 12:42 PM
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From: austin, tx
Best guess - confirm firing order with a manual.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 02:44 PM
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From: Maple Ridge BC
The Distributor Cap has the #'s on the top for which cyl they go to.The left hand side of the motor is 1,3 and 5. Right 2,4 and 6. Adjust your timing manually by centering it on the "notch",where the distributor meets the block,then work it from there.Should be no more than 1/2" to the right of the notch after timing it.Sometimes a tune up changes the way your motor works after your old stuff is out.

Last edited by WestCoastMoose; Mar 28, 2008 at 02:48 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 06:40 PM
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From: Minnesota
Thanks moose! I'll try that!
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 07:40 PM
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Okay, I tried that. Thanks for the idea moose! It seemed to help a little bit... it really sounded like it was gonna start there a few times... But I'm afraid I flooded earlier today when I tried starting it and even more so tonight...Oops So I took all the plugs out, they were a little wet and I could smell gasoline on them. Once I took them out, 'smoke' was lightly coming out of the spark plug holes on a few of the cylinders. Bad? flooded? normal? I did try starting it multiple times after adjusting the timing... so I'm sure it got a little warm in there. I'm going to let it dry out tonight and put the plugs back in in the morning and see what happens from there.

Suggestions?
Comments?
Thoughts?
Bueller? Bueller?
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 07:52 PM
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From: Maple Ridge BC
Sounds more like you have knocked a vacuum hose off/loose, or an electrical connection. Check everywhere you were,and push every connection together. Pull lightly on the vaccum hoses.If they come off with a slight tug, put on new ones. In fact, not a bad idea to replace all hoses. Maybe a $5 invesment for piece of mind.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 07:56 PM
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From: Valencia, California
When I did my spark plugs, I ripped my intake hose trying to take it off and just a tiny rip and it would not run.

This forced me to do the ISR mod because the replacement hose (the one that looks like an accordian on the TB) was expensive.

The plug wires should fit nicely. If not, there has to be something wrong.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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From: Valencia, California
Oh yeah I also got the NGK Irridium IX's. They seem to fit well with my truck.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 08:09 PM
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From: Minnesota
Alright, thanks guys. I'll look at all the hoses AGAIN lol... The intake tube that connects right to the throttle body DOES have a crack/rip in the seam, but there should be enough there to still seal it. It ran fine like this before, and the crack isn't any worse then it was this morning...
btw, I have my EGR valve disabled. Would this make any difference?

Hose pics...



Last edited by JohnRaven; Mar 28, 2008 at 08:12 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 09:36 PM
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From: Puyallup, WA
I had the exact same problem when I changed my plugs. Turned out that the truck wouldn't turn over because I didn't plug the MAF sensor back in. I took it off to get to the 3 driver's side plugs. If it is plugged in - try unplugging it and then plugging it back in again. It's worked for me before.
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 06:00 AM
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From: Minnesota
I GOT IT RUNNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS GUYS!!!!

I'm not sure exactly what it was, but I'm sure it was a few different problems.... I disconnected and then reconnected the VAF sensor. Thanks for the tip devldogs55! Thanks for the tip on adjusting the distributor moose! I didn't even know you could do that! Lol! After getting the plugs back in, she fired right up! LONG LIVE MY 3.slow!!!!

Thanks for all your helpful info guys! I really appreciate it!
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 07:59 AM
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From: Puyallup, WA
Good to go! Glad she's back up.
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 03:40 PM
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From: Minnesota
Alright, well, I drove it to work and back today...it 'seems' running okay...but its little rough at idle... Does anyone have a picture of where they have their distributor adjusted to? I've played with it a little bit, but it doesn't seem to really affect it any...
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 06:10 AM
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From: manassas va
on the distributor it has 2 notches in it align them 2 up and its in time as long as the distributor has not been taken out of the vehical befor
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 06:40 AM
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From: Maple Ridge BC
Setting it at the notches will only take you to TDC( Top Dead Centre). Move the dist towards the firewall, and that makes it BTDC(Before).Conversely,the other way is ATDC(After). The timing is BTDC. Try about 1/4-3/8 " between notches. Shouldn't be any more than that.
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 05:56 PM
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Hi Guys, I have an issue with my 1992 4Runner. The truck cranks but will not start. I tested and replaced the igniter, ECM, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires. Tested the VAF sensor which tests out fine. I tested the Main EFI Relay, checked all fuses and everything seems to check out. I have a spark at all plugs. I am thinking that the only thing I haven't checked is the timing belt to see if everything lines up. I have good fuel pressure and can smell the fuel after cranking the engine. I tested the distributor and it passes according to the workshop manual. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
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