Recently ive had a problem with my 4runner not shifting. Its a 1993 v6 manual trans 4x4.
It started happening about a week ago. My 4runner just didnt want to shift with the clutch peddle all the way in. It did not want to go into gear. But when i turn my engine off it will go in gear easier. But if i put it in gear and start it up it wants to move with the clutch peddle pushed in.
I just had the master and slave replaced on the clutch and its still doing it.
It just locked up on me tonight after i picked it up today from the shop.
I am very very upset and confused as to what is going on with it.
Anyone got any ideas?

 

IF you just had the master & slave replaced, I'd go back to the one who fixed it. Sounds like they didn't bleed the line out properly.

Another possibility is that the bushing/ring in the shifter may need replacing (this really doesn't sound like YOUR problem, but it CAN cause shifting issues). This is a quick & cheap fix.

 

Thnx man, It also felt like there was still some roughness in shifting when i first got it back from the shop. Before it locked up again.

 

also check the mounting bracket for the clutch pedal. I hear they crack and allow just enough play to keep the clutch from working properly.

 

Does it go into gear better if you rev it a little?
If so then I'm in the same boat. I can feel the tranny gears when I shift. I just replaced the CMC and slave, Is the correct bore size for the MC 5/8ths on a 90 4x4 3.0? I don't mean to hijack but It's real frustrating.

 

i guess it doesnt help to pump the piss out of the clutch. My bros truck did that after it was sitting for a lil while....so it isnt the same scenario but hey it could happen.

 

Sounds like an issue to take back to the guys who fixed it, I had the same thing in my old Mazda Mx6 Race Car, and it was just clutch seals , the pedal was useless, the car wouldnt shift while running, and sounds just like yuor problem, we replaced some leaky seals and lines on the slave cylinder and got it ship shape, if you've replaced the slave cylinder, I'd have those boys take another look at it...on the house of course.

 

This can save you some time and money if you Check the cluch peddle bracket, Just to the highleft of where the pushrod goes through the firwall, If you see the slightest cracks going from near the firewall stud and one of the stress relife holes in the bracket, You need get a newone or have it welded and re-inforced.
This gets missed alot of the time and mainly happens with taller drivers who push the peddle to the right alittle when clutching.

 

What about the throwout bearing?

 

naaa its a fluid related issue

 

Just take it back to the shop, and tell them when you push the clutch all the way it isn't fully disengaging. The master cylinder's rod is threaded, and can be threaded in or out from the bracket attached to the pedal, which changes the engagement height of the pedal. This will fix your problem.

 

Well I found out what my problem was, Leaky slave cylinder. I borrowed my buddys power bleeder and discoverd the slave is leaking. I just need to find the time to install