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4runner rear patch panels available today

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Old May 6, 2018 | 04:39 PM
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Melrose 4r's Avatar
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4runner rear patch panels available today

Since i am doing bodywork on my truck and have bought two different rear patch panels, i thought i would make a post showing photos of each and provide some details of the only two panels i found available for 1984-1989 4runners on the market today. If anyone knows of other metal panel options please let us know.

Last edited by Melrose 4r; May 6, 2018 at 04:41 PM.
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Old May 6, 2018 | 05:28 PM
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First I bought this patch panel off Ebay. The seller is millsupplyinc and the panel is just about $50 plus shipping.

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Old May 6, 2018 | 05:31 PM
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I wasn't terriby impressed by the quality of the creases and I want to do as little bodywork as possible so I decided to set that one aside and try the Wolf Steel panel from Canada.

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Old May 6, 2018 | 05:33 PM
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Here are close up shots of two areas that will have to be welded in the fitment process.




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Old May 6, 2018 | 05:37 PM
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I have decided the Wolf Steel panel is the one I will use. My rust is only confined to the front of the wheel well and some at the lip in the center so I won't need the rear half.
Feel free to ask questions and I'll see if I can answer them.
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Old May 6, 2018 | 10:25 PM
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I'll need to do something like this soon.
Why did you discard the front fenders option for the rear fenders?
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Old May 7, 2018 | 05:44 AM
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I would do something like this but the body mounts are dying. NY road salt for the melting / rust process.
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Old May 7, 2018 | 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SomedayJ
I'll need to do something like this soon.
Why did you discard the front fenders option for the rear fenders?
Front fenders - cutting a left front fender to repair a right rear arch may be a good option for some but after looking at it, it depends on the level of rot damage you have.
If you just need to repair the fender lip, it may be the best option. But the bulge in the fender above the lip is taller on the rear than front and the contour is different.
It may still be OK, but depends and like I said, I wanted to choose the one that would require the least amount of fab work for me.
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Old May 7, 2018 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by skypilot
I would do something like this but the body mounts are dying. NY road salt for the melting / rust process.
I know how you feel...Mass puts 4 different combinations of car killing chemicals on the winter roads! That's why my truck only gets driven when the roads are clean.
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Old May 8, 2018 | 04:42 PM
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wow ....

be assured .. if you have a "little" rust ... there is much more that isn't seen

Last edited by slacker; May 8, 2018 at 04:45 PM.
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Old May 8, 2018 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by slacker
wow ....

be assured .. if you have a "little" rust ... there is much more that isn't seen
What he said! And that goes double for frames. I have to shake my head when I see people putting a lot of work into cleaning and painting the outside of their frames when the rust is working overtime to eat the frame from the inside out. I have cut open a couple of frames to weld in new sections and I have seen the destruction. That said, I would never discourage anyone from doing whatever it takes to breath new life into these great old trucks.

@skypilot - There is a pretty impressive thread in these forums by a guy who replaced a big section of the floor and at least one body mount on his 1985 Xtra Cab pick up. I am taking it as inspiration. It's caused me to change my mind about junking my 1984 Xtra Cab. It has rotted holes in the foot well on the drivers side and the nearby body mount is totally gone. The inner and outer rocker panels are bad as well as the rear cab corners. And of course the frame is worthless. So it's basically just a cab with a bad floor, but that is the part that has the VIN numbers and I am picturing myself walking into the DMV one day and not too distant future to renew the registration and put that truck back on the road. I will be happy if I can make it work again even if I don't do a perfect, show quality, restoration. And who knows, I may learn enough the first time around to go back in and do a true oem sheet metal restoration once I find a donor cab to supply all the parts (a pristine floor, body mounts and cab corners).

Also, I cannot recommend highly enough, The YouTube channel of Arthur Tussik the automotive body repair genius. This guy takes the most amazingly wrecked cars and rebuilds them to look like new again. He's in Eastern Europe somewhere and the stuff he's doing wouldn't be legal in the United States or most of Europe, but his skills are beyond question. Give his YouTube channel a look and be inspired.

Last edited by wrenchtech; May 8, 2018 at 07:55 PM.
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Old May 8, 2018 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Melrose 4r
Here are close up shots of two areas that will have to be welded in the fitment process.

In the last few days I was looking at those same sources for parts to rebuild my 84 Xtra Cab. I think I would take a chance with the cab corners and rockers from Wolf Steel for my project.

Keep up the good work! A first generation 4runner is absolutely worth the effort. I'm looking forward to see your progress.
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Old May 9, 2018 | 04:46 AM
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I come at this from the musclecar (first gen camaros) hobby. Some of the cars getting rebuilt today are beyond wasted, but more parts are available than for our trucks.
same problems, some repro panels are good, others suck, OEM best. Sometimes you have to fab pieces. So I've seen enough in the last 35 years to know mine is in amazing shape compared to many. Having never been driven on salty winter roads sure helps.
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Old May 9, 2018 | 05:25 AM
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Interesting thread! Can you upload a couple of photos of your 4R rear panels to see the extension of the rust repair you have to do?
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Old May 9, 2018 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by SomedayJ
Interesting thread! Can you upload a couple of photos of your 4R rear panels to see the extension of the rust repair you have to do?
see my build thread post #198 for a photo of the worst of it.
i'll post more photos there as I go.
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Old May 9, 2018 | 12:13 PM
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I see what you have to repair now:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52391336
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Old May 9, 2018 | 06:02 PM
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Wrenchtech:: That fellow is Russian, and yes his repairs are illegal in the USA now(rule changes) and Europe. In Russia cars are much more costly and the repair economics are different.

I do not have the tools or the metal working skills to recreate the body mounts. The other stuff I'm picking up on.
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 03:39 PM
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Hi Melrose, I've got an 84 and I'm going to need to do a welding job like you have done on the back fender. Do you still recommend Wolf Steel for a panel supplier? How did it come out in the end? This will be my first go at it. Also, I need to repair some rust around the gas inlet nozzle. Do you have any ideas for metal suppliers for that area? I'm a little nervous about blowing myself up. Not sure if there's a safe technique for welding that area.

I'm in MA too. Close to Worcester.

Last edited by fl4848@protonmail.co; Oct 28, 2020 at 03:40 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by fl4848@protonmail.co
Hi Melrose, I've got an 84 and I'm going to need to do a welding job like you have done on the back fender. Do you still recommend Wolf Steel for a panel supplier? How did it come out in the end? This will be my first go at it. Also, I need to repair some rust around the gas inlet nozzle. Do you have any ideas for metal suppliers for that area? I'm a little nervous about blowing myself up. Not sure if there's a safe technique for welding that area.

I'm in MA too. Close to Worcester.
Hey, yeah i still think the wolf steel patch panels are the best and they offer the panel in the gas door area also. I’m pleased with the way mine came out and would use them again. I was very concerned about welding near the gas tank also. Removing it would be best. I’m not sure what a pro would do. Post up a few pics of your 4r.
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 05:37 PM
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Just drop the tank and move it some place safe. Do people weld around gas tanks all the time; YES. Is safe; NO. its not that hard to remove and put back when you are done.
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