Received the switched ground version for my '91 4Runner 2 days after ordering it from Roger;

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...OnLineOrdering

Installed it this morning and found it to be a really easy install with the harness being of good quality.

Prior to changing to the new harness, I measured the stock harness at the bulb with the engine off and found the headlights were only getting 10.58 volts. I have had 80-100 H4's in for years and while they were brighter than the stock units, I never really thought they were as bright as they should be compared to my 100 watt off road aux lights. Well, after installing this harness voltage jumped up by a big 2.50 volts at the same measuring point bringing the voltage just above 13v!! This should really fire up those 80-100's and increase the life as a bonus (read the link completely... Roger is a smart guy when it comes to electrical, probably other stuff too)

I can now rest at ease knowing the original harness will not burn-up from over current draw from the bulb upgrade, brighter lights, better wire, full functionality, super easy install, what else can one ask for for $44 including shipping!

Thanks for the great service and harness Roger.

Bill

 

I recently got Roger's harness too, and it dosent work. I think its because the harness is for a switched ground system,a dnt he 4Runner is a switched power. Im waiting for him to et back on me as to what to do.

 

it doesnt work because you bought the wrong harness... not roger's fault at all

he's back..........

 

I bought that setup too (switched ground). i went from 11.46 - 12.25. that and the sylvania silverstars, man i can see everything at night

 

I found this on Roger's website.

So I used a pair of T-Taps and a short jumper wire to connect the White and Grey wires together, and walla...it works..

 

Roger Rules

 

I need to get one of these. My headlight suuuuck! Sounds like its a pretty good product.

 

A couple of years back I bought NWOR light harness. It works perfectly. I also upgraded to Hella 6064 headlamps that accpet the H4 bulb. This was a plug and play deal and the only thing I had to do was mount the relays and that is it. Is this harness I bought the same as the one mentioned? Another thing I like about the harness I got was if you turn your high beams on the low beams dont turn off giving you more light. The relays were the GM weather pack connectors with Hella relays. Now I'am running stock 55w/60w H4 bulbs and they are super bright. I did have 80/100 but I was blinding too many people. I highly recommend this mod for ANY body on any car. It is well worth it.

James

 

^I went and checked and when my high beams are are the low beams are left on too...

 

Man there must have been a run on roger's headlight harnesses. I got a set up 10 days ago.
Definately an improvement in illumination, even with my stock lights.

 

Good to hear the feedback, though I've alwasy had GREAT luck with anything from Roger. I plan to install Roger's harness when I replace my sealed beams with H4 setups.

 

On Roger's site he mentions that the Hella H4 units aren't the best. But, he got them years ago and stuck with them. What replacement halogen units are preferable these days?

 

Read a little closer, it is not that the Hella Vision Plus are not good, they are quite good "for a DOT approved headlight". If you want to stick with a DOT lamp, they are probably as good as the DOT light pattern regulations will allow. If you want a better light pattern and don't mind a non-DOT approved lamp, then the e-code (European spec) lamps are supposed to be much better.

I used to run a non-DOT headlight and I can't really tell much difference to the Hellas I have now, but that was about 15 years ago, so maybe the e-codes have improved. I got pulled over once with the non-DOTs for a headlight out fixit ticket and had to end up eating the fine because I could not have the headlight certified operational at a "Calif. headlight inspection station" since they were not DOT.

I run 55/100 H4 bulbs in my Hellas and that works great, 55W low beams keep the headlights from blinding others, but hit the high beams and "let there be light"! I consider the 55/100s semi-legal, they'll look and test normal on low beam and with the high beams, you are only using those when there is no oncoming traffic. I carry some of the 55/100 H4 bulbs now if folks are having trouble finding them.

Good idea to test your headlight connectors before ordering, that way you'll know for sure if you have switched ground like most of the older Toyotas or switched power like some of the newer ones. Also, you'll be able to see ahead of time what sort of light output increase you can expect given the voltage you measure with your existing lights and wiring. If you are already getting a decent voltage, under load, to the headlights, then you don't need to upgrade the wiring. But if you are seeing on the order of a 2 - 2.5 volt drop, you can expect to double the light output of your existing headlights.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f105/4crawler-com-roger-brown-upgraded-headlight-harness-73133/

 

Thanks Roger. Yes, I'd like to stay DOT. I just noted where you said,

"They just swap into the Hella H4 housings (mine are the DOT Vision Plus - maybe not the best but they are paid for - purchased from JC Whitney for about $35/ea. about 5 years ago . "

and thought there must be something better by now. I checked JC Whitney and they sell other light housings. But, I didn't see anything that was DOT other than the Hella. When I realized that the HID light on my bicycle was better than the headlights in my truck I started thinking about upgrading. Looks like I'll be getting Hella.

With the light output of all the HID on the roads these days I can't imagine that we'd get hassled much with H4 as long as they're adjusted correctly. I can't say that I've seen 100 watts shining down the road lately though.

Thanks again for the guidance. I'll check whether I have any significant voltage drop.

 

I mainly put that note there to acknowledge that there are better headlights out there, since it seems if you say any 1 kind of light is good, you get 100 folks saying theirs are better. I like the Hellas, they are good (enough), they are street legal, they have a very good low beam cutoff, they are decent lead crystal glass. I've run the ones in my 4Runner now for 8 years and I think they were in my VW for about 6 years before that, so they hold up a long time.

There is only so much that a lamp mfg. can do with the DOT-mandated light pattern, so I doubt you'll find anything significantly better in a DOT lamp.

I stick with the DOT lamps since I want to try and minimize any gotcha's on my turck. I recently lowered my fog lights because they actually ended up a few inches above the state vehicle regulations after I installed my body lift (I had them installed on the body). Side benefit of that job was the fogs work 10 times better now that they are like 18" off the deck than they did about 40+" up in the air. So I guess some of those silly vehicle regs. are worthwhile!

 

Like this works fine:



More info:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...s.shtml#SGtoSP

 

Alright, I'm a complete idiot when it comes to things like this. What exactly does this accomplish? Thanks!

 

As noted on the web page:

" It is also possible to "convert" the switched ground harness to work in a switched power mode.

* To do this, simply tie the gray and white wires together inside the "black box" or you can unsolder and remove the diode connected to the blue wire and reverse the diode connected to the gray wire inside the box, or even simpler, take a short length of wire and add a male spade lug to each end and insert into the conector where the "black box" used to attach (see picture "B" below)
o NOTE: Wire colors may vary from harness to harness, so what you are trying to do with the above connection is to hook the wire that comes off the old headlight LOW BEAM pin (normally a WHITE wire) to the low beam relay's "85" coil pin (normally a GRAY wire). If your wires are a different color, disregard the color descriptions and go by the "what it connects to" description. You want to get power from the LOW BEAM connector to the RELAY COIL.
o Either method lets current flow the "other way" through the low beam relay to let it operate normally."

Basically converts this "Switched Ground Harness"



Into this "Switched Power Harness"



Essentially eliminated the block diode (D1) in the upper diagram and send power directly from the low beam wire to the relay so it'll work in a switched power scenario. This is for folks who inadvertenly order the wrong harness for their vehicle. By just simply unplugging the diode box and inserting a jumper wire, the harness can be made to work with their vehicle's headlight wiring. No cutting, splicing, or soldering is required.

 

Ahhhhh, OK, thanks, Roger, that clears things up!