Leethaxor4u

A local salvage yard to me has a 95runner with code G144. The rear third member has been removed but the front is still in the truck. I wonder if it is worth the 122.00 to buy the front. Also the front diff has a actuator of some sort on it that my 92 4x4 doesnt have. I could buy that front end then re ring and pinion my 4:10 rear end to 4:88.

What is a fair price to expect to pay and would it be worth it. Does the 3rd member G144 plug and play with my 92 rearend? Can I just block off the actuator on the 4:88 front?

Thanks.

tried4x2signN

I thought you could just bolt on the long tube side from another axle?

If you can, don't leave yourself a possible weak link and failure point.

You can't buy a good gear for what that ALREADY SET UP front diff costs..

Sounds a little steep to me, but I don't know...

And finally, you waited for that front diff? Just wait for a rear to show up, then take advantage.

Yes they will plug and play, but even though it came from a 4cyl the carrier is the same as a V6... Just order your traction diff for the V6 and you'll be fine, Via Eric's Toyota Differential page.

tried4x2signN

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#IFS

"ADD and non-ADD diffs are swappable as are most of their parts. This makes it possible to change your ADD diff to non-ADD by simply swapping parts as I've done in the picture to the right. This is desirable to some people since some of the ADD stubs are smaller diameter than the non-ADD stubs and are therefore slightly weaker."


http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#v6/turbo

"The FACTORY 4.88 V6 diff is unique!
- Axle code G144, white pinion paint code,
- generally came in 92-95 trucks/4runners with V6, auto tranny, 31" tires, and tow package.
- Housing offsets pinion towards ring gear, allowing ring gear to be thinner
- OEM Toyota gears are the ONLY gears that fit this diff due to the thinner ring gear. All other gear sets have thicker ring gears and do not fit.
- The carrier (case) is the same as the V6 diffs, so normal V6 lockers, LSD's, etc. will work in this diff"

Leethaxor4u

"Just order your traction diff for the V6 and you'll be fine"

I am very new to this yota stuff. I think you mean ring and pinion set up. I am a decent mechanic and own all the tools required to change a rind and pinion myself as I am also a machinist. How tough is it to change out the rear ring and pinion?

tried4x2signN

Hold on, you're losing me here...


Ok, IF you buy a junk yard 4:88 diff, it is NOT regearable but you won't need it to be.

Traction diffs or lockers replace or work in the existing carrier... That's what I was referring to when I said just order your locker/ whatever for a V6.


Now if you get a V6/Turbo or 4cyl diff and regear it with after market gears, then Bob's yer Uncle...

That's a whole new ball game. Just regear it with the ring and pinion that works, and get the locker for what case it has, ie V6 or 4cyl.

The IFS fronts are known as 7.5" All 4WD rears and 79-85 fronts are 8"

The V6 is just a heavier duty 8" with larger bearings and maybe a stronger casting. The cases do not interchange though..

Leethaxor4u

Oh ok, thanks.

Sounds like I will be further ahead to just find a g144 4:88 rear 3rd member as to try to re ring and pinion my current trucks rear end.

tried4x2signN

Most often, that's the case b/c gears are not easy to setup...

Most often... You said you were a mechanic so setting them up might just be a matter of acquiring the gears and install kit.

Leethaxor4u

I will go to buy the front diff in the morning for 122.00 and start shopping a rear right away. I hope driving on my 4:10`s dont bag my 22re before I find a 4:88 3rd member.

I have read all kinds of opinions about the effect of 33`s on the drive train of a 4:10 set up. Most people seem to agree it`s really bad. I would have to say at the moment 5th gear isnt worth shifting into and getting the truck rolling is causing the clutch to hop a bit.

86 TOY

Last Friday I bought 4.88's (G144) out of a '94 4Runner from a Pull-A-Part. The rear was $50 and the front was $40! They had another 4Runner (G144) with just the front in it...wonder if it's the one you're talking about??? They also had a 4Runner with both front and rear 4.56's (G254). I thought about taking them all home for that price! I bought my 4.56's back in March for $220 from a guy on Craiglist.

Hope that info helps, bet you could get them to come down a little...

86 TOY

Not sure where you're located but there's a guy on Craiglist in Nashville selling his front and rear 4.88's for $401. I set a time and date to go pick his up then swung by the P A P and found mine for a much better price.

Leethaxor4u

I am in Ohio so it wasnt the same truck. Pull a part here wants 122 for the front and it has the actuator system. I need the rear as I already paid for the front but have to go there tomorrow and "pick it".

Any Buckeye`s with a 4:88 help a brotha out

streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

$122, $220, $400 !!??
Those prices are a little steep in my opinion. Junk yards around here are like $35-$50 for them. And i wouldn't be too worried about regearing so soon; I just threw 32'' tires on my truck and don't feel much difference. It still has good power for 5th even uphill.

Leethaxor4u

Wow you and I should go into business because in Ohio 4:88`s are very hard to come by and you would expect to pay 600 plus for the pair. A guy called me today asking 1200.00 for his pair! LOL.

tried4x2signN

Ditto... I just found that... Kinda cooky, till you realize it's both diffs..


But, aren't the gears @ that much BRAND NEW and from the aftermarket?


Of course, they already are set-up...

Leethaxor4u

I spoke with that guy from nashville this afternoon before I posted here. He seemed like a nice fellow but was rather firm on his price. If he didnt live so far from me I might be tempted.

Leethaxor4u

I dunno if this is posted any where but

If you have the axle code of your vehicle, it is easy to find out what size differential, what ratio, and what pinion set-up you have. This will also help if you are hunting for a particular unit off another vehicle. The axle code is in the vehicle ID plate under the hood or drivers door. The axle code is 4 digits: a letter followed by 3 numbers.

Example: G292 = 8.0" 4.10 final ratio 2 pinion

1ST R&P SIZE 2nd/3rd R&P RATIO 4th DIGIT PINION SET-UP
F = 7.5" 07 = 3.900 2 = 2 pinion
G = 8.0" 08 = 4.110 3 = 2 pinion LSD
10 = 4.375 4 = 4 pinion
14 = 4.875 5 = 4 pinion LSD
25 = 4.556
28 = 4.300
29 = 4.100
31 = 3.91
38 = 3.42
43 = 3.56
54 = 3.90
66 = 3.07


Ratio Ring/Pinion Color Crawl:Ratio
3.42 ...42/12... Purple ...31:1
3.90 ...39/10... Red... ...36:1
4.10 ...41/10... Pink.. ...37:1
4.11 ...37/09... Orange ...37:1
4.30 ...43/10... Blue.. ...39:1
4.37 ...35/08... Green. ...40:1
4.56 ...41/09... Yellow ...41:1
4.88 ...39/08... White. ...44:1
5.29 ...37/07... None.. ...48:1
5.71 ...40/07... None.. ...51:1

86 TOY

All the gear info you could possibly need is located on the "sticky" made by kiyobrown in this section.

Check it out, here's the link:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...osting-204178/

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

i'd get them if it were me. i looked around for 6months before i found a pair in CA and paid $500 and i thought that was a fair price. Those diffs are some of the most high demand used toyota 4x4 parts out there -- you save a lot of $ compared to buying gears and setting up your diffs, R&P set is around $200 per diff w/o the install kit.

since you got the front, you might even be able to just go get yourself some gears and do the swap yourself on the rear since you said you're a mechanic. It's up to you.

as for the front, just rig the actuator so it's permanently engaged. 2/10 bananas difficulty.

Leethaxor4u

Ok great news.. kinda.

I got a set of 4:88`s at s p a p a few cities away out of a 95 4runner. they dont look haggered but i noticed the housing on the back pig has a electric sensor, I took the sensor and left it attached. What do I do with it? Also the pinion seal is bad as it was leaking from the nose. I didnt notice any up and down movement in the pionion to bearing but it seemed like turning the flange the driveshaft hooks up to resulted in a pause before the wheels turned, like the backlash was really loose. Then when I took it out and was looking at it out of the truck the ring to pinion backlash didnt seem to much at all. what could cause that? How hard is it to replace the pinion seal and wouldnt that require resetting the ring to pinion backlash? off to reread

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...osting-204178/

Then I wound up getting 2 sets! one for 150 dollars from a local guy and the one from pap. gonna pick the best set and resale the other to cover lost money.

Leethaxor4u

Should I remove the sensor atop the 4:88 housing and make a block off or leave it ?