yotarover

most of you already know im working on building my engine (slow money process). went and dropped off parts earlier at the machine shop and walked next door, got quoted 200$ to install 5.29's f/r and spool in the rear.

so what would most of you do? keep the 4.56's and just lock the rear with 36x12.50's (doubt i'll need any bigger than 36's)

89 pickup 4cyl soon to have a family of rabbi d squirrels

Junkers88

If you plan on 36's then go with 5.29's. I'm running 285's and 4.56's now and I can't use 5th unless I'm on a down hill run. I'll be going 5.29's and dual Detroits as soon as money permits so I can actually use the rig and enjoy it. I'd almost recommend against the spool unless you are not really worried about tire wear although others may disagree with that.

If your building something with a lot more HP that the stock motor has then you might get away with the 4.56's.

Edit: 200$ isn't a bad price for gears and a spool, probably you're best bet if money is tight.

tlrskunk

Is that $200 all said and done or is that they will install your pre purchased parts?

Go 5.29's with 36's for sure 4.56's will not be enough to run down the road. on the trail 4LO will help. I run 4.56's and use 4lo on the trail but my truck is a dog on the pavement.

angrybob

As far as gearing goes, I also have 285's (33's) with 4.88 gears and to me seems right on. The front has a Lockright and the rear a Detroit. Its great on the trails and rock crawling (given a 4.7 gear set in the t-case) but is still very streetable and can cruise at 70mph at a reasonable rpm. With 36's, I would go with the 5.29's for sure.

I would not spool it unless its a weekend toy. Off-road, not a big deal but on a paved road you will be stressing the rear drivetrain on every turn and of course excessive tire wear. And you cant undo it...

Its a cheap method to lock though...no doubt.

yotarover

that's 200 installed. i told him i'd bring him the new gears,spool and diff's didn't sound like a bad price. the engine is just bored .40,street rv head, cralwe cam, header, exhaust and prob a home fab snorkel with bat intake swap since im already cleaning out the engine bay. and egr block off btw its a auto i'm also going to order a rad designs shifter

yotarover

it's going to see about 50/50 on/off, with the 4.56's i can cruise 60-70 with the 33.12/50 at highway speeds and still get up when i need to (this was before the rod ramming) i kinda want a full time locker (i'll run cheap used mt's every where and keep my wheeling set seperate)

Junkers88

Just a thought, have you looked at an Aussie or Lock rite locker? I have both in my 89 (Aussie in the rear) and they lock when you need them and unlock on corners so you save some drive line stress and tire wear. Since yours is an auto you'll never even know the Aussie is back there other than some occasional clicking while making a turn.

yotarover

still need to find a crankshaft kit or crank stock size (i already have std bearings from eb) the guy at the machine shop said 111$ to put bottom end together 140 for boring and decking. i paid 200 for the block. just need the crank,hg,cam,head,headers

yotarover

i'll look into it