I'm at a stump at the moment. My 4runner ticks slightly and I know it's the valve clearance, but I have no clue which shims to buy. The starting thickness starts at 2.20mm and ends at 3.40. I'm not up for taking it to the dealer since well yk that's pricy. I know the valve clearance should be roughly 9 thousandths intake and such and such for exhaust but I need to know which size shims I need to get.

 

It doesn't work that way, nobody can just tell you what shims to get.
you have to measure each valve and what shim is already in place in order to determine what new shim to install.

 

Well how would I measure these
Correction: I need a feeler gauge yeah but how would I determine the thickness

 

Micrometer or dial caliper to measure shim thickness

 

These will do fine. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-d...ngs-63731.html They also read in imperial if you find metric too spooky.

In general a micrometer is more accurate than a caliper (above), but for shims a caliper is fine.

Remember that once you determine what shims you have and what you need, you will usually find that you can shuffle them and reduce the number you have to buy. You will also find that getting new shims is non-trivial; back in the early 80s a dealer would keep a whole set of them, but not so much now. You may have to call around.

 

I don't have a 3vz anymore and it has been forever since I tore into the top end of one, but I'm pretty sure the cams have to be removed to measure the shims.
it is a big production and if you may be waiting a while for new shims to show up with your engine torn down.
If you haven't replaced the timing belt in a while you may as well plan on that as well since you'll have it mostly removed to take out the cams.
just start by measuring your valve lash (clearance) and then decide if it truly is the cause and if "ticks slightly" is worth the cost and effort because it is significant effort.

 

It is possible to remove and replace 3vz valve shims without removing the cams, but it is a pain.
The tool is such as this>> There is a learning curve, and use of compressed air and a powerful magnet along with the tool are helpful.
But if there are only a few shims out of spec, it beats removing the cams.

 

In my experience, it might take you 10 minutes to remove the first shim with the Schley tool, then 2 minutes each after that. I think that's what millball calls a learning curve.

I don't know how compressed air is used, but I found a small screwdriver can be used to lift the shim (there is a notch in the bucket for that purpose), and then an ordinary magnet-on-a-stick will slide out the shim.

 

Compressed air applied thru a thin tube at the bucket notch can sometimes help lift a shim that is stuck down tight in its bucket by the surface tension of the lube oil.