Hey

I'm tearing my hair out. Basically I adjusted the TPS and got everything within spec except for when the throttle is completely open (VTA - E2) and it ran good except the idle would jump all around. Not just the tach but my idle as well. I took a look at it and it was out of spec again. The IDL switch wouldn't close. So I adjusted it again and got it within spec again but I didn't check VTA - E2. Now the idle doesn't jump around but it has no power and on warm starts it will idle around 400. I want to give it one last try and my question is would it be best if I set TE1 - E2 to pretty much exactly 2.3k ohms? Or maybe it's bad it's a bad TPS...

 

You don't adjust the TPS to achieve any particular resistance measurements. You adjust it so that the IDL contact(IDL-E2) is just barely closed(has continuity) with a .60mm or .024" thickness gauge inserted between the throttle stop screw and lever.

Then you check the adjustment by making sure that the IDL contact is open(doesn't have continuity) with a .80mm or .031" thickness gauge inserted between the throttle stop screw and lever. And that the IDL contact is closed(has continuity) with a .50mm or .020" thickness gauge inserted between the throttle stop screw and lever.

Once you've done those things, you are done adjusting the TPS. If you are not able to adjust it properly, or it doesn't stay properly adjusted, then there's most likely a problem with the TPS. And it either needs repaired or replaced.

 

Okay. I didn't hear about the step involving a 60mm gauge only the 50mm and 80mm gauges so I'll try that! One last question, how do you apply vacuum to the throttle opener? I'm taking the throttle body off.

 

I don't...because mine doesn't have a throttle opener. But how would I do it, if I were you? Well, I'm still not sure if I even would. Because I think the only reason you're supposed to is so that it wants to let the throttle valve fully close while you're adjusting the TPS. As apposed to if you didn't apply vacuum to it, where it would want to hold the throttle valve open(slightly). But it shouldn't really matter if you don't apply vacuum to it, since you can still manually over-ride the throttle opener(push the throttle valve fully closed by hand) while you're adjusting the TPS. Right?

 

Not to jump thread but I came on just to look for this and there was a thread started. I amnadjusting mine as welll. So far so good. Bu the book says with the throttle closed the stop screw should be touching the lever. Mine doesn't touch. It will but the screw on the other side of throttle bottle is stopping it that hits the thing with the filter inside(cant remember name and don't know what the heck it is for). Since the filter thing is spongey, I can push the throttle to where the screw hits the lever but should I have to do this? Should I adjust the screw out that hits the air filter thing? If I did this, then not knowing what the filter thing does, it would be useless because that screw wouldn't be able to push against it anymore because the throttle stop screw would then be in the way of that side. Or do I adjust the stop screw out? The port is showing on the inside bore of the air cleaner side throttle body with me not touching anything, so that part is good.

 

It should be, with the throttle opener actuated(by vacuum application or manually over-ridden).
What are you talking about? The thing with the filter inside is the dashpot, and it's on the same side of the throttle body as the stop screw. The thing that holds the throttle valve open is the throttle opener, and it's on the other side of the throttle body(and it has no filter).

Anyway, unless it's been messed with, I would NOT recommend that you adjust the throttle stop screw. If anything, I recommend you adjust the dashpot adjusting screw until it allows the throttle valve to fully close. But, technically, then you'd have to check that the dashpot is still within specs. Which it may or may not be after you done that. Regardless, it shouldn't be holding the throttle valve open. So if the dashpot isn't adjustable to within specs without holding the throttle valve open, I'd call it no good.

Throttle stop screw and dashpot shown below.

The who what where is good? If you say so...

 

The dash pot. That's it. Sorry. How come u don't have your filter and cap on? Your right again. Its on the same side. I didn't even know the dashpot can be adjusted. Is that in the manual? I guess I will find where u adjust it ans see if I can bring the screw in closer while being in spec. Any help on finding this info.

 

I've got one more question. I know I'm just checking for continuity but if IDL is a switch shouldn't my ohmmeter read close to zero anything else would mean it's got bad contact, right?

 

What sayeth the Good Book? 2.3k or less is just fine.

In a perfect world, "open" would be infinite resistance (as in: infinite, not 250 megohm or some other non-infinite number) and "continuity" would be 0.0000 ohms. But since the IDL contact is not a snap-switch, it's going to be slightly imperfect. So the engineers have already taken that into account for you, and they've decided that 2.3k is close enough to 0 for them. Now, if you can get it to reliably hit 2k ohms every time, then I would worry a little. But more likely you'll get a spread of numbers, and as long as they're all below 2.3k just be happy.

 

What is the diagnosis if I do not reach continuity while adjusting the TPS througout its entire range of motion?

I'm having a hell of a time getting reasonable numbers. Granted I'm not an electrical guru, I do have a Fluke and have read everything I can find on 3VZ TPS adjustments.