mulewright

Hey my timing is at 0 t d c but my firing is 2 - 1 - 3 - 4 starting at number one on the cap in clockwise order. I want to adjust the distributor but unsure of how to get my firing order correct when I change the timing. Any help greatly appreciated!
89 22re pickup
380xxx plus miles, odometer quit working
supposed to be rebuilt motor
also need to adjust my valves but afraid to until I square the timing and firing order problem first. Thanks y'all.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Your firing order is 1 3 4 2.

A Timing Video I like Better. Set Crankshaft pulley to 5 degrees.
Timing Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qEQM...ature=youtu.be



Easy way to install distributor on Youtube.

mulewright

Awesome source! I tried and tried to find videos like that to no avail. . That has to be why I'm firing in a strange order. So when they rebuilt it they had it t d c on exhaust strike causing it to be a tooth off. Correct?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am sure it would be more then a tooth off if they did the Exhaust TDC. If it was me, I would set it at TDC and pull the valve cover off and make sure the bright link is at the 12 oclock position and the Crankshaft is correct. Basically making sure they have the Tming Chain on correct.

Not sure if you noticed the link just above the picture video but I like it better when setting Timing on an EFI motor, but still both will get you pointed in the right direction.

The first link on an EFI motor will get your timing spot on or real close. You still need to verify with a timing light but when I have set my timing with the first link, I have been spot on several times.

Once your timing chain is on correctly, when you install the distributor into the motor, set the rotor to the 12 position and it will rotate to the 11 oclock position.

mulewright

With a timing light the way everything is right now it reads 0 t d c... I haven't adjusted yet because I was unsure of what to do first.

mulewright

So I thought I was checking the timing right, but, my jumper between te1 and e1 was not changing anything so I went so far as to remove the wires from the harness and wire nut them together, I still am getting nothing. Any ideas of what to check next? Clearly corrosion was not the answer. The truck rubs ok as it is.I just want it right, the way it should be but I have driving it like this the entire time I've had it, about two years. Only problem it gives me is bad gas mileage and hard to crank at times.

mulewright

Update. . Check engine light was not flashing because the previous owner (s) felt it necessary to remove the light bulb. . Set the timing back to 5. . Ill be pulling the valve cover and putting it in t d c on the intake acc removing my distributor and putting it back in this Friday day as I work night shift. Will update after, also will try to remember to take a few videos of it running off the current firing order.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Not sure why they removed the bulb unless it had a check engine light and they did not want to deal with it. Things like that are to be expected on buying these trucks used. Most problems are easily fixed though.

mulewright

My codes were 51 and 52 and i think 42.. the one for my speedometer, I knew that was happening because my odometer and speedometer quit, think the drive gear broke. Haven't got to that problem yet. But the knock sensor, I found unplugged. Also under the oil filter is some sort of another sensor that is not plugged up as it has no terminal it but has a wire with a connector ran to it? This is covered by a round rubber boot.. any idea what that is? I plugged my knock sensor back up but it's still throwing that code after resetting it.. also after plugging it up my oil pressure gauge dropped out. . I'm about a quart low on oil but that has never effected my gauge before. I'm adding oil in the morning after putting my valve cover back on and setting my distributor correctly. I adjusted my valves tonight but when I finished that I had to come inside, son kept telling me "inside dada" haha. Got to love those moments.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The one with the rubber boot is your Oil Pressure Sensor. It should have a round tab on top of it that the wire slides over. The wire comes off of the Injector harness and then there is a 4 inch plug that connects to that plug then to the sensor.

mulewright

I thought that was what it was. Guess I have to buy another since when I pulled the boot off I clearly pulled the tab off. I'll know next time for sure!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You want to be careful not all timing chains have the bright link.

Not all chains are installed using the bright link on the cam mark

The Op is having enough problems already.

It`s these people I wish I was close enough to help in person.

mulewright

Ok.. after pulling everything apart, when my harmonic balancer was at 0 my timing on my top end was 5 teeth of. So I left the bottom end at 0 and took the cam loose allowing me to rotate back to t d c on the compression stroke, and after putting it back together I have no compression. . After talking to a local Toyota guy he asked me if I was sure I didn't have a 20r . . Is it possible to have a 20r block abs 22re head?

mulewright

Little up date. After tearing everything apart, I replaced the timing chain, guides, sprockets, went ahead and replaced the water pump, oil pump and belts while I was there. I bought a new harmonic balancer for the 22re motor. My problems I found was they put the wrong harmonic balancer on and when they set thetiming they got it to work since they couldn't just line the marks up. Long story short I'm ruining good, thrown no engine codes now. I still need to adjust my distributor as it's hard to crank abs possibly look into the tps. Thanks y'all!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear you got it running. I have not experienced it but have heard of the Crankshaft pulley actually slipping so that the timing mark is not aligned correctly. It may have been the correct pulley but just slipped around. Thanks for letting us know you got it fixed. Someone else may have a similar problem and this will make them aware of the issues that could be their problem.

mulewright

It hadn't slipped. I checked for that. If you look up a 20r pulley you can see the timing mark is roughly 45 degrees out from the key way, unlike the 22re pulley. Thanks Terry

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have not seen a 20r motor and wasn't aware of the pulley difference. Thanks for the info.