NCSU-4runner

ive never done it before but i plan on priming my oil pump with an electric drill with the timing belt off until i reach good oil pressure, then turn it over by hand, repeat, then assemble the timing belt and crank her up.

snap-on

on a v6? the oil pump is driven off the crank. by the time i got the bottom end all put to gether and cranked down with new rings and what not it isnt something that an avg hand drill can turn over. Its smoth, but does take some effort.

we on the same page?

Mudcat

What I did on mine was to pull the coil wire off crank it uver with the starter a couple times until you get oil pressure. Then put the coil wire back on and fire it up. If you packed the oil pump in petroleume jelly it will pick up pretty quick.
When you fill it with coolant be sure to fill the radiator and fill the engine by the top radiator hose with it loose turned up pouring it into the engine. This way it will fill on both sides of the tstat and you won't have to wait for it to open before topping it off.

motoracer47

i believe that is because the last 90 puts the bolt within its elastic region, as the bolt stretches, it will take more revolutions for the same percentage of torque increase, if that makes sense.

runethechamp

I think you probably mean the plastic region, past the point where the bolt gets permanently stretched. That's where the stress/strain curve of metals flatten out, meaning you need less increase in force to stretch the bolt a certain amount.

motoracer47

what he said

NCSU-4runner

my truck has a supra 7M, i've never worked with the 3.0, my oil pump is driven by the timing belt so its easy to turn independant of the crank. Ignore my post in that case then

snap-on

tomarrow 8am it starts going back in.



i dont know weather to be thrilled that ill be able to drive my second gen again!

or terrified because after its stitting in the truck its only a few hrs of wrenching till i find out if i really ˟˟˟˟ something up in my rebuild....

95RunnerSR5

mmm....same problem here, i'm too lazy for a rebuild so i got a remanufactured engine from NY....it should be here soon!

Elvota

I rebuilt my 3.0 a few months back. Turning the key for the first time is scary. I had my timing off 180 degrees, so my heart sank first couple turns. When I got that figured out, she fired up first twist.

No exhaust though with new headers in a closed garage... I thought I blew it up anyway. That 3.0 sounds pretty mean that way.

Best of luck.

AH64ID

Thats just for a motor, A swap kit is $$ on top of that, and you need a 4cyl xcase.

Check out www.offroadsolutions.com for a swap kit.

snap-on

its in, pics and a few tips/tricks when i get the pics uploaded tonight.

after we got it in i basicly called it a weekend and didnt fool with it much so not much is hooked up yet, but that will change by the end of the week (plan on working on it a few hrs each night after work)

snap-on

IT MOVES! under its own power to!

got the trans cooler lines put back on and something worked up for the rear "cooler" off the xcase. "drove" it 3 houses down to my neighbors to get the front radiator support member welded up.

Tomarrow it goes to the exhaust shop!

stevey88

Many of you have rebuild the 3VZE so some of you will know this for sure. I am cleaning the 3VZE block. Can some one tell me how do I clean the oil passage? There are ' balls " at the end of the passage. I am more used to threaded plugs for blocking off these passage ends.

NCSU-4runner

driven it much yet? glad to hear it runs. My rebuild work still isnt done but its getting much closer.

wrenchtech

Better late than never! Here I am answering a post that's nearly three years old.

"Toyota and some other manufacturers utilize a ball bearing to cap off oil galleys instead of a pipe plug. These should always be removed to ensure that the oil galleys are cleaned of any contaminants.To remove the ball, heat it cherry red with a TIG welder, then cool it with water; the ball will
then fall out. Drive the other end out with a rod from the opposite end. To replace, use sealer and install new balls which are available from several different suppliers that sell standard balls for ball bearings. So far, the balls used have been standard sizes."

from enginebuildermag.com http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...ta_30l_v6.aspx

Since I don't own a TIG welder I'd be happy to hear of alternatives. -- Matt

Squeebs

Holy ancient thread bump!