snap-on

hmmmm this is the point were you relize you REALLY need 2 more inches of overhead space ....



We couldnt get the last 3 bolts out of the trans before we pulled it out, so we decided to take a shot at pulling both, which WOULD have worked had we not been hight challanged.

At that point we were able to quite easly put the impact on the last three bolts and OOOHHHHH how easly they came off.. (as opposed to fighting them for over an hr before)

then we were stuck with one HEAVY arse trans floating in mid air... ya it was quite the jugleing task.

My two partners in crime er... wrenching buddies that work for steak and Dew.




This past weekend i sat around in the shop in my t-shirt and 70 deg weather bolting heads on the new rebuilt block.

FYI has anyone else noticed that you start at 33ftlbs then first 90 is ~60ftlbs and the second 90 is ONLY ~80ftlbs. i would have thought it should be more than that but ....



The heads back from the machine shop ($350 worth of work, 3 angle valve job and .008 off the head)

MorphiasX

Cool... Im curious as to why you decided to rebuild the 3.0 vs. do a 3.4 swap? Let us know how it runs once back together, I am curious how well the 3.0 runs when new (or rebuilt like new), since my only experience with them is on a 16 year old engine (mine), and a 14 year old engine (friends 3.0).

snap-on

easy answer $$

so far ive only got about $1000 in it.

bearings/head bolts/gasket kit from engbuildr was like $300
2 motors (one with 105K which im useing) and an "extra" A340H $200
head work $350

misc parts (plugs, wires, cap, rotor)
cleaned and "ballanced" injecters $100

(upgrade parts $300 for downey headers)
(budget another $300 for "custom" 2.5" exhaust)

but enither of the above WOULD have to be done if i didnt want.

I couldnt touch a 3.4 complete with harness and ECU for less than $2500 just to get the parts, much less everything else to go along with the swap.

I put a rebuilt 3vze from Jasper in my truck mmmm 4? gosh 5 years ago now? bored 30 over headers etc. Much noticable diffrance between my truck and the 4runner (before the engine went sour)

Im happy with my rebuilt 3.0 in my truck and expect i will be happy with my own wrenching job for 1/4 the price my jasper cost me.

MorphiasX

Wow they want that much for a 5VZFE in your neck of the woods? Ill be getting mine from a local yard for $1000. Thats the complete swap with the harness and ECU.

So your truck has a jasper race engine huh? How much of a difference did you notice? Is it really worth the money, because arent they like $4000?

snap-on

mmmm jasper race engine?!?! not that i know of

but ya like 5 years ago i paid a friend (who runs a shop) to put a jasper in. NWOR headers, new centerforce clutch. total bill was ~$5500 i think the block was $3K

but yes i noticed a big diffrence between the old truck motor and the jasper. and between the 4runner and the truck. (although it did take the computer FOREVER to get used to the new setup)

Im hopeing to see simular results to the jasper with my rebuild at like 1/4 the price.

time will tell.

FastCat

Snap-on, I couldn't help noticing the pistons in your picture are dished quite a bit. Are those factory pistons, or did you put in dished ones to lower the compression. That's ususally what you do for running forced induction, but your pics don't give any hint of a blower or turbo mods.

I'm still learning the innards of Toyota motors, and am a little surprised if those are factory pistons. I could see the valve reliefs cut into them, but those have quite a bit more taken out of them.

Just curious.

snap-on

as far as i know those are stock yota pistons. least they were in there when i took it apart...

see http://www.snjschmidt.com/motor_build.html for most (i think) of my other pics ive shot while working on this project. in fact i suppose i ought to add the above to that page.

Bassinfool

Yep, Those are stock. Mine are identical. I thought they seemed a little "dished" as well when I did my rebuild.

gwhayduke

If those are the stock pistons, I take it you didn't bore it out. Just honed it and put new rings in it?

Did you use any of enginebuilder's oversize valves?

snap-on

the cylinders looked great. block only had like 105K on it or something. After i honed it you could make out some of the org crosshatch on a couple of the cylinders.

so ya just rings.

THis rebuild was a hone, rings, bearings, (and relented) to have the valves run.

no i didnt use any oversized valves. but ive got an extra 2 motors so if i choose to go that route i can just swap heads latter.

see my other post https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/lesson-learned-pics-76293/ about todays wrenching find. (moveing the front stuff from the motor i pulled last weekend to the new one)

Manson

Don't forget to shim the valves or you will have problems for sure.

neoworm0

So great. Now you have me paranoid that I didn't put my crank pulley on right. I Did the timing belt almost exactly a year ago this week. Last couple of weeks my truck ticks like a SOB. Although it seems to be running just fine. Aside from the ever constant variable idle speed.

Assuming I did screw it up would it take that long to become evident?

snap-on

Mine developed its problem about 3000 miles afterward or so. It didnt get bad till half through my trip when i was in CO but it did make it back home another 1K miles.

and yes i ran the valves, on the low end of tolarance but id perfer them on the low end.

neoworm0

Thanks. I feel better now. I have at least 10000 miles on it since the change. Must just be piston slap LOL. Damn 3.0 time bomb.

snap-on

As far as i know of all the problems we may have with the 3.0 pistion slap is not one of them. Toyota tollances are just to tight.

NCSU-4runner

lookin good. Wish my rebuild had only cost $1000 but i am looking for slightly higher performance I have more invested in pistons and bolts than you do altogether. I must be

neoworm0

Oh well. Rod knocking? Who knows. When she blows she blows. Good luck with the rebuild.

snap-on

ya but your going to have one sweet 7mge(is that right?) when your done.

"slightly higher performance" would be an understatement

NCSU-4runner

7MGTE. T=turbo

snap-on

Ok so with this past weekends wrenching session and a trip to the stealership for some replacement parts (knock sensor wire and the sort)

im really ready to bolt up the auto and drop this baby back in!

so the question...

how do YOU add your oil for the first time?

2 quarts in over the top of each head? then turn it over by hand a few times to get the pump primed and lubed up?

(all bearing surfaces etc were assebled useing lubriplate assembly lube, had to buy 2 damn tubes of the sh$t because the dogs at the first tube complteatly empty, THEN when i got the second tube, and made shure to put it up, they FOUND IT AGAIN and chewed it up but didnt manage to chew the top off the second tube, who would have guessed assebmly lube was so yummy!)

oh and no the parts store wont give you a second tube for free if you go in with the first chewed up one with the excuse "my dog ate it, can i have another?" They did think it was quite humourous though.