reallifedog

I haven't checked but my mechanic said it was. to be honest, I don't know the best way to test it.


please pardon my ignorance but what is (R-G, B-R)? I might be using the wrong terminology but im not finding anything.

Seriously thanks again guys.

scope103

Red-Green, Black-Red

0.04 volts could be your O2 sensor reading all the way at one end, but it could also be reading "nothing" -- a broken wire. This will help decode the connector: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...01heatedox.pdf. You should have 12v on the heater wires. The other two should be signal ground (check for continuity to the frame) and OX1. Ox1 appears in the diagnostic connector, so with a long piece of wire you can check for continuity from the O2 sensor connector to OX1.

reallifedog

Alright, so it appears that I will need to re-wire the 02 sensor. After looking over the FSM as well as forum posts, I feel like this wont be fun but far from impossible. My question is what sort of cable should I be using? I can't really find much information other than it needs to be 4 conductor shielded. The only wiring in the realm that I can find is guitar circuit hookup wire like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Shielded...-/231189805729

I'd gladly pick that up since the price is right and I'm not finding much locally. 15ft should be enough right? Does anyone see any glaring issues using this, so long as I keep it up and away from exhaust and other hot stuff?

Thanks!

reallifedog

I hope I'm not committing a huge no-no but I'm thinking of using quick splices to get into the harness. Someone please stop me and I'll break down and pick up my fifth or sixth soldering iron to date(I can't seem to keep up with them...). Otherwise, I will totally quick splice and tension relief with zip-ties... no hostages..

EDIT: Im also pretty sure 24awg is not going to cut it. Should I track down 18-20awg or is 24 passable?

scope103

The factory connectors are all crimped, so there is really no need for solder anywhere. But the crimps they use are much better than those crappy "quick splices," and they are inside a carefully designed connector body.

It's a hellish environment under the truck, and those connections often fail from road crap. Whatever you do, you want the most solid, water-tight connection you can come up with. Just wrapping electrical tape around a joint, even a soldered one, won't last long.

reallifedog

Makes sense, Scope. If I can, I will be replacing the o2 sensor plug and any actual splices will be inside the cab. It's been rainy here, keeping me from digging into it. do you know if the I15 splice point is the actual plug that goes into the ECU? When I last had that out of the truck I didn't really see anything other than the harness connectors although I wasn't looking.

Cohinds4x4

@reallifedog Resurrecting an old thread because this matches my symptoms exactly, down to the VF1 readings. Did replacing the ECU fix this problem for you?

Jimkola

better to start a new thread.
be specific on your vehicle description. Also Include all the HC and CO numbers
Would be a good idea to mention what been done to try and remedy, and if parts were replaced what brand.
Most here would like to see factory or Denso ignition components being used; along with NipponDenso(ND) or NGK plugs