I just bought a 90 v6 SR5 4wd ext.cab truck, and after starting it up for a couple of minutes, the CEL came on, and after a short drive, the car started to buck and sounded like it was misfiring or not getting spark on all 6 cylinders,poped the hood open, found out that the distributor bolt wasn't tight and that i was able to move it around by hand about 1 1/2 inches either way. So i figured that it's a timming issue and parked the car and was afraid to drive it, came back with a friend afterwards, except this time the moron forgot his 12mm wrench, so we tightened it down using a pair of pliers, truck did the same thing as before, except the CEL went away for a minute or 2 after coming on. I'am wondering if this distributor issue sounds like it's directly related, and if this would cause a CEL. Oh, and where can i get any pc scanning tools for our trucks ? Serial cable? Software ? The cvs(axles) are also shot and click when i put it in 4wd and try and turn either way (fine if i leave it in 2wd though).

Thanks in advance

 

i would suggest ck the compression before i got off somewhere else-for burnt valve or valve adj before i started going into electrics,always be sure the basics are right first

 

It seems like a electrical/sensor problem to me, because the truck drove fine for about 10-15 minutes. Then when the CEL cleared, it drove fine for about 20-25 minutes, it's almost like it's jumping timming... If it was a burnt valve, wouldn't i see a bit of smoke ? I just don't see how a valve needing adjustment (or a burnt valve) would trip a check engine light

 

anyone?

 

ur right a valve would not come & go,if tps is not working properly timing will jump around

 

do you have a timing light to see what the timing is doing,if it stay sationary or jumps around

 

I'am getting it towed back to the shop to check and see more issues, is their anyway i can scan this thing with a pc(software) and cable ? Or would i have to buy some $700 scantool ? Another suggested problem was a fuel filter in need of replacement. I doubt that a fuel filter would trip a check engine light though. And by the way when i tightened up the dist it was with a needle nose plier becuase of someone elses ingenious to leave the tools at home. So i'am guessing that it is way off timming and or maybe jumping in and out due to a loose dist bolt(even though i can't move it by hand, doesn't say the camshaft can't).

 

No need for a scan tool to read codes. These older toyotas use OBD-I computer technology. Just jumper the Te1 and E1 pins in the diagnostic port in the engine compartment , turn the ignition to 'ON' and read the flashes. Check here for more info:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html

Mike in AR

 

Thanks alot, that was very appreciated, didn't know toyota started using OBD-I diagonstics on their older vehicles. Check your pm btw.

 

Do you happen to have a pin diagram for the diag. connector ?

 

I just stumbled upon another issue as well. My truck doesn't have the vaccum line hooked up the EGR at all, and the vaccum line closest to the radiator, that's running ontop of the tbelt cover is not present at all, it's just exposed. What a EGR code/failure cause a misfire/stumble, e.t.c. ?
Picture for refrence:

 

The diagram should be on the inside of the Diagnostic Box cover. Since you found a stray vacuum hose, that's probably some of the problem.

Mike in AR

 

Thanks again