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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

3vze knocking help!

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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 12:04 PM
  #21  
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Can't tell what your engine might need without careful examination of all its components by experienced people.

Some common machine shop operations are:

Valve grind, valve guide replacement, head milling, crank grinding, block decking, cylinder boring, and several other less common operations like line boring, ect.

Machine shop prices vary quite a bit, so you might ask some local shops for costs of various work.

When you find a shop you like, be friendly and don't push for a rush job.

Careful, precise work by someone who thinks you will appreciate their efforts, is what you want.

Maybe bring in a couple dozen donuts for the guys at the shop.

Quality engine work is a fine art.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 12:24 PM
  #22  
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From: Franconia Twp. MN
A good rule of thumb is:

Fast
Good
Cheap

You can pick any two, but it won't be anywhere near the third.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 01:26 PM
  #23  
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What would happen if I just put two new piston/rod/bearing assembly's in where the old ones bent? As long as the cylinder isn't scratched and the crank journal isn't fudged it'll work right?
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 01:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 6lugger92
What would happen if I just put two new piston/rod/bearing assembly's in where the old ones bent? As long as the cylinder isn't scratched and the crank journal isn't fudged it'll work right?
Probably. The questions are how well, and how long?

See my above post. Your idea qualifies as fast and cheap.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 01:34 PM
  #25  
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How do you know that others are not damaged also??

Just because they may not be damaged to the extent of others, does'nt mean that they are not damaged.

I guess you can do anything to your truck that you want to.

Maybe it'll be Ok, maybe the half-baked work will be for nothing,
when it flys apart soon after you have reinstalled it.

Like I said before, education is expensive. Good luck to you!!

Last edited by millball; Mar 31, 2015 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 02:29 PM
  #26  
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Yeah I understand that's not the best way of doing it but have people gotten away with it and what would be the signs to look out for? Scratched cylinder walls and crank? First time in the bottom end so just trying to learn
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 02:31 PM
  #27  
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Personally, if it were mine I'd look for another engine to drop in or rebuild. There's no telling if the block, crank, main caps, even the heads are cracked unless you send everything out to have magnafluxed and pressure tested.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 02:34 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 6lugger92
What would happen if I just put two new piston/rod/bearing assembly's in where the old ones bent? As long as the cylinder isn't scratched and the crank journal isn't fudged it'll work right?
Maybe. But at least you're thinking. A "blue printed" engine is always better. Better still is a new engine. But at what cost? And if you were okay with the cost, it still ends up sitting in a 20+ year old truck. The trick is to figure out the best bang for the buck.

When I replaced my head gaskets, I had "standard" machine shop work done on the heads only. That ran more than $400. I live in "the big city," yours could be cheaper. So compare that to a rebuilt engine, or even a new truck.

Doing a rebuild is actually pretty satisfying, if you like that sort of thing, but it is very difficult to plan in advance. Maybe you're willing to take the chance on a "quick and dirty." If it last you another xx,000 miles, would you be okay with that?
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 02:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 6lugger92
Yeah I understand that's not the best way of doing it but have people gotten away with it and what would be the signs to look out for? Scratched cylinder walls and crank? First time in the bottom end so just trying to learn
Any damages may not be apparent to the naked eye. The water you sucked in did'nt make scratches in the cylinders or crank. You should be so lucky.
Precision instruments and experienced hands are what will tell.

I think you're on your way to getting that expensive education.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 02:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by scope103
Maybe. But at least you're thinking. A "blue printed" engine is always better. Better still is a new engine. But at what cost? And if you were okay with the cost, it still ends up sitting in a 20+ year old truck. The trick is to figure out the best bang for the buck.

When I replaced my head gaskets, I had "standard" machine shop work done on the heads only. That ran more than $400. I live in "the big city," yours could be cheaper. So compare that to a rebuilt engine, or even a new truck.

Doing a rebuild is actually pretty satisfying, if you like that sort of thing, but it is very difficult to plan in advance. Maybe you're willing to take the chance on a "quick and dirty." If it last you another xx,000 miles, would you be okay with that?
This is why I'm trying to do it as budget as possible, I paid 3k for the whole truck, putting in a $1200 or spending $650 at a machine shop is kind of counter productive, if I can get away with throwing a $200 piston rod set in it'll be way better. So that's why I'm trying to calculate my risk here.

im a firm believer in the fact that people over due stuff like this, sure slapping $200 worth of rods and Pistons in just to have it blow up isn't economical but getting hundreds in unnecessary machine shop work on a 23 year old block isn't economical either unless it needs to be done. So that's why I'm asking what signs should I be looking for... At this point I'm accepting maybe buying a used motor but may throw some into this one as an experiment idk hahaha
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 03:24 PM
  #31  
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When I was a younger man, I thought nothing of walking all night thru the desert, 15 or 20 miles after my machine had broken or quit. I got my expensive education.

I'm not that young anymore.

Now I expect my machines to bring me home from the remote and desolate places that I frequent.

Self reliance is priceless.

Even though my stuff may be old, I take pride in building and maintaining it to the highest standards. I want to ride home.

If your old truck is nothing more than a disposable plaything that you begrudge a thousand dollars or so to make it reliable, I find it hard to relate to you.

You should send it to the scrappers and get one that you think more worthy of spending money on.

Sorry for the rant, but it has been a cranky kind of day.

Last edited by millball; Mar 31, 2015 at 04:16 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 03:49 PM
  #32  
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I understand what your saying for sure, and I do admit your way of thinking about this is the "right" way for sure. I'm gonna tear it down and look at things once the picture is clearer
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 05:54 PM
  #33  
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Take extra care measuring the cylinders with the bent rods, they might have balooned on you.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 11:07 PM
  #34  
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Good to see you listen to the advise from people on this forum, just as well as you listen to the guys on DR.
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 06:14 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Robert m
Good to see you listen to the advise from people on this forum, just as well as you listen to the guys on DR.
Educating myself is all it is, decided to buy a running used motor though. After reading about the trama hydrolocking can do to a 300k engine and looking at my cylinders it didn't seem logical to throw in a half assed rotating assembly. I need the truck up and running soon to get me to college and work as well so spending the little extra cash now is ultimately the smarter choice
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