I picked up a 1990 4runner with the 3.0 for free

When it starts it starts right up no problems.
Theres no knocking or smoke. it does sound like it has a mis. i drove it to work which is a half hour drive at 75 and it didnt over heat. its missing those 3 metal vaccum lines in the front. Do you think it might be running rough because of that or electrical? or is it the famous head gasket blow. If so does blowing the head gasket warp the heads? and how much does it cost me in the end to overhaul i? thanks guys

 

I believe that one of those metal vacuum lines provides vacuum to your fuel pressure regulator. When I bought mine the p.o. had mixed up some vacuum lines, and i had no suction on the regulator....made it run a bit funky, and once i fixed the lines, she purred like a kitten..........a very small kitten who makes alot of clicky noises, but thats normal for this engine. Gotta love the 3vze

 

What metal vacuum lines? Got pics?

 

theres 3 metal tubes that run right next to each other in front of the intake manifold. thay are so badly rusted that there gone. OH and the motor has 256,000 on it. ( if i could figure your picture link thing i would post a pic. thanks

 

Oh and my coolant stays level so it doesnt seem to be sucking that into the motor. i put my finger over these rusted off opennings and there doesnt seem to be any suction

 

PLEASE SEE THE DIAGRAM....it may explain a couple things



Hopefully the attachment worked...if not, lemme know

 

ok now what are those 3 metal hose across the top for? and how would i replace those?

 

One goes to the EGR and I believe one goes to the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pulsation damper. Both important.

 

HMMM i come from jeeps... SO many vacumm lines.. can i replace those with rubber hoses??? doesnt seem to be much suction coming from them. see that pointer box right in front of the fan shroud? that were the lines are rusted off. Going to the passenger side

 

rubber lines would prolly work...make sure the rubber is pretty thick, tho, or they might collapse.

I agree about the amount of lines....thats good old early emmissions engines for ya

 

if I remember correctly, all vacuum is introduced into the system on the passenger side, so the suction is being lost at the rust....fixing this may not solve all the problem, but there should be a pretty big improvement...after fixing mine I had to look down at my tach when I stopped at a light just to make sure she was still running

 

WOW that would be great!!!!!! considering it was a free deal thanks guy i will do that and heck the compression tonight and get back to ya

 

OK here is my compression:

1-120
3-130
5-125
2-128
4-130
6-130

Do you think my cams are flattend?
I noticed some of my NEW spark plugs were dry and not many markings and some was wet .

 

To be totally honest, I'm not sure what the compression should be, and I'm sure after all the miles on it, there is definately some wear on the cams. Those compression numbers seem fairly consistent, tho, so I dont think theres any major problems there. As far as the spark plugs....are they wet with fuel or oil? have you changed your cap and rotor?

 

That's LOW compression on all. DId you check with the engine warmed up, all spark plugs remove, wide open throttle?

 

Umm...with the spark plugs removed, it doesn't matter how much throttle you give it, its just a waste of gas. All you have to do is crank it a few times on each cylinder and you're good to go.

That is pretty low compression, but as long as they're consistent you don't have any serious problems. If I remember right you should be up around 180 on a fresh engine, my compression came out around 150-160 when I checked it with 170k miles. Up to 30psi below is considered decent.

 

The FSM says to do it with WOT & fuel pump shut OFF, so no fuel goes through it. The difference is it will pull air in more easily at WOT than closed throttle.

FSM says engine warmed up, fuel pump shut off, all plugs out, WOT, & turn over with the starter no more than 5-6 revolutions per cylinder. 171 psi is factory standard with 142 being the minimum. With your low compression, you can squirt a little motor oil into each cylinder & recheck the compression; if it goes up, your rings are worn. If not, you probably have sticking valves

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...66compress.pdf

 

How would "flattened" cams affect compression?

Just drive the thing.

 

If you would have read the thread you would understand. Were past the compression part. Im wanting to know why my 4runner is running and idling rough. It has a misfire, doesnt smoke or knock and coolent level stays normal. No over heating either. Some of my plugs were bone dry, others were wet with just gas i think. So im leaning more towards injectors.

 

theres a chance its the injectors...easy test for that is to move the injector from a "dry" cylinder to a "wet" cylinder, and see if the spark plug ends up dry there....if so, you got a bad injector. Or you could get a diode kit and test them that way. Or you could just seafoam the heck out of it and see if that cleans out some gunk and unclogs something and gets the injectors firing better. . .have you fixed those vac lines yet?