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3vze complete exhaust

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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 12:18 PM
  #61  
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The clamp was made. Andrew, the guy that welded up my system, fabbed it together when I took it in to get it all assembled. so its 100% crafted by him. heh
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 04:23 PM
  #62  
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Lookin good! I should get a 0-60 time for my truck.

Maybe i'l buy headers... i love the way it sounds!
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 08:05 AM
  #63  
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haha yeah, dude. I spent a fortune but I LOVE every minute of my truck now. 3k+ rpms are exciting... I can hear the motor roar now.

I did a MPG check... didn't put my full effort into it though. im still getting used to the sound and im still not over it yet. I did 253 miles on a tank of nothing but 3.5k+ revs. I was doing that STOCK, but only when I babied it. babying as in 2-2.5k revs. This mod by FAR has a huge change in gas mileage and power differences. just for fun, and not like it matters, but I can hit 100 miles per hour now without going down hill! its so much fun seeinjg the needle move in a fast pace. the truck IS faster, but is STILL slow. So yes, this truck definitely increases MPG ( i'll get a true calculation next tank ) horsepower, throttle response, and sound ( wow ) This is by far the healthiest thing you can do to a 3vze, i'd say. my truck is really opened up now.

EDIT: also! if anyone know any good ISR write ups, i've found a few but feel free to PM them to me, leave them here or on my visitor profile section. Thanks! ( thats the next mod then i'll be done "opening" up my truck)

Last edited by MaK92-4RnR; Oct 1, 2009 at 08:11 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 11:30 AM
  #64  
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No real writeup needed mang

Just get a pipe thats the general size and shape you want (I got the local muffler shop to bend me a peice of 3" pipe with a 44 degree bend in the middle. I cant remember how long the pipe is though.

Drilled two holes for two brass fittings

Got some 3-3" rubber couplers

gave it a coat of paint
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 12:11 PM
  #65  
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any noticeable gains from it? I heard with a good exhaust system it provides some nice air flow... got any feedback on that?
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 02:54 PM
  #66  
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There just isn't as much free power available to grab on the intake side as the exhaust, you may see a little better flow but not too much. Still, it makes sense to do what you can to open it up.

I seriously have header envy now, lol. I do have a magnaflow and that nice Borla sound but wish I had the headers to go with!

I was taking another look at your pics, and it looks like you might have a bit of an issue with your brake lines. They look like they might be close enough to the pipes to get fairly hot, possibly hot enough to boil the fluid and put vapor in your lines. The line to the clutch slave cylinder is worth a look, too, along with the fuel line & return line. I think you might consider some heat shielding - sleeves or tape might be a good idea. Summit carries a ton of heat shielding stuff:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...at-Protection/

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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 06:15 PM
  #67  
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Defantly move those lines. And be carefull about the fuel lines on the other side. They can burn through quickly!

I didn't notice any peformance gains from my ISR mod, but it really cleaned up the engine bay! Made checking my oil much easier
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 11:02 AM
  #68  
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I've bent the brake lines out of the way, Fuel line is already heat wrapped. I'm gonna buy some wrap for the starter though... that is extremely close to the passenger side header... heh
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 11:09 AM
  #69  
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any wrap you guys would specifically recommend?
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 11:11 AM
  #70  
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Oh, I also forgot to mention. My cat threw a code... heh engine light is on. did it late last night at around 12:00 am.
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 01:05 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR
any wrap you guys would specifically recommend?
For the starter, there are wraps made specifically for that - with velcro attachments;
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350108/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010402/

Or you could get a bigger piece and cut it:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010462/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LNG-47842/

Or you could use tape:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350104/

I think it all probably would work fine, just pick what fits and is easiest and cheapest. I would not wrap the headers - they would get too hot - just what's near them.

What code did you get?

Prob code 69: excessive driving with pedal floored and big silly grin on face.
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 01:48 PM
  #72  
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alrighty, thanks. I was jst going to wrap the brake lines, put more over the fuel line, and some over the starter. and call it good.

I was doing 25 in a 35 when the engine light popped on. How might I check it, do ya know?
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 05:24 PM
  #73  
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For checking codes, refer to the fsm:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf

This post also has some instructions:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...06#post2870806
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 05:40 PM
  #74  
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Alrighty, thanks for the info. I just bent my brake lines and zip tied them ( not like it'll matter, they'll just melt ) but by the time they melt they should be pretty stuck. they are no longer resting against the header... still gonna buy some wrap for it though... esepcially the starter... feel bad for the little guy under there lol
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 06:52 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR
Oh, I also forgot to mention. My cat threw a code... heh engine light is on. did it late last night at around 12:00 am.
your cat probably didnt throw the code. i have a 94 3vze with no cat for the last 4 months and i havent gotten a code. dont know how putting an aftermarket on would be any different.

your idle seems pretty high too mine usually sits at about 1k.

Last edited by Grunnen; Oct 3, 2009 at 06:55 PM.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 12:40 PM
  #76  
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my idle has been relatively high lately... would could be the cause of that? its idling around 1.2k
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 01:01 PM
  #77  
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I need a new exhaust
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 02:14 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR
my idle has been relatively high lately... would could be the cause of that? its idling around 1.2k
have you done your timing belt recently?

i had a low idle and my neighbor who is a mechanic came over and set my timing forward 10 degrees. dont know how its done but it made my truck run a hell of a lot better.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 02:31 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR
my idle has been relatively high lately... would could be the cause of that? its idling around 1.2k
Have you tried adjusting the idle speed? It's the large, front-facing flathead screw near the top of the throttle body. Just screw it in when motor is hot to reduce idle speed. Spec is 800 rpm but 800-900 is okay - I set mine where it idles smoothest. If the screw bottoms out and it's still running, you have a vacuum leak, or perhaps someone adjusted the throttle stop position (which is factory-set and should never be touched), or something is preventing the throttle from closing fully, or your cold idle bypass valve is stuck open.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 02:39 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Ric's 91
I need a new exhaust
Heh, go for it. if you're willing to make the investment. could always go with a cat back. but I can guarantee the gains are much better with headers.

Originally Posted by Grunnen
have you done your timing belt recently?

i had a low idle and my neighbor who is a mechanic came over and set my timing forward 10 degrees. dont know how its done but it made my truck run a hell of a lot better.
Timing belt is UNKNOWN on my truck. there is no sticker, or anything suggesting that its even been changed... That probably could be it.

Originally Posted by sb5walker
Have you tried adjusting the idle speed? It's the large, front-facing flathead screw near the top of the throttle body. Just screw it in when motor is hot to reduce idle speed. Spec is 800 rpm but 800-900 is okay - I set mine where it idles smoothest. If the screw bottoms out and it's still running, you have a vacuum leak, or perhaps someone adjusted the throttle stop position (which is factory-set and should never be touched), or something is preventing the throttle from closing fully, or your cold idle bypass valve is stuck open.
Vacuum leak... hmm I detached the vacuum hoses on the left side of the engine to fit the header in. but I INSURED I put them all back on. I even marked them off to remember where they go. Im 100% confident that that couldn't be it...


This is all a mystery to me right now... its been pretty chilly in NOR CAL lately... so morning starts are always high. but i'll pay more attention to it at a stop light more often. it seems fine. its running exactly how it was before I did the headers, if not better. I'll run a diagnostic on it... never done it before but eh, gotta start somewhere. I'll letcha all know what it is.
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