As I said "disregarding any problem with wheel openings".

We don't mount 35x12.50's on any wider wheels than we mount 33x12.50's on and that is 7" or 8" wide wheels.
I run 35x12.50's on 7" wide wheels on the TJ.
Anyone who wheels in the rocks (like we have here in sunny southern AZ) wouldn't want to run 12.50's on anything wider than 8" anyway.
So, the whole "wider wheel, wider turning arc", etc. isn't a worry here mate.

Some simply clearance work should fix the wheel well problem.
At any rate you have the same problem with a 4" suspension lift, unless you give up some upward flex. Now that just is silly for several reasons, not the least of which is the higher COG (wasted) because of one trying to keep the tires out of the wheel well openings



Fred

 

But, 8" wheel is wider than a stock 7" wheel. And typically, folks run less backspacing on those wheels, less backspacing makes the wheel stick out wider than stock. So go from a 7-8" wide wheel and a 4.75" to 3.75" backspacing and you are 2" wider than stock. Plus a 33x12.50 or 35x12.50 tires is wider than the typical 9.50" - 10.50" width on the stock tires, so at least 1" more per side, so that is now 3" wider than stock if you run a 12.50 wide tire on a 8" wide rim w/ 1" less than stock backspacing. Would have been nice if Toyota had centered the front wheels in the wheel well opening, but they didn't.

And simple clearancing works to a point, flatten the standing seam at the back of the wheel well is good for a little, but you soon hit the firewall. Sure, you can hammer that back a little or get creative and cut it out and tub that point. But then just behind the firewall is one of the body mount brackets. Moving/modifying that is work, too.

And here I have stock wheels, 33x9.50 wide tires with a 3.5" lift on my '85 (granted not IFS) and no steering at all and rubbing:



But yes, don't turn the front wheels, don't go off-road and you'll be fine

 

thats no fun!!!

 

Fred and Roger - read the OP again.

He's asking about 35x10.50-15, which DRAMATICALLY minimizes the fit issues you have brought up, especially if you keep the stock backspacing

 

so do you think i could fit 35x12.5 or not with the backspacing issue? if that doesnt work what about 35x10.5s it seems like a couple of people have fit 35x12.5s without any rubbing but if thats the case why would they say that the biggest you could go is with 33s?

 

As stated in the first reply by 4crawler, the width of the tire will cause the rubbing in the front, and as you step up sizes, it will come sooner than you think,

The reason why the lift kit companies say that you can only run 33 inch tires is because most tire companies start making thier 33's in 12.50 inches wide,

If you bought a kit and it said that you could run 35's, and then you get 35x12.50's and they rub, you might be inclined to complain/post on forums or even file a lawsuit etc., so they tell you that 33's will fit just fine and you go put 33's on and they fit and everyone is happy (even though you might have been able to fit 35x10.50's without rubbing)

And another factor is the differences in stated height/width and actual, all manufacturers are a little different, a 35inch BFG could fit when a Mickey Thompson wont. I doubt that the suspension companies are going to dig through all the different companies/sizes to come up with a list of what will fit and what wont, it would be nice, but that would only add to the research costs for lift kits

 

Oh, and here is a pic of toyofast's rig, running 35x10.50's with no lift:



Don't know if that link will work, it's that only pic of his truck I could find, he hasn't been on here in like a year and a half, anybody else have pics of his truck?

 

Looks like all the pictures have timed out, but here's the threads

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...3rd-gen-74326/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-5-diff-83777/