www.offroadsolutions.com

 

I said mileage wasnt important because you would rebuild it.

Economically speaking say you rebuilt and significantly refreshed alot of things in the truck (you do the work)--Say 7-9k...and that is being high. now you have a great truck and it was way cheaper than the $400 month payment for 4-6 years. Look--> 400 month x 12 months equals the rebuild, then the next year you equal your other repairs/upgrades. Two year payment plan instead of 4-6.

 

I can see what you are saying... but if you plan to swap a 3.4 at some point, why not do it before the 3.0 blows? Reason being, a blown 3.0 is worth almost nothing, a running 3.0 is worth $650 easy... maybe closer to a grand if in good condition. That's a big reduction in the price of a swap, at least it was for me. Obviously there are plenty of people who won't consider a swap and would rather just drop in a working 3.0. I got a lot of interest in mine once posted on Craig's List.

By the way, I sold my 3.0 easily even without oilpan or sender as I used that on the 3.4.

Mileage isn't completely unimportant, but I for one felt that if I did swap in a 3.4 mileage wasn't my number one concern. I wanted the 3.4 to be functional and run well. I plan (when the time comes) to rebuild the 3.4 but I won't mind that as much as I feel the 3.4 motor is worth the time and effort to work on as it is a better motor overall. Plus, seeing I had 230,000 on my 3.0, a 3.4 with around 100,000 miles was a huge drop for me.

There might also be an argument that since the 3.4 is a better design than the 3.0 one might have less reliability concerns as the mileage gets higher.

The wiring is the hardest part. If you are nervous about it, get the harness from ORS. Around $750 or so. But, if you take your time and download the specific wiring diagrams for your vehicle and the donor it really isn't that bad.

I'd suggest getting a local hydraulic shop to make a PS line for you.

The 3.0 fuel line from the vehicle will mate perfectly to the 3.4 fuels lines on the motor... no extensions or adapters needed.

ORS products will simplify the swap considerably, but add so much to the cost I just couldn't justify it. I would not have done the swap if I thought my total bill was gong to be $5000. I'd get a newer 4Runner with the 3.4 installed before I started to consider such an expense.

But... I of course have done some other heavy modifications to my 4Runner and the swap for well under $2000 made perfect sense.

 

My thoughts with Molly's rig exactly. When you have several thousand dollars in SAS, rear leaf conversion, armor, etc it makes more sense to keep what you got than to take a hit selling a non-running vehicle and starting over.

 

I, too, did most of the work myself. My brother gave me a hand when I needed it. My kids even pitched in. But most of it was done by me.

The wiring is a matter of cross referencing what the new harness does vs. the old harness. You've got to swap about 30 wires, give or take. The rest of it isn't that bad.

 

Talked to a local shop today about this. They are starting their first 3.0 -> 3.4 swap for a guy and quoted him $2000. They cut a deal since the customer was willing to have them do the work around the other urgent work that comes in day to day. That's with the customer bringing in all the parts, of course. I bet the bill runs over that. I will check back with them in a few weeks and try to see how it went. The only concerns he expressed to me were cali smog stuff and wiring.

Most encouraging was the younger guy working there. I bet he reads yotatech. Yeah, you! He looked excited to start the job, eyes lit up as bossman was talking about it. Good times, good times.

 

instead of a motor swap invest in a lower set of gears to go flying up the freeways

 

And just how do you propose he do that with a blown 3.0?

The whole point of this thread is for engine options for his BLOWN 3.0l. Read the thread man!

 

got a 93 4runner with a 3.0 and im sick and tired of having to floor it up hills on the interstate to hold 70mph and all that good stuff
my 3.0 has about 300,000 miles on it but it still runs pretty strong


not blown, albeit with 300k on the clock, its almost done for...id say swap before it blows and sell the engine running for whatever you can, will help with the expense of the swap some.

 

and yet, in another thread you're recommending 4.88's with 35's?

 

why would it cost $2000 to swap an engine if most of you guys say its pretty damn easy? sure i could understand it a slightly lengthy process, but i mean come on, why does it have to be so expensive? i think a "G" would be more in my book as far as cost of labor to do a swap.

but i am not sure about this, still on the see saw. im poor, but could definately save up in the summer to fund my 3.4. as far as working in a garage, i have no garage to work in. so that would be hard. i know my buddy has a garage, but i hate bringing my problems and work to his place. i need to find someone who could swap me for cheap, or even someone who wants to do it, and have me lend a hand. of coarse if i do get the 3.4 i have to want to replace all those goodies, and make it nice and clean. i would hate to see a dirty engine go into my nice 4runner. so pretty much that is where i stand.

ps. if you wanna make some money, and help me with my swap let me know and i will drive to YOU! help a poor college yotatecher out! any takers? lol.

 

sorry the response is kinda late ive got 31s with stock gearing but hopefully at the end of march the 31s will be 35s what gearing would you recommend me go to with 35s and stock (incase i dont get the lift)

 

I'm selling my 98 with a 5 speed. I'll throw in the 3.4L for free and take your 93 as a partial trade.

 

You might have 4.56, which is OK up to 33's. For 35's, I would go 5.29, and it won't be too bad with 33's. Will be a little tachy with 31's, but better to rev these motors than lug them.

If you have 4.10's, I would put 4.88 in - great compromise if you're undecided on tire size.

 

Garage? We don't need no stinkin' garage!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...warning-93642/












































Truth be told, though - I'd just about give up my left *** to have one!!

 

thanks, is there anyway to know for sure what gearing i have its a 5 speed if that helps at all...

 

Look for the axle/ tranny code on your door jamb.

Should be something like this: G254/R150F

First part is your axle code, second is the tranny.

Axle code goes like this...

First position: Diameter of ring gear.
It's probably a F or a G.
F= 7.5"
G= 8"

Second and third position are your ratio. Most likely one of the following:
07= 3.9
29= 4.10
28= 4.30
25= 4.56
14= 4.875


Final position is the number of pinions in the carrier.
2= 2 pinions
4= 4 pinions

So, my 4Runner came with a 8" ring gear, 4.56 ratio and 4 pinion. My 4Runner also came equipped with a R150 transmission.

 

Do you have any diagrams or anything for the wiring you did? If so please share it would be greatly appreciated.