Hello,

I looked everywhere I could, but I cannot find the answer.

My 3.0 starts, revs up to 3000 rpms then dies. It was working good the other day until I took off my Air Intake to fix a vacuum line problem that was giving me a high idle (2200 rpms) from when I did my engine swap.

I looked at the FSM and routed all the vacuum lines properly, but I have an extra one now that I have no idea where it goes. My vacuum lines are factory and this one has the *# on it and is about 10" long.

Are there vacuum lines behind the Air Intake that are not on the diagram? I have the TVV to the canister then to the TB hooked up, but this one is a mystery to me.

Any help with the stalling and vacuum is appreciated. Are they connected?

Cheers!

Kevin

 

there is a vacuum port on the passenger side of the Intake (where all the vacuum lines go pretty much.) that has 3 ports on it..for 3 small vacuum lines.

i believe it goes on TOP...i don't think it matters honestly.

but when i rebuilt my 3vz, i taped and numbered all my lines and such, and that's where mine came off.

 

my 3vz is doing the stalling thing as well, and testing leads me to the AFM being fubarred....

go to the FSM and look up the testing procedures and test yours..very simple.

 

I have that one there (all 3 are being used) but his is another one...

 

Other than removing the air tube to check the spark plugs, I did not touch the AFM... But this is a 91... lol

 

Ohh, for to mention... no trouble codes are being read. When I enabled the code reading, I get a steady blink... weird.

 

well i didn't do anything to mine except move it from the engine compartment to the back seat of my 4runner..

before rebuild..it was fine, after rebuild...it's not? lol

well that is the only one i seen that has *# labeled on it, and i'm 99.9% sure that's where it goes.

 

of course mine is a '92.

 

Where does the other end of the *# go?

 

Measured my VAF this afternoon:

Terminals˟˟| My Figure | Toyota Spec
VS - e2 | 312 | 200-600C) - Not sure what C) means
VC - e2 | 279 | 200-400C)
THA - e2 | 0 | 2-3k ohms @ 20 degrees C

Seems my THA - e2 is out of wack. Looking for a new(er) VAF right now.

Does the above support a new VAF?

 

Finally got a Code 24. Looks like the VAF will be replaced.

 

Replaced the VAF, but still no joy. The VAF was out of spec, and now I'm sure this was giving me the high idle. But I still cannot start the engine for more than 3 seconds before teh idle drops to 300 rpms then stalls.

Going to bypass the EGR today and test the cold start circut. Anyone else have any ideas?

Cheers!

Kevin

 

Crack in the intake plenum... ;(

Must have done something wrong when I reinstalled it..... crap where can I get one for a good price in Ontario Canada?

 

I'm having the same exact problem (Starts right up, goes to 3K, drops off and dies) after I just changed out the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and cleaned the air filter and connected the charcoal canister to the BVSV (wasn't connected and I failed emissions).

I didn't do anything to the AFM other than set it on the ground when i removed the intake tubing to do the drivers side plugs.

my plugs were gapped to .034 (I know stock is .032, but i read .034 was doing better fuel mileage). They're NGK V-Power

Cap and Rotor are just AutoZone special as are the wires.

Air filter is K&N but I didn't do anything with that other than smack it on the ground a couple of times to knock off the big chunks.

2 hours ago the truck was running great...


Could that plug gap be the culprit? Everything else is done normal. Wires are all back on the correct spots. I made sure I heard all of them "click" onto the plugs. I rechecked all that.

I unplugged the AFM at the clip (NOT the screws - did that in my MR2 before.. haha).

Don't have a multimeter to test the AFM, but I didn't do anything to it, i don't see how it would have gone bad on me.

I'm stumped.

 

For anyone else that might have a similar problem, this is what fixed mine.


Apparently there's a little elbow under the air cleaner tube (before it gets to the AFM) and mine didn't line up right and there was a huge gap of un-metered air coming in through there.

Plugged it back up and we're back to kosher.

 

You were both describing exactly what happens when you get un-metered air in the intake. Usually a crack in one of the intake hoses, or a leak around the junction.

 

this post has a source in Cananda (link is the toyota diesel thread)
one of the other sources might work out for you too, hope it helps;

edit: remembered a couple of members from ontario, maybe send them a PM, they might know some local sources:
89 Frunner:
https://www.yotatech.com/members/62565.html
michael1963:
https://www.yotatech.com/members/62594.html
one of the Mods is also from Ontario: Aviator
https://www.yotatech.com/members/1581.html

hope this helps