3.0 Radiator Recommendations
#1
3.0 Radiator Recommendations
Hey all, finishing up last few things for my 3.0 rebuild coming together in the next few weeks. I need a new radiator. Current one leaks and is pretty well clogged. PO's were serious freaks for grey RTV, its everywhere.
Before I pull the trigger on a new one does anyone have any input on brands they've used for replacements?
All I know from reading other posts is that since I have an automatic, I can't let the motor run too cold; it wont be able to get fully warmed up. People like some brands of all aluminum/copper rads but some have had terrible experiences. Seems like theres no right answer here so I am most likely going to throw in a standard replacement from oreilly or summit and call it a day. I was looking at a mishimoto for 199, an OSC for 129, and a Murray for 214. Napa has one on their site with no name, Part#NRC NR1190B, runs 190.
Does anybody have overwhelming opinions on these rads? Known brands to avoid?
For what its worth, has anyone taken theirs to a radiator shop to get cleaned out? How much does that usually cost?
Before I pull the trigger on a new one does anyone have any input on brands they've used for replacements?
All I know from reading other posts is that since I have an automatic, I can't let the motor run too cold; it wont be able to get fully warmed up. People like some brands of all aluminum/copper rads but some have had terrible experiences. Seems like theres no right answer here so I am most likely going to throw in a standard replacement from oreilly or summit and call it a day. I was looking at a mishimoto for 199, an OSC for 129, and a Murray for 214. Napa has one on their site with no name, Part#NRC NR1190B, runs 190.
Does anybody have overwhelming opinions on these rads? Known brands to avoid?
For what its worth, has anyone taken theirs to a radiator shop to get cleaned out? How much does that usually cost?
#2
I think the overall quality in the aftermarket radiators with plastic tanks isn't great. but they are much less expensive.
The all-metal radiators, like the one CSF offers, would be much less prone to issues.
When a metal radiator develops a leak it's usually pretty small. Plastic tank radiators will often leak around the crimping strip that holds the tank onto the core, but the catastrophic failure is when the plastic tank actually cracks. When that happens it's a lot harder to limp home.
Doing a rod-out is when both top and bottom metal tanks are removed and thin metal strips (imagine 2foot long feeler gauges) are runs down the passages to clean, then the tanks soldered back on. Depending on where your current radiator is leaking, and its overall condition, this is a possibility if you can find a radiator shop that still does this.
The all-metal radiators, like the one CSF offers, would be much less prone to issues.
When a metal radiator develops a leak it's usually pretty small. Plastic tank radiators will often leak around the crimping strip that holds the tank onto the core, but the catastrophic failure is when the plastic tank actually cracks. When that happens it's a lot harder to limp home.
Doing a rod-out is when both top and bottom metal tanks are removed and thin metal strips (imagine 2foot long feeler gauges) are runs down the passages to clean, then the tanks soldered back on. Depending on where your current radiator is leaking, and its overall condition, this is a possibility if you can find a radiator shop that still does this.
Last edited by Jimkola; Jun 5, 2025 at 08:15 AM.
#3
In to recommend NOT going cheap on a plastic run of the mill replacement, as Jimkola stated you can probably get it fixed at a radiator shop or get a good non plastic replacement
I regret the last 2? plastic ones I bought and I’m expecting the one I have now to take a poo on my face any day, I hate them!!! My next radiator won’t be looking at my pocket book
Let us know what you end up doing.
I regret the last 2? plastic ones I bought and I’m expecting the one I have now to take a poo on my face any day, I hate them!!! My next radiator won’t be looking at my pocket book
Let us know what you end up doing.
#4
I'm a fan of copper/brass radiators and fortunate enough to still have a radiator shop in town that can rod out or re-core them. They can also get just about anything or even build one. More expensive than some and less than others. It's worth it to check with a radiator shop in your area if you have one.
I've had my 52 Ford rodded out twice over the years and my 88 Toyota pickup twice as well. Even though I maintain my systems the tubes get plugged over time. I asked why it still happens with the way I keep distilled water and good antifreeze with proper changes. I was told no matter what the iron block and the aluminum castings will "shed" particles even with proper maintenance.
Buy a good one if you can.
I've had my 52 Ford rodded out twice over the years and my 88 Toyota pickup twice as well. Even though I maintain my systems the tubes get plugged over time. I asked why it still happens with the way I keep distilled water and good antifreeze with proper changes. I was told no matter what the iron block and the aluminum castings will "shed" particles even with proper maintenance.
Buy a good one if you can.
#5
Just ordered that CSF radiator. Copper/aluminum. I’m imagining it will do a he’ll of a lot better than the one I had prior.
I would be all for getting it rodded out and leaky end tank seals replaced if it wasn’t SO full of rust and rtv from PO. Lots of bent fins and pretty nasty/stained looking anyways.
Having a clean transmission cooler will be a good plus I think too.
Rockauto has the best price I could find right now, shipped for just under $210. Money well spent I believe.
I would be all for getting it rodded out and leaky end tank seals replaced if it wasn’t SO full of rust and rtv from PO. Lots of bent fins and pretty nasty/stained looking anyways.
Having a clean transmission cooler will be a good plus I think too.
Rockauto has the best price I could find right now, shipped for just under $210. Money well spent I believe.
#6
Excellent!! I think the CSF will be on my list eventually, I got a different driver so my truck doesn’t move much anymore, still want to get rid of the plastic one at some point. Anyway glad you didn’t get a plastic one
#7
A plastic radiator would be a massive disservice to the brand new rebuilt 3.0 I’m dropping in this runner. She ran like a Swiss watch even with piston slap before so I can’t wait to see what she can do with an honestly cool radiator.
Huge plus to the CSF is that it’s a 3 core. I believe the oem was 2? I could be wrong there though. 3.0 loves to overheat in the California summer.
Huge plus to the CSF is that it’s a 3 core. I believe the oem was 2? I could be wrong there though. 3.0 loves to overheat in the California summer.
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#8
I’m very disappointed in myself for my purchase of the last two, I always try to go OE but if I remember back when my original took a poo the Toyota one was 700? Hell I don’t know but it was needed in the middle
of the week and the quickest way was to go plastic, lasted about a year, THEN knowing they are garbage for some unknown stupid reason on my part I was like eh maybe I just got a bad one, kinda the same thinking of my lady cheated on me she wouldn’t do it again and we all know where that gets ya
So to help my pride I try to at least steer members away from them
anyway I digress
Definitely report back if you notice a good difference in cooling
of the week and the quickest way was to go plastic, lasted about a year, THEN knowing they are garbage for some unknown stupid reason on my part I was like eh maybe I just got a bad one, kinda the same thinking of my lady cheated on me she wouldn’t do it again and we all know where that gets ya
So to help my pride I try to at least steer members away from them
anyway I digress
Definitely report back if you notice a good difference in cooling
Last edited by Discombobulated; Jun 8, 2025 at 01:36 PM.
#10
The CSF came in. Thank god my 200 dollar magnet came with this very useful radiator.
Looks like a great quality unit. Does have a drain plug but doesn't come with a cap, make sure you've got a good one.
Original radiator had a bolt on bracket for the hooks that sit in the front radiator support in the truck, this one is bolted on. One less set of hardware bits to lose. Brand new fully clean and clear trans fluid cooler will also probably do wonders for cooling that down too.
I will give one last update on this thread when I fit it in the truck.
Looks like a great quality unit. Does have a drain plug but doesn't come with a cap, make sure you've got a good one.
Original radiator had a bolt on bracket for the hooks that sit in the front radiator support in the truck, this one is bolted on. One less set of hardware bits to lose. Brand new fully clean and clear trans fluid cooler will also probably do wonders for cooling that down too.
I will give one last update on this thread when I fit it in the truck.
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