wsntme

EDIT: Truck is 92 V6 A/T with 241000 miles.

I've had this truck for just under 20k miles. I've been stranded one other time when the line to the cold start injector came off (under intake plenum). Other than that it's been doing "ok".

Today on the way to work, I got on the freeway (about 1 mile from house), drove down the ramp and as soon as I was up to speed it just died! I've had a fear that the tranny was on the way out so thought it was that but then realized it was the motor that had stopped! Coasted to the side of the freeway (backfiring).

I've got the truck back at home (tow strap FTW) and I have no idea what the problem could be! If i could get some suggestions on where to look and what to checkout that would be great! I did disconnect the cold start injector line again, to check for fuel pressure and it has plenty. Not sure how to check for spark....

Could it be internal? Like timing belt? How would I diagnose?


THanks for any help/suggestions!!

Video (HD) just states pretty much what I typed and it should show up after youtube processes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sEUzqJ49Fc

Team420

It could be the timing belt....pull the dist cap, and carnk the motor...if the rotor turns when you crank...its not the t-belt....
I would check for spark, and fuel....

Innervision

My first thought was the timing belt went. Check the dist like suggested above.

blake.nemitz

probably timing belt check to see if distributor is a little loose maybe it turned a little and the timing got out of wack causing no run and backfiring, set at 10 btd or 12 to 13 for a little extra juice but run better gas, i run mine at 17 with 91 we have good gas here in colorado and it is a new machine out pulls my brothers stock 4runner with new motor and mine has 35's and 200,000 miles with new bottom end. got a little off topic but i had the same thing happen to me in my jeep, all of the sudden no power cut out and popped out the tail pipe till i came to a stop, dist came loose, good luck let us know what you find

UKMyers

I leaking water pump leaks fluid right onto the timing belt and is a really bad deal on these engines due to it's location.

wsntme

Just got home. I'm going to go take a look and see if there is spark. I was on the phone with my buddy who's a toyota tech and he said if it were the Tbelt that it would crank over really fast....seems to crank slower than usual if anything.

I'll see what I can find and report back.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I agree with that.. if the belt was torn it would spin freely. However there's still a chance that it could have jumped timing. 2 things to do, pull a plug and check for spark. If your afm is bad it won't send the signal to the cor relay to power the fuel pump. It will still prime. You could always do a compression check.

wsntme

I just pulled a plug wire and let it ground to the chassis. Spark is there. I know fuel is getting to the rail because it'll come out the cold start injector hose but I dont know how to tell if it's actually getting to the cylinders....

Compression check will tell me.....? If the head gasket is bad or not?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

basically you need fuel, spark, compression to run. Its good diagnostic info. If your compression numbers are good, and you've got spark, spray some starter fluid into the intake.

wsntme

Guess I'll go borrow a compression tester from autozone. Never used one before but from what I gather, you just screw the tester in where a sparkplug goes, crank it, and see what compression is reached... yeah?

Thanks!

iamsuperbleeder

Wow, first off, good job on that post! Good explanation, and that video is an added bonus!


However, you're "pulling the line at the cold start injector" is not a fail-proof way of testing to see if the engine's getting fuel. You've established that you've got fuel pressure to the injectors, but the fuel injectors could simply be not firing.

My first thought would have been the EFI fuse, BUT, you said all the fuses are good.

The only other thing I can think of is the ECU


I'll agree that I don't think it's the timing belt, because of the way it sounds as it's turning over, BUT, I wouldn't rule it out...

Elton

pull off the timing cover

wsntme

I just went ahead a did as my buddy said and jumped the E1 to Te1 in the diagnostic port. When I turn the key to on the O/D light flashed continuously and the CE light flashes 4 times, pauses, then a 5th flash. Then it will repeat that pattern.

How can I find out what this means?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

pull all the plugs and label the plugs. Insert the tester, and disconnect the wires at the coil so its not powered. Crank the engine over for 4-5 seconds and record your findings.

search for codes

iamsuperbleeder

code 41 is a TPS code

if that were bad, it wouldn't cause it to not start

BUT, it's flashing stored codes, so you've established it's not the ECU

iamsuperbleeder

actually, wait...

ECM (or ECU as I called it ) is on the list of probable causes...

wsntme

So the TPS sensor cannot be the culprit? Why would I have never seen the CEL on before? Could that code have been there for a long time and not had the light come on?

It seems to me that these issues would have to be related unless that code has just been hiding in there waiting for someone to look for it...

wsntme

Thanks!

iamsuperbleeder

You can completely unplug the TPS and it'll run; not very efficiently, but it'll run

BUT, I don't know if it could go bad to the point of making it to where the engine will not run at all if it's plugged in?

Easy to test though; unplug it and see if it starts

wsntme

Unplugged it. Still no go. Ahhh just wishing ever simple thing I've tried will get it started....sometimes I hate vehicles!