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OK so I replace the fuel pump last year while the bed was off. When the fp job was done we started the truck everyone in the shop clapped. Fast forward 1.5 yrs the bed is on and the trucks ready to come home. Only issue is I cant get it started. It rumbles with ether spray. When I bypass the fuel pump diagnostic connector I dont hear or feel the pump running. But when I cracked the fuel line gas comes flooding out.. Question is can the motor suck gas from the tank while being cranked or the pump is working sometimes? Heading over there today to poke on it. Its easier when no ones around
It sat for a year and a half, drain the tank and try fresh fuel what's in there now is garbage and may have already gummed up the sock, the filter or injectors
There is a tattle tale screw, located on the front of the fuel rail is the pulse damper when the fuel pump is running the screw will stick out "proud of the housing".. It doesn't tell you the quality of the pump (psi, volume) but at least indicates it turned on.
And yes a bad fuel pump can be intermittent on.
Hey thanks for the reply. I was able to spend some time today with it. Im not getting power to the fuel pump, with the ignition or bypass. Any thoughts?
Checked for power at the diagnostics port? Yes it was hot, it powers the relay
Checked for continuity to the tank from the diagnostics port? No will do.
Checked the fuses? Yes
just to be clear the diagnostics port doesn't power any relay the line to the fuel tank assembly ties in down stream of the COR and the wire is a straight run to the tank side wiring.
just to be clear the diagnostics port doesn't power any relay the line to the fuel tank assembly ties in down stream of the COR and the wire is a straight run to the tank side wiring.
Hello, I finally got the truck home via flat bed tow truck I was able to check the fp connector ohms reading is 6.9? also I cant get fuel to the banjo fitting on the TB any more. It also wont rumble with starting fluid either as it used to a few days ago. I checked for spark and yes it sparked. Does anyone know what the ohms shoud read when I check it at the plug coming out of the tank?
Start voltage testing, it should start and run on spray as long as your spraying it and it has spark and compression (need the basics suck-squish-bang-blow), start at the battery posts, check on the cable lugs and all the way to interior fuse panel and then to the ECU.. Idle/empty vehicles are rodent magnets, perhaps you have wire damage.
Ensure the battery is fully charged. Tell us the voltage at the battery terminals/post and any place that tests less than battery minus 0.2 volts.
Check the ignition timing, while cranking the engine over..
Start voltage testing, it should start and run on spray as long as your spraying it and it has spark and compression (need the basics suck-squish-bang-blow), start at the battery posts, check on the cable lugs and all the way to interior fuse panel and then to the ECU.. Idle/empty vehicles are rodent magnets, perhaps you have wire damage.
Ensure the battery is fully charged. Tell us the voltage at the battery terminals/post and any place that tests less than battery minus 0.2 volts.
Check the ignition timing, while cranking the engine over..
I bought a COR from Orielys a few days ago and installed it. Before that I was getting fuel to the tb. So I thought well lets put the old relay in and that got me fuel back to the tb and its rumbling when I spray ether again! I had an old ecu in storage busted that out and got the same results rumble with starting fluid and gas to the tb, I cracked the banjo and fuel comes flooding out. Any suggestions where to go now would be great. Thanks gang!
Well for a start you should say something about changing out parts like that COR, keeping us updated on what you've done is an important part of this text based back and forth thing. Remember we are not there and rely on you being as detailed as possible regarding what you do, hear, see and smell...
Remember there is a screw on the front of the fuel rail that tells you if there is fuel pressure, no need to loosen a crush washer connection and risk a leak. It's a big fire hazard to reuse these, this puts you the truck other drivers and first responder's in harms way unnessicarily..
Check for injector activation (clicking) with a stethoscope. Check for injector pulses, some noid lights work for this but a 1k ohm resistor and led are all you need.
Yes I should of mention the new relay I honestly was checking it off as one less issue thanks O'Reilly!
I looked for the screw in the fuel rail I cant find it. Ill google it after this. Luckly those crush washers are easy to get.
Ill test the injectors today. Keep you posted. Thanks!
O'Reilly's gives different prices in different "markets," and I live in one of the highest priced markets. But online it pulls up two choices: 25-0371 $117 and RY696 $138. Are you sure you got the correct relay? Should I have you do my shopping at O'Reilly's? (I'll split the $70 price difference with you!)
More seriously, you mentioned that your truck DIDN'T work with the new relay, and with the old one it went back to sorta worked. Who knows, maybe you have a bad connector, and every time you wiggle it, it changes state. Replacing parts without testing them leaves you with never knowing just what is causing the problem.
I thinking they sold me the wrong relay 0172? If I type in 1986 toyota pickup fuel pump the one they sold me comes up. Not the same you posted tho. I did some voltage test to the fp without the jumper Im getting only 10v+ when cranking, this could be a problem but with the jumper I get 12v+ when cracking or not which would be enough to pump that sucker. I was thinking about draining some gas see how it smells. Its been in there over a year.
Last edited by spideynut; 10-23-2018 at 12:00 AM.
Reason: more info
Wow. Your $47 25-0172 (according to O'Reilly) does fit your '86, but not my '94. The $117 25-0371 claims to fit mine, but not yours. But they clearly have the same connector!! (and same amp spec.)
So you're probably good. Still, I would use a multimeter to check the pinouts. http://web.archive.org/web/201210160...38circuito.pdf This manual is for a '93, but I'm going to guess that they are the SAME part, despite the different model numbers and wildly different prices. (And while you're at it, use your multimeter on the old COR too.)
So I sucked some gas out of the tank in the big jar the small jar is fresh gas. The old gas smells less potent but still smells like gas. Im thinking its bad although I dont really know what gas should like. haha
Last edited by spideynut; 10-23-2018 at 06:18 PM.
Reason: pic
After a bunch of testing relays and voltage and things being with in spec except for the fp. I decided to pull the tank.This is what I found. Keep in mind this fuel pump has zero miles. Water?
The piss colored fuel, and fuel pump sock is "varnished fuel" is no good...
It does look like piss!
Water in the fuel from the ethonal turns I to a nasty yellowish gel...
Yes Hawaii starting putting "up to" 10% ethenol awhile ago, weed wackers and chain saws dont like it at all.... Its super fustrating as I put that fp in less tha a year ago. everything looked peachy when we did it. The way the tank looks rust flakes at the bottom slushing around, Ive been shopping for a new one. On that note the only 19gal tank that matches my vin RN67 at rockauto has a maple leaf flag next to it. Rockauto explains what the flag means but I dont understand what they are saying. Any input? Heres a pic of the truck something a little easier on the eyes than that fp.....
09-23-2018, 01:12 PM
I was able to check the fp connector ohms reading is 6.9? also I cant get fuel to the banjo fitting on the TB any more. It also wont rumble with starting fluid either as it used to a few days ago. I checked for spark and yes it sparked. Does anyone know what the ohms shoud read when I check it at the plug coming out of the tank?
