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22re won't start hot

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Old 12-20-2010, 12:00 PM
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22re won't start hot

I've got a 22re 86 4runner. She won't start hot, (running temp), until I wait 1-2 minutes after shutoff to try again. It acts like the starter has a hard time rotating the crank if I try to start it warm (right after shutoff). The starter turns to a point, seizes or stops, then rotates a full crank then stops, and continued. I just replaced the timing chain, its timed correctly, runs great after a cold start, and starts right up no problem cold. This has been happening for a year or so now, and after I replaced the timing chain it has gotten worse. Also, there is a wire with some kind of sensor coming out of the t-stat housing...wondering what that is. Thanks in advance, if anyone can point to a posting I might have missed pertaining to this issue that'd be great.
Old 12-20-2010, 01:14 PM
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Also, when at idle, and i press the brake hard, she tries to die. Which makes me think a its a problem with a fuel line vaacum hose of some sort. I did pull the engine when I did the timing chain and a bunch of ghaskets, maybe I reconnected the wrong hose somewhere. :|
Old 01-02-2011, 05:06 PM
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bump! im having the exact problem
Old 01-02-2011, 05:16 PM
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If the idle drops significantly when depressing the brake pedal with the engine running, you my friend have a vacuum leak i believe.

or a hose in the wrong place?
Old 01-02-2011, 07:21 PM
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Yes Vacuum Leak is very possible. Check your vacuum diagram here,http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...sion/layou.pdf, also, Timing could be off, and could have a dirty airfilter. Those would make it hard to start when hot temp too.
Old 01-02-2011, 08:04 PM
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I've been reading all day on this and have decided i'm gunna pull the tb off tomorrow and clean it along with the iac and tps and vacuum ports. Air filter is new, fuel filter is new, good premium gas with injector cleaner added, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, newish blaster coil. I'm also going to take the cold start injector out and clean it. I'll update tomorrow night. Thanks again for helping out, this seems to be common but the fix seems to vary dramatically between trucks.
Old 01-10-2011, 05:54 PM
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Ok, so I haven't had a computer for a while now...I did get the problem fixed, basically, when I did the timing on it, and it ran terribly (but, mind you, it ran), i had the distro 180'd somehow, off number 2 or 3, so that it ran with massive misfires. That was my fault. I retimed the motor, found tdc etc on 1, now it runs like a champ, and only rpm-drops when i press the brake at cold idle... the booster is, in fact, hooked up properly. Please try to remember, that I am a noob with this kind of thing, so I really don't know all the technical terms. I also had the hoses mixed up that were off the coal canister line. Thank you vacuum diagrams. All i can say is, if you messed with the timing somehow recently, check that, then the vacuum lines, and it never hurt anyone to clean the TB. Mine was a combination of the first two. Haha. and the mass airflow sensor never hurt to be checked to make sure that it was plugged in either!

I do have a miss, same as before I did the timing chain..it's infrequent and random, usually in the 2-3 thou R's range in 3 and 4 gears...Wondering if it is a electrical line loose somewhere? Just recently I've read that its becoming a common problem on 80's yotas...?
And thank you all for posting! Much appreciated from a young buck new to all this mechanical crap, I mean good stuff.

Last edited by Runnerguy187; 01-10-2011 at 06:02 PM.
Old 01-10-2011, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by razed
press the brake pedal an dthe engine runns different...
... logic says its something around the brake pedal.
What could that be?
Brake booster maybe?
nah, too obvious.
...I thought so too, except there is only one line out of the booster. /fail.
Happened to be one of the few lines i labeled. >.<
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