Hey guys -

So my '91 Pickup with a 22RE is probably in need of new valve seals. I've been burning quite a bit of oil but I have good compression across all four cylinders (155-165 across the 4) so I'm assuming its the valve seals. I have a few questions that I would love your guys' expertise with:

1. How hard is this job? I've replaced the timing chain / guides / water pump already on this engine and while I took longer than I wanted, I got it done pretty easily.
2. I've read that this can either be done head on or head off - some people swear that head off is the only way to do it properly. Any comments on this?
3. If I do need to take the head off, is there a good, concise DIY to removing the head? I can't seem to find one with both good pics and good explanations. If it makes it easier, my truck does not have A/C or P/S which should make it easier.
4. Should I replace the valves or just lap them when I do this job?
5. Anything else I should look at for the oil consumption issue?

Thanks!

 

#1, assuming you mean valve seals, if you have a big ass press ( not really that big,..) It's just another bushing.

#2, you aren't getting those bushings out the top end without some miracle.

#3, can you Google cause there are shed loads of threads here about about changing head gaskets. Having AC or PS is completely not relevant you can pull the engine and leave both of these systems sealed by just setting the pumps go the side.

#4, leak down test or just pull the head and take it to the machinist. They will pressure test the it and fix (If needed) the valve geometry. There are three precision angles here your not likely to replicate with a diy drill and honing goo.

#5, leak down test. Is it a valve or ring issue..

 

Not sure what Co_94_PU is talking about using a press for. The valve seals are easily removed with a pair of pliers and tapped on with a small socket and a light hammer.

I say easy, but that's assuming the head is off. The rocker assembly must come off to access the valve keepers and retainers. On a 22RE the rocker assembly is held down by the head bolts. I would not risk removing the head bolts and not removing the head and replacing the gasket. Some people have claimed to have done it successfully, but it seems like a dumb risk to take.

You can leave the lower intake manifold and exhaust manifold attached to the head to save a bit of time and effort. It'll just be heavier to lift out of the engine bay.

I have videos on YouTube showing how to replace the timing chain which to do properly requires pulling the head. Those videos should help you see what you're up against. Search How to Replace 22RE Timing Chain. It's by TheAlexManVideos.

Since the head will be off, and the valve retainers and springs removed, you might as well lap the valves while you're there. A valve job might be nice but unless the sealing area of the valve or seat is really worn, I wouldn't bother.

Leak down would help you figure out where you're losing compression, but neither the oil rings nor the valve seals have much to do with compression. Plus your compression numbers are pretty good.

 

The tell-tale sign of bad valve seals is oil consumption, typically oil smoke when you first start the vehicle. Why? Because while shut off, oil has dripped past the seal and into the cylinder. You will also see oil smoke on high vacuum situation, such as compression braking.

Many 4 cylinders you would not have to remove the head, just use compressed air or nylon rope in the cylinder to hold the valves up and work from above.But for the reasons Alex mentioned, that’s not going to work on a 22re.

you didn’t mention the mileage but from your comp numbers it seems your lower end is good. You can easily change the seals yourself once the head is off but a machinist would do more thorough checks, cracks, valve guides, valve seats, lap or replace as necessary, warpage.

 

Oh, no way! So cool to (virtually) meet you. I used your timing chain videos constantly when I did that job back in January. Super helpful to see someone both explain AND show how things are done. A bunch of videos I've found show one or the other, but yours were way better.

So if I were to do it the way you mention it, I would just disconnect the exhaust manifold from the exhaust and then remove up the upper manifold? Would I need to remove the fuel rail? Would I be able to lift out myself or would I helped be best?

 

I think I've come to accept that I'm going to remove the head and do the HG at the same time. The truck has 197k on the odometer but I've only owned it since 192k. It burns about a quart of oil per 500 miles.

 

Good comments above.
I agree that leaking valve stem seals would primarily cause smoke on start up. It would be rather unusual for valve stem seals to be responsible for significant oil use. A qt. every 500 is more consistent with oil rings.
You could try running Rislone through the engine and see if you can free up the stuck oil rings. I've seen it do great things, along with no difference at all. Just depends.
Before taking apart a leak down test is a great idea. Get all the numbers you can before the head is off. even if you already made up your mind to rebuild the engine you still want to know where to focus you attention and locate the failure.

 

Is this the product you are referring to? Rislone

Just replace a quart of oil with Rislone instead? Probably worth a shot before tackling a bigger job. Yeah its weird - I replaced the PCV valve and grommet because it was all clogged up and the grommet was basically gone and then for about 1000 miles it barely burned any and then recently it started consuming it again. Valve seals seem easier than a full rebuild, but either way I love this truck and I'd like to do the work myself if possible. Mostly because I enjoy it but also because I live in California and labor prices are ridiculous.

 

So I pulled a spark plug this morning to see how they look. Plugs have about 5k miles on them. Does this scream oil consumption to you guys? My neighbor's Chevy Avalanche was burning oil and I pulled his plugs and they looked wayyyyyy worse than these but I imagine those were on there longer.

 

That’s it. I’d recommend a fresh oil and filter change, then add the Rislone in with the new oil. Then just drive normally, keeping a eye on oil level. Works best if you do longer drives, as opposed to short-hop errands.
after a few thousand miles change out the oil and filter. Then monitor. Sometimes a second application will offer additional benefit.

those plugs don’t look bad.

 

the valve seals are a breeze to do even with the wrong tools... I would defeinatly take the head off and stuff a rag in the cumbustion chanmber when you take the valve springs off. the seals just yank off and the new ones click back into place. Use a straw (i think mcdonalds straws worked best when i did it) so you dont tear the seal when you put the valve back in.

 

Hey everyone quick update -

So yesterday I did an oil change and put in the Rislone treatment to see if that does anything. I did a valve adjustment since I don't know if its ever been done, although I doubt that will do anything about the oil consumption. I also pulled all the spark plugs since the first time I only pulled 2. I've attached a picture below. They all seem pretty clean to me - I'd love your guys' input as well. They've been on the truck for 5k miles and if its burnt multiple quarts of oil since then I'd imagine that they would be much more fouled, right? IDK - this truck is confusing.

 

As long as the plugs look consistent i would say burning oil evenly across 4 cylinders is better than fouling.
Mine look about the same and my truck uses oil with 193k miles on it. No worries.